Home maintenance tips for the spring
Although you have heard it many times, nothing could be more accurate than the old saying, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Preventive maintenance is the best way to keep your house in great shape, reduce the risk of unexpected repairs and maintain its value. Set aside time in the spring and fall to conduct a thorough examination of your home. You can do it all in one day, or spread it out over five weekends.
Start by making sure your home has curb appeal, then check the ventilation systems, control for moisture and pests, and finally conduct a home safety check.
Check the ventilation around your home
* Have a professional check your air conditioning system.
* Replace the filter now and again in three months.
* Check the caulking around doors and windows to make sure it is adequate.
* Install the screens on windows and doors.
* Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter.
Conduct a curb appeal inspection
* Make a quick inspection of the exterior of your home. Check the foundation for cracking, blocked vents and leaks.
* Observe the paint. If it is peeling, cracking, fading or blistering, you should repaint.
* Check the siding or brick. Crumbling brick or loose siding needs to be repaired.
* Clean off the deck and treat it with a protective finish if needed.
* Inspect driveways and walkways for safety hazards. Remove stains from concrete.
Protect against moisture and mold
* Check the caulking around kitchen and bathroom fixtures to make sure there are no leaks. Repair grout and caulk as needed.
* Inspect faucets and shower heads. Repair any leaks you find.
* Check water hoses on the washing machine, ice maker and dishwasher for cracks and bubbles. Replace if needed.
* Clean debris out of gutters and make sure downspouts are secure and direct water away from the foundation.
* Make sure there are no leaks in the roof.
* Trim shrubs and trees so that they clear the foundation, exterior walls and roof of the house. Shrubbery that is too close to the house can promote the growth of mildew, mold and algae during warmer weather.
* Examine the basement or crawlspace for the presence of mildew or mold. If mildew or mold is found, contact your county Extension office for information on controlling and preventing mold.
Get rid of the pests
* Clean leaves and trash out from under decks and porches.
* Remove debris from basement window wells.
* If you do not have termite service, have a professional termite inspection. Follow up on any recommendations. It will save you money in the long run.
* Check the attic for evidence of leaks, condensation and vermin.
Keep your home safe
* Replace the batteries in all of the smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms. If you don’t have smoke detectors, install them.
* Make sure your fire extinguishers are fully charged. Recharge if needed or purchase one if you do not currently own one.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Going Green with Air Conditioning Pays
The cooldown: Energy-efficient air conditioners are easier on climate and your wallet
A true eco champ would suffer through this summer's sweltering heat in the name of conserving energy. But let's face it, most of us just don’t want to suffer the sweat. If you need to cool down, but can’t stand to contribute to the earth heating up, consider purchasing a newer, energy efficient unit.
If the past few years are any indication, this summer isn’t likely to be a cool one. 2007 tied with 1998 as Earth’s second-warmest year in a century, according to NASA, which ranks 2005 as number one. And the eight warmest years have all occurred in the past decade. April’s a good time to shop, as it’s still before summer’s first heat wave, which seems to come earlier each year and causes a run on the air conditioner dealers. By June there are fewer choices—and prices surge.
That said, if you care about the Earth and your budget, you’re right to be cautious about air conditioning, which, in summer, is responsible for all the electricity consumed in the US, according to the Rocky Mountain Institute. Our electricity still mostly comes from coal-burning power plants, and, lest anyone these days needs to be reminded, “the atmospheric buildup of CO2 and other greenhouse gases is largely the result of human activities, such as the burning of fossil fuels,” according to the EPA.
Here’s what to do.
Choose Energy-Star-rated models. Air conditioners bearing the EPA’s Energy Star label have to be at least 10% more efficient than conventional ones. There’s been a vast improvement in the past ten years, so it’s a good time to replace an older model, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, www.aceee.org. For a list of models, go to www.energystar.gov and click on Room ACs in the left-hand toolbar.
Consumer Reports recommends these Energy Star-rated models: Friedrich SS10L10-A ($700, EER: 12; 800-541-6645); GE AGM06LH ($180, EER: 10.7) and AGM08LH ($240, EER: 10.8; 800-626-2005); Frigidaire FAA067P7 ($150, EER: 10.7) and FAA087P7 ($180, EER: 10.8; 800-374-4432).
Turn off the AC when you go out or the weather’s cool, and keep your thermostat at 72 degrees or higher in warm weather. For every degree you turn it up, you’ll save 121 pounds of carbon emissions a year as well as reduce your electricity bill.
It’s tax time, and many states and utilities give tax credits of up to $75 for Energy Star rated air conditioners, and $1-3 for CLFs (hang onto those original sales receipts!) Check out what’s available in your state. Some states and utilities offer rebates for trade-ins of older units.
More energy-saving tips:
To ease the burden on your AC and electricity bill, close your blinds or curtains during peak sunlight/heat hours.
On a cold night or day with clean air, turn off AC and open your windows. Circulate fresh air into your house using fans.
Choose energy-efficient compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) and appliances (see list on Energy Star website) to reduce the amount of indoor waste heat produced by these devices.
Seal and caulk walls and windows to prevent cold-air leaks.
Relax! That also burns fewer calories (and generates less heat).
Now you can chill out without the guilt.
A true eco champ would suffer through this summer's sweltering heat in the name of conserving energy. But let's face it, most of us just don’t want to suffer the sweat. If you need to cool down, but can’t stand to contribute to the earth heating up, consider purchasing a newer, energy efficient unit.
If the past few years are any indication, this summer isn’t likely to be a cool one. 2007 tied with 1998 as Earth’s second-warmest year in a century, according to NASA, which ranks 2005 as number one. And the eight warmest years have all occurred in the past decade. April’s a good time to shop, as it’s still before summer’s first heat wave, which seems to come earlier each year and causes a run on the air conditioner dealers. By June there are fewer choices—and prices surge.
That said, if you care about the Earth and your budget, you’re right to be cautious about air conditioning, which, in summer, is responsible for all the electricity consumed in the US, according to the Rocky Mountain Institute. Our electricity still mostly comes from coal-burning power plants, and, lest anyone these days needs to be reminded, “the atmospheric buildup of CO2 and other greenhouse gases is largely the result of human activities, such as the burning of fossil fuels,” according to the EPA.
Here’s what to do.
Choose Energy-Star-rated models. Air conditioners bearing the EPA’s Energy Star label have to be at least 10% more efficient than conventional ones. There’s been a vast improvement in the past ten years, so it’s a good time to replace an older model, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, www.aceee.org. For a list of models, go to www.energystar.gov and click on Room ACs in the left-hand toolbar.
Consumer Reports recommends these Energy Star-rated models: Friedrich SS10L10-A ($700, EER: 12; 800-541-6645); GE AGM06LH ($180, EER: 10.7) and AGM08LH ($240, EER: 10.8; 800-626-2005); Frigidaire FAA067P7 ($150, EER: 10.7) and FAA087P7 ($180, EER: 10.8; 800-374-4432).
Turn off the AC when you go out or the weather’s cool, and keep your thermostat at 72 degrees or higher in warm weather. For every degree you turn it up, you’ll save 121 pounds of carbon emissions a year as well as reduce your electricity bill.
It’s tax time, and many states and utilities give tax credits of up to $75 for Energy Star rated air conditioners, and $1-3 for CLFs (hang onto those original sales receipts!) Check out what’s available in your state. Some states and utilities offer rebates for trade-ins of older units.
More energy-saving tips:
To ease the burden on your AC and electricity bill, close your blinds or curtains during peak sunlight/heat hours.
On a cold night or day with clean air, turn off AC and open your windows. Circulate fresh air into your house using fans.
Choose energy-efficient compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) and appliances (see list on Energy Star website) to reduce the amount of indoor waste heat produced by these devices.
Seal and caulk walls and windows to prevent cold-air leaks.
Relax! That also burns fewer calories (and generates less heat).
Now you can chill out without the guilt.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Air Conditioning Problems
The air conditioning in our new house doesn’t seem to work very well. What could be wrong ?
Problematic air-conditioning systems abound. According to a recent study, says Chris Green in Energy-Smart Homes (winter 2008, $ 8. 99, www. finehome building. com ), 95 percent of new air-conditioning installations fail in regard to operating efficiency, with more than 70 percent of systems improperly sized or installed.
Because air-conditioning systems integrate refrigeration, air distribution, and electronics, there are lots of opportunities for mistakes.
The top three reasons for poor air-conditioner performance are 1. Improper sizing (1. 5 to 2 times too large is common ).
2. Improper installation.
3. Poorly designed and installed duct systems. Heat naturally moves from a higher energy level (warm ) to a lower energy level (cool ). Heat that accumulates within a house will not leave on its own unless the heat sources (the sun, people, appliances ) are removed. Help comes in the form of air conditioning, which uses refrigeration combined with ventilation to push heat uphill, or move it outside, where it’s even warmer.
Residential air-conditioning systems are made up of indoor and outdoor units connected by a pair of pipes that circulate refrigerant in a loop. By manipulating pressure and temperature, the indoor unit absorbs heat by blowing warm indoor air over a cold coil. The heat is released to the outdoor unit, which houses a compressor (which compresses refrigerant and itself generates heat ) and a condenser coil and fan (which dissipates the heat to the outside ).
In addition to cooling, air conditioners serve another function: They dehumidify the air. In the same way that moisture condenses on the side of a cold soda can sitting outside on a hot day, air conditioners wring moisture from warm humid air as it is forced across the indoor unit’s cold evaporator coil. Once past the evaporator, cool dehumidified air is delivered to the rest of the house — unless there’s a problem. Approximately two-thirds of all residential air conditioners are too large. According to Bruce Harley, a heating, ventilating and air-conditioning consultant with Conservation Services Group in Westborough, Mass., oversize units will cool your house, but they’re not necessarily designed to run efficiently.
The first problem is that they dehumidify poorly. Oversize units satisfy the temperatures at the thermostat so quickly that only a little moisture has time to condense on the evaporator coil. This is known as short cycling, and it’s more of a problem in humid climates. If cycles are very short, moisture on the coil can evaporate back into the house before it drains away.
Second, air-conditioning units are least efficient when they start up. It can take 15 minutes to reach operating efficiency, so oversize units run more short cycles and more time is spent running in the least efficient part of the cycle. As a result they use more energy; costs to operate them run 20 percent to 30 percent higher than for a proper size system.
Finally, at an installed cost of around $ 1, 000 per ton, oversize systems cost more.
The right size system is not a rule-of-thumb amount derived from the square footage of a house. The most efficient way of calculating the proper size for a residential air-conditioning system is found in Air Conditioning Contractors of America’s Manual J — Residential Load Calculation by Hank Rutkowski. It’s a methodical approach to arrive at room-by-room cooling loads for sizing ducts and whole house systems.
Manual J takes into account solar-heat gains, which don’t peak in all rooms at the same time. It also includes the house’s orientation to the sun and shading, which greatly affect the cooling load as well as the insulation values of walls, ceilings and floors. Window types, locations and specifications as well as internal heat gains (people, lighting and appliances ) are figured in. Another reason for poorly performing systems is faulty installation — incorrect refrigerant levels, low airflow and poorly designed and installed duct systems.
Condenser units arrive from the factory with the correct amount of refrigerant for a given length of piping, usually 15 or 25 feet, to connect the indoor and outdoor units. Refrigerant levels often are wrong because the line length in the field can vary and technicians frequently don’t make adjustments according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
According to Armin Rudd of Boston-based Building Science Corp., if the levels are up to 20 percent low, there’s some loss of cooling. More than that causes an unacceptable loss of cooling along with frosting of the evaporator coil and eventual complete loss of cooling. If refrigerant levels are too high, there is again loss of cooling with possible damage to the compressor.
The speed and volume of air moving through air-conditioning systems is often incorrect, partly due to mismatched indoor and outdoor units, which occurs more often on retrofits than on new installations because only the exterior compressor / condenser unit typically is replaced. Also, airflow at the evaporator coil often is low because it usually isn’t tested, so no one actually knows what it is.
Fan speeds at the evaporator coil should be around 400 cubic feet per minute per ton of cooling capacity. Slightly lower fan speeds improve dehumidification.
Tied to airflow and directly affecting it are duct design and installation. Ducts are the least expensive part of the system and frequently are given short shrift. A properly designed duct system begins with determining the cooling load for each room (not based on square footage ) which can vary greatly. Duct runs need to be as short as possible and insulated, and should be installed within air-conditioned space. Ducts should also be sealed. Leaky ducts waste energy and might draw dust, spores or combustion gas from a gas appliance back into a house.
Problematic air-conditioning systems abound. According to a recent study, says Chris Green in Energy-Smart Homes (winter 2008, $ 8. 99, www. finehome building. com ), 95 percent of new air-conditioning installations fail in regard to operating efficiency, with more than 70 percent of systems improperly sized or installed.
Because air-conditioning systems integrate refrigeration, air distribution, and electronics, there are lots of opportunities for mistakes.
The top three reasons for poor air-conditioner performance are 1. Improper sizing (1. 5 to 2 times too large is common ).
2. Improper installation.
3. Poorly designed and installed duct systems. Heat naturally moves from a higher energy level (warm ) to a lower energy level (cool ). Heat that accumulates within a house will not leave on its own unless the heat sources (the sun, people, appliances ) are removed. Help comes in the form of air conditioning, which uses refrigeration combined with ventilation to push heat uphill, or move it outside, where it’s even warmer.
Residential air-conditioning systems are made up of indoor and outdoor units connected by a pair of pipes that circulate refrigerant in a loop. By manipulating pressure and temperature, the indoor unit absorbs heat by blowing warm indoor air over a cold coil. The heat is released to the outdoor unit, which houses a compressor (which compresses refrigerant and itself generates heat ) and a condenser coil and fan (which dissipates the heat to the outside ).
In addition to cooling, air conditioners serve another function: They dehumidify the air. In the same way that moisture condenses on the side of a cold soda can sitting outside on a hot day, air conditioners wring moisture from warm humid air as it is forced across the indoor unit’s cold evaporator coil. Once past the evaporator, cool dehumidified air is delivered to the rest of the house — unless there’s a problem. Approximately two-thirds of all residential air conditioners are too large. According to Bruce Harley, a heating, ventilating and air-conditioning consultant with Conservation Services Group in Westborough, Mass., oversize units will cool your house, but they’re not necessarily designed to run efficiently.
The first problem is that they dehumidify poorly. Oversize units satisfy the temperatures at the thermostat so quickly that only a little moisture has time to condense on the evaporator coil. This is known as short cycling, and it’s more of a problem in humid climates. If cycles are very short, moisture on the coil can evaporate back into the house before it drains away.
Second, air-conditioning units are least efficient when they start up. It can take 15 minutes to reach operating efficiency, so oversize units run more short cycles and more time is spent running in the least efficient part of the cycle. As a result they use more energy; costs to operate them run 20 percent to 30 percent higher than for a proper size system.
Finally, at an installed cost of around $ 1, 000 per ton, oversize systems cost more.
The right size system is not a rule-of-thumb amount derived from the square footage of a house. The most efficient way of calculating the proper size for a residential air-conditioning system is found in Air Conditioning Contractors of America’s Manual J — Residential Load Calculation by Hank Rutkowski. It’s a methodical approach to arrive at room-by-room cooling loads for sizing ducts and whole house systems.
Manual J takes into account solar-heat gains, which don’t peak in all rooms at the same time. It also includes the house’s orientation to the sun and shading, which greatly affect the cooling load as well as the insulation values of walls, ceilings and floors. Window types, locations and specifications as well as internal heat gains (people, lighting and appliances ) are figured in. Another reason for poorly performing systems is faulty installation — incorrect refrigerant levels, low airflow and poorly designed and installed duct systems.
Condenser units arrive from the factory with the correct amount of refrigerant for a given length of piping, usually 15 or 25 feet, to connect the indoor and outdoor units. Refrigerant levels often are wrong because the line length in the field can vary and technicians frequently don’t make adjustments according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
According to Armin Rudd of Boston-based Building Science Corp., if the levels are up to 20 percent low, there’s some loss of cooling. More than that causes an unacceptable loss of cooling along with frosting of the evaporator coil and eventual complete loss of cooling. If refrigerant levels are too high, there is again loss of cooling with possible damage to the compressor.
The speed and volume of air moving through air-conditioning systems is often incorrect, partly due to mismatched indoor and outdoor units, which occurs more often on retrofits than on new installations because only the exterior compressor / condenser unit typically is replaced. Also, airflow at the evaporator coil often is low because it usually isn’t tested, so no one actually knows what it is.
Fan speeds at the evaporator coil should be around 400 cubic feet per minute per ton of cooling capacity. Slightly lower fan speeds improve dehumidification.
Tied to airflow and directly affecting it are duct design and installation. Ducts are the least expensive part of the system and frequently are given short shrift. A properly designed duct system begins with determining the cooling load for each room (not based on square footage ) which can vary greatly. Duct runs need to be as short as possible and insulated, and should be installed within air-conditioned space. Ducts should also be sealed. Leaky ducts waste energy and might draw dust, spores or combustion gas from a gas appliance back into a house.
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Having an Ancient Air Conditioner is no reason to Celebrate
It hard to find this many people who are willing to brag publicly about losing money.
Check out these recent GardenWeb postings
Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 10:39
My Trane Executive Weathertron heat pump turned 21 years old in March. It is now of legal drinking age. I will celebrate with it tonight with a mixed drink or two. I hope that it doesn't get drunk and tries to take advantage of me (or vice-versa).
No problems in the 6 years since I have been in the house. The compressor motor overload did trip a few months ago because of a power outage. I clean the inside coil yearly with an evap coil cleaner and change pleated filters once/month religeously.
I will not replace it until it dies even though it is only a 7 SEER. I will have an emergency back-up plan for the summer - a 12,000 btu window shaker that I'll buy and keep in the shed just in case.
Follow-Up Postings:
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:02
My Janitor-troll just turned 25, still going strong.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by fsq4cw (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:22
I had to bury mine. It was the only way to get the efficiency I wanted. Just completing its 4th heating season, no problems, no maintenance (except filter changes).
Nordic ground-source DX.
SR
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 15:36
Did the Nordic system come with a cool horned helmet and war hammer?
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by davefr (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:08
I just replaced by 1979 Carrier Model 38BQ Heat Pump. It was still operating fine when I replaced it last month. It was mated with a 29 year old GE air handler and a 15 year old Am. Std. coil. I'm sure the efficiency was pretty low on the scale.
I also just about threw a 30 year birthday part for my electric hot water heater but it started leaking before the big event.
My main refrigerator is a 1949 GE and going strong. (mint cond.) I keep my beer in a 1930's GE Monitor Top and it's still going strong.
These old relics might not be all that efficient but they were built to last.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:24
Those old Moniter Tops are charged with sulpher dioxide, if you have a leak better call HAZMAT. But they do cool good and last virtually forever.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 22:50
Does anyone have an idea what SEER my 1979 GE A/C might be?
It's about 3 ton I think, but we are going to have it replaced despite the fact it still works. Last month's $445 elec. bill was too much (with the therm. set at 79F). Our average monthly elec. bill before had to turn on the A/C was $145, so just cooling cost us $300 last month. We have all CFLs and a front-load washer, so it must be the water heater and A/C that are killing us.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by vstech (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 23:32
ba, I think the 8 seer's came out in 86, yours is most likely a 5... how many compressors have been in there? I feel pretty confident that a new 13 even (the cheapest models currently offered) would drop your bill by over 150... if your house has not been updated since the 70's, you need good roof ventilation, proper attic insulation, and updated windows, and door seals. that ought to drop it another 50 or so/month...
John
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 1:19
As far as I know, this is the original compressor - as our about half the neighborhood's. GE made them to last!
We have R-11 fiberglass batt insulation in the walls, R-13 under living room floors, 4-6 inch loose fill fiberglass in the attic, but only single-pane windows. We are looking to improve insulation (closed-cell foam where poss.) and upgrade to triple-paned low-E windows. Ideally I'd like to look into a metal roof when that needs replacing.
I am interested in the possibility of a water-cooled A/C, but aside from Freus, there doesn't seem to be much out there in the residential market.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 7:14
Wow, one of my old posts.
In June, I replaced the old heat pump, even though it was still running, with a new 14 SEER Goodman. I said that I would not replace it, but Maryland electric rates shot up 65% thanks to de-regulation and no competeition.
Looking at my previous 2 electric bills, I have reduced my electricity consumption by 40% compared to the same time last year.
I bought the unit myself and paid a pro to install it. I saved almost $2k over brand XYZ.
Best of luck to you, Bargainacious.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by keithtx (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 14:34
Just now changing out our Goodman heat pumps to these fancy Carrier Infinity 21 systems. The Goodmans are 1995 issue, so 12 yrs. old. A little noisy but they still ran fine. Tired of a leak no one could find. Very hard to find but it was a tiny leak in the evap. coil. Decided not to fix it and started pricing new systems.
Our house would get up to 85F upstairs even w/a $600 electric bill. So bye bye...old. Here comes 78F and lower electric bills ($0.12/kwh, $240 base bill w/o HVAC).
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by annabelle_gardener (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 4:35
I have a 1931 GE monitor top refrigerator. Just got it. When tested it worked. However, only worked for an hour for me and now has to be turned on manually and then it turns off shortly thereafter.
Does anyone have any info, ideas, suggestions, or know of someone who is knowledgeable or who repairs these?
Puzzled.
Thanks!
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 16:45
Take it to your local trade school.
They can have the students work on it and your cost is only the parts.
Boy that thing must suck up the kw's!!
best of luck to you.
And happy birthday to Gary's Goodman.
How did your utility bills look this winter?
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 22:58
My old post is re-visited again.
The new heat pump is going great. Winter $$ savings are not as much as summer since I can use up to 2000 kw/month in the winter. Most of that is the heat pump and the aux electric strips (which don't seem to run as much with the new heat pump). First winter with the new Goodman went very well.
Take care.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by ryanhughes (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 23:36
Gary, out of sheer curiosity, what wholesale HVAC warehouses did you look into around our area (though I believe you bought it in PA, didn't you?)? Is there one for Trane/American Standard you checked out (do you think you could somehow get equipment from them?)? I think I recall you saying you priced an American Standard system for around $3k and was curious where this was.
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Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 10:39
My Trane Executive Weathertron heat pump turned 21 years old in March. It is now of legal drinking age. I will celebrate with it tonight with a mixed drink or two. I hope that it doesn't get drunk and tries to take advantage of me (or vice-versa).
No problems in the 6 years since I have been in the house. The compressor motor overload did trip a few months ago because of a power outage. I clean the inside coil yearly with an evap coil cleaner and change pleated filters once/month religeously.
I will not replace it until it dies even though it is only a 7 SEER. I will have an emergency back-up plan for the summer - a 12,000 btu window shaker that I'll buy and keep in the shed just in case.
Follow-Up Postings:
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:02
My Janitor-troll just turned 25, still going strong.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by fsq4cw (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:22
I had to bury mine. It was the only way to get the efficiency I wanted. Just completing its 4th heating season, no problems, no maintenance (except filter changes).
Nordic ground-source DX.
SR
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 15:36
Did the Nordic system come with a cool horned helmet and war hammer?
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by davefr (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:08
I just replaced by 1979 Carrier Model 38BQ Heat Pump. It was still operating fine when I replaced it last month. It was mated with a 29 year old GE air handler and a 15 year old Am. Std. coil. I'm sure the efficiency was pretty low on the scale.
I also just about threw a 30 year birthday part for my electric hot water heater but it started leaking before the big event.
My main refrigerator is a 1949 GE and going strong. (mint cond.) I keep my beer in a 1930's GE Monitor Top and it's still going strong.
These old relics might not be all that efficient but they were built to last.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:24
Those old Moniter Tops are charged with sulpher dioxide, if you have a leak better call HAZMAT. But they do cool good and last virtually forever.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 22:50
Does anyone have an idea what SEER my 1979 GE A/C might be?
It's about 3 ton I think, but we are going to have it replaced despite the fact it still works. Last month's $445 elec. bill was too much (with the therm. set at 79F). Our average monthly elec. bill before had to turn on the A/C was $145, so just cooling cost us $300 last month. We have all CFLs and a front-load washer, so it must be the water heater and A/C that are killing us.
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by vstech (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 23:32
ba, I think the 8 seer's came out in 86, yours is most likely a 5... how many compressors have been in there? I feel pretty confident that a new 13 even (the cheapest models currently offered) would drop your bill by over 150... if your house has not been updated since the 70's, you need good roof ventilation, proper attic insulation, and updated windows, and door seals. that ought to drop it another 50 or so/month...
John
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 1:19
As far as I know, this is the original compressor - as our about half the neighborhood's. GE made them to last!
We have R-11 fiberglass batt insulation in the walls, R-13 under living room floors, 4-6 inch loose fill fiberglass in the attic, but only single-pane windows. We are looking to improve insulation (closed-cell foam where poss.) and upgrade to triple-paned low-E windows. Ideally I'd like to look into a metal roof when that needs replacing.
I am interested in the possibility of a water-cooled A/C, but aside from Freus, there doesn't seem to be much out there in the residential market.
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 7:14
Wow, one of my old posts.
In June, I replaced the old heat pump, even though it was still running, with a new 14 SEER Goodman. I said that I would not replace it, but Maryland electric rates shot up 65% thanks to de-regulation and no competeition.
Looking at my previous 2 electric bills, I have reduced my electricity consumption by 40% compared to the same time last year.
I bought the unit myself and paid a pro to install it. I saved almost $2k over brand XYZ.
Best of luck to you, Bargainacious.
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by keithtx (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 14:34
Just now changing out our Goodman heat pumps to these fancy Carrier Infinity 21 systems. The Goodmans are 1995 issue, so 12 yrs. old. A little noisy but they still ran fine. Tired of a leak no one could find. Very hard to find but it was a tiny leak in the evap. coil. Decided not to fix it and started pricing new systems.
Our house would get up to 85F upstairs even w/a $600 electric bill. So bye bye...old. Here comes 78F and lower electric bills ($0.12/kwh, $240 base bill w/o HVAC).
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by annabelle_gardener (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 4:35
I have a 1931 GE monitor top refrigerator. Just got it. When tested it worked. However, only worked for an hour for me and now has to be turned on manually and then it turns off shortly thereafter.
Does anyone have any info, ideas, suggestions, or know of someone who is knowledgeable or who repairs these?
Puzzled.
Thanks!
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 16:45
Take it to your local trade school.
They can have the students work on it and your cost is only the parts.
Boy that thing must suck up the kw's!!
best of luck to you.
And happy birthday to Gary's Goodman.
How did your utility bills look this winter?
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RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 22:58
My old post is re-visited again.
The new heat pump is going great. Winter $$ savings are not as much as summer since I can use up to 2000 kw/month in the winter. Most of that is the heat pump and the aux electric strips (which don't seem to run as much with the new heat pump). First winter with the new Goodman went very well.
Take care.
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* Posted by ryanhughes (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 23:36
Gary, out of sheer curiosity, what wholesale HVAC warehouses did you look into around our area (though I believe you bought it in PA, didn't you?)? Is there one for Trane/American Standard you checked out (do you think you could somehow get equipment from them?)? I think I recall you saying you priced an American Standard system for around $3k and was curious where this was.
Friday, April 4, 2008
Now they want to control your Temperature
Wanted: Residents to let utility control A/C
Thermostats to be remote-controlled
Metro area homeowners who use more electricity than the average customer and who have central air conditioning can expect an offer from Toledo Edison to regulate their thermostats.
The company will install a $250 thermostat for free and set programmable temperatures for the owner, with the condition that the utility can adjust the device remotely to raise indoor temperatures and save on air conditioning use.
The invitation is part of a wider program by Toledo Edison's parent FirstEnergy Corp. to control energy use. It will be offered to people who use an average of 1,000 kilowatt-hours a month and will enable the company to adjust the thermostat without warning for up to four hours and for up to four degrees.
The primary need is during hot summer months when businesses and homeowners have air conditioning cranked up, taxing the electric delivery system.
While critics argue the pro-gram has a "Big Brother" image, advocates say the program helps the environment and lowers utility bills.
"If it's for the greater good of saving energy I'm all for it," said Toledoan Brian Yourist. "Anything to lower my energy bill."
There is no cost to the customer. Toledo Edison will limit its own thermostat adjustments to 20 per year, the company said. It will allow the owner to change the thermostat at any time, even after a utility adjustment, and to make changes to it via the Internet.
It was unclear how many customers were being asked to participate.
FirstEnergy has had 2,500 customers join in Cleveland and Akron.
The Toledo program will begin in April as invitations have been sent out. Toledo Edison has 315,000 customers, who average 750 kilowatt-hours per month.
FirstEnergy spokesman Mark Durbin said the goal is to have 10,000 participate statewide. The system can help control home temperatures from the workplace, vacation destination, or in cases of emergency, leading to energy conservation.
The same controls are available through a programmable thermostat bought in a store and installed by the homeowner, although that one wouldn't be connect to the utility's system.
The electric company has had to impose brownouts and blackouts in the past, particularly to businesses that enjoy a lower electricity rate for the right to have power cut off during peak summer months.
The program comes in the last year in which FirstEnergy is to have regulated electric rates.
It has a pending request to raise its basic electricity distribution rate and the governor, state legislature, and others are trying to determine whether costs to generate power should continue to have any regulation after this year.
Duke Energy, a utility company in southwest Ohio, provides a similar service, and that has reduced energy use.
Ten percent of its eligible customers participate, a spokesman said.
The Ohio Consumers' Counsel, a watchdog agency, backs the system.
"This is a good program for consumers to be able to take control of how much energy they're using," said spokesman Anthony Dill.
"We've made sure there are guidelines [to protect customers]."
Thermostats to be remote-controlled
Metro area homeowners who use more electricity than the average customer and who have central air conditioning can expect an offer from Toledo Edison to regulate their thermostats.
The company will install a $250 thermostat for free and set programmable temperatures for the owner, with the condition that the utility can adjust the device remotely to raise indoor temperatures and save on air conditioning use.
The invitation is part of a wider program by Toledo Edison's parent FirstEnergy Corp. to control energy use. It will be offered to people who use an average of 1,000 kilowatt-hours a month and will enable the company to adjust the thermostat without warning for up to four hours and for up to four degrees.
The primary need is during hot summer months when businesses and homeowners have air conditioning cranked up, taxing the electric delivery system.
While critics argue the pro-gram has a "Big Brother" image, advocates say the program helps the environment and lowers utility bills.
"If it's for the greater good of saving energy I'm all for it," said Toledoan Brian Yourist. "Anything to lower my energy bill."
There is no cost to the customer. Toledo Edison will limit its own thermostat adjustments to 20 per year, the company said. It will allow the owner to change the thermostat at any time, even after a utility adjustment, and to make changes to it via the Internet.
It was unclear how many customers were being asked to participate.
FirstEnergy has had 2,500 customers join in Cleveland and Akron.
The Toledo program will begin in April as invitations have been sent out. Toledo Edison has 315,000 customers, who average 750 kilowatt-hours per month.
FirstEnergy spokesman Mark Durbin said the goal is to have 10,000 participate statewide. The system can help control home temperatures from the workplace, vacation destination, or in cases of emergency, leading to energy conservation.
The same controls are available through a programmable thermostat bought in a store and installed by the homeowner, although that one wouldn't be connect to the utility's system.
The electric company has had to impose brownouts and blackouts in the past, particularly to businesses that enjoy a lower electricity rate for the right to have power cut off during peak summer months.
The program comes in the last year in which FirstEnergy is to have regulated electric rates.
It has a pending request to raise its basic electricity distribution rate and the governor, state legislature, and others are trying to determine whether costs to generate power should continue to have any regulation after this year.
Duke Energy, a utility company in southwest Ohio, provides a similar service, and that has reduced energy use.
Ten percent of its eligible customers participate, a spokesman said.
The Ohio Consumers' Counsel, a watchdog agency, backs the system.
"This is a good program for consumers to be able to take control of how much energy they're using," said spokesman Anthony Dill.
"We've made sure there are guidelines [to protect customers]."
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Considering Green don't forget your AC
Keep Your Cool and Save Energy
ATLANTA, April 1 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ -- It's no secret that rising energy costs have caused consumers and businesses to conserve energy more than ever before, but what most don't know is that transportation is not the most energy-guzzling sector in the United States -- buildings are.
Accounting for 40 percent of energy use in the United States, buildings represent a significant potential for reducing energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, according to the Atlanta-based American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE).
"We actually have the technology right now to substantially reduce energy consumption through buildings, all the way down to net-zero-energy," says ASHRAE President Kent Peterson. "It's up to building owners to realize the power to help ensure our nation's energy independence is in their hands."
While most people can't directly impact commercial energy use, many can take steps at home to reduce their energy consumption as the summer months arrive.
-- Dial up. When the home is occupied during the day, set the temperature at 76 degrees or above, and move it a few degrees higher at night while sleeping. Programmable thermostats can do this automatically and easily.
-- Mind the ventilation. Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans wisely. In just one hour, these fans can pull out a houseful of cooled air. Install a timer switch instead of a manual switch to limit the time an exhaust fan is on.
-- Cover up. In warmer months, close the drapes or shades on the east, south, and west windows during the day to prevent the sun's energy from heating the room. The shade or drapery material should be reflective on the side facing the window.
-- Duct, duct, loose? Have air ducts checked for leaks and holes. If you use duct tape to repair and seal your ducts, use tape with the Underwriter's Lab logo so it doesn't degrade, crack or lose its bond with age.
-- Get some shade. Shading from overhangs, awnings, exterior shades, shade screens and foliage can reduce heat entering the house, especially on east and west windows. While you are outside, make sure that landscaping isn't too close to the outdoor air-conditioning unit, as it may block airflow that is necessary for efficiency.
-- Clean up. Clean or change furnace filters every one to two months and have the system maintained according to manufacturer's instructions. Dirty filters, coils and fans reduce airflow throughout the system, which decreases performance and can damage your system.
-- Insulate. Adding insulation to your attic is the easiest and least expensive way to increase insulation. Insulation can be blown into wall cavities, especially in older homes. If siding is to be replaced, take the opportunity to add a layer of exterior insulation.
-- Keep your cool. Caulk, install weather stripping or use spray-in foams around windows and doors, on exterior walls, or between cooled and unconditioned spaces such as garages, basements and crawl spaces to keep conditioned air in.
ATLANTA, April 1 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ -- It's no secret that rising energy costs have caused consumers and businesses to conserve energy more than ever before, but what most don't know is that transportation is not the most energy-guzzling sector in the United States -- buildings are.
Accounting for 40 percent of energy use in the United States, buildings represent a significant potential for reducing energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, according to the Atlanta-based American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE).
"We actually have the technology right now to substantially reduce energy consumption through buildings, all the way down to net-zero-energy," says ASHRAE President Kent Peterson. "It's up to building owners to realize the power to help ensure our nation's energy independence is in their hands."
While most people can't directly impact commercial energy use, many can take steps at home to reduce their energy consumption as the summer months arrive.
-- Dial up. When the home is occupied during the day, set the temperature at 76 degrees or above, and move it a few degrees higher at night while sleeping. Programmable thermostats can do this automatically and easily.
-- Mind the ventilation. Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans wisely. In just one hour, these fans can pull out a houseful of cooled air. Install a timer switch instead of a manual switch to limit the time an exhaust fan is on.
-- Cover up. In warmer months, close the drapes or shades on the east, south, and west windows during the day to prevent the sun's energy from heating the room. The shade or drapery material should be reflective on the side facing the window.
-- Duct, duct, loose? Have air ducts checked for leaks and holes. If you use duct tape to repair and seal your ducts, use tape with the Underwriter's Lab logo so it doesn't degrade, crack or lose its bond with age.
-- Get some shade. Shading from overhangs, awnings, exterior shades, shade screens and foliage can reduce heat entering the house, especially on east and west windows. While you are outside, make sure that landscaping isn't too close to the outdoor air-conditioning unit, as it may block airflow that is necessary for efficiency.
-- Clean up. Clean or change furnace filters every one to two months and have the system maintained according to manufacturer's instructions. Dirty filters, coils and fans reduce airflow throughout the system, which decreases performance and can damage your system.
-- Insulate. Adding insulation to your attic is the easiest and least expensive way to increase insulation. Insulation can be blown into wall cavities, especially in older homes. If siding is to be replaced, take the opportunity to add a layer of exterior insulation.
-- Keep your cool. Caulk, install weather stripping or use spray-in foams around windows and doors, on exterior walls, or between cooled and unconditioned spaces such as garages, basements and crawl spaces to keep conditioned air in.
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Easy inexpensive ways to save all summer
Eight steps to take now to save air-conditioning dollars this summer
Why wait until the middle of sweaty August to despair about the size of your electric bill? Take steps now to knock down the cost of chillin' in the crib.
1. Install ceiling fans. A good ceiling fan can help you delay the need to flip on the a/c, and allows you to stay comfortable at higher temperatures. The cost difference between maintaining my a/c at our usual 72 degrees and raising it to 76 degrees is around 3% per degree, so on our $237 bill from last August, I could have saved almost $30. Best of all, a good ceiling fan lasts for years and years.
2. Check your ceiling insulation. The cool spring is a great time to beef up your attic blanket. Wait until summer and you'll find out what a turkey experiences on Thanksgiving morning.
3. Plant deciduous trees to shade the western/southern side of your house.
4. Check your windows and doors for insulation leaks, using a stick of incense or a smoke stick. Turn off the furnace and all fans, close all windows and doors, then suss out those money-squandering leaks.
5. Clean your outside a/c condenser unit. The last time I had to call the HVAC guy to our house, I learned, to my embarrassment, that the new venting location for our dryer was blowing fuffa directly onto the a/c unit. Duh!
6. Replace your furnace filter. Buy a dozen so that you're set to replace them monthly during the summer. Otherwise, your a/c unit will be trying to breathe through a straw.
7. Consider installing a house exhaust fan. These units, usually installed in the top floor ceiling, are designed to exhaust the hot air from your house and pull cool night air in through open windows to cool the place down.
8. Make sure window treatments will block sunlight. The newer style of cellular blinds are reasonably priced and give a great deal of insulation.
Why wait until the middle of sweaty August to despair about the size of your electric bill? Take steps now to knock down the cost of chillin' in the crib.
1. Install ceiling fans. A good ceiling fan can help you delay the need to flip on the a/c, and allows you to stay comfortable at higher temperatures. The cost difference between maintaining my a/c at our usual 72 degrees and raising it to 76 degrees is around 3% per degree, so on our $237 bill from last August, I could have saved almost $30. Best of all, a good ceiling fan lasts for years and years.
2. Check your ceiling insulation. The cool spring is a great time to beef up your attic blanket. Wait until summer and you'll find out what a turkey experiences on Thanksgiving morning.
3. Plant deciduous trees to shade the western/southern side of your house.
4. Check your windows and doors for insulation leaks, using a stick of incense or a smoke stick. Turn off the furnace and all fans, close all windows and doors, then suss out those money-squandering leaks.
5. Clean your outside a/c condenser unit. The last time I had to call the HVAC guy to our house, I learned, to my embarrassment, that the new venting location for our dryer was blowing fuffa directly onto the a/c unit. Duh!
6. Replace your furnace filter. Buy a dozen so that you're set to replace them monthly during the summer. Otherwise, your a/c unit will be trying to breathe through a straw.
7. Consider installing a house exhaust fan. These units, usually installed in the top floor ceiling, are designed to exhaust the hot air from your house and pull cool night air in through open windows to cool the place down.
8. Make sure window treatments will block sunlight. The newer style of cellular blinds are reasonably priced and give a great deal of insulation.
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