Clean air conditioner before spring
Cleaning your air conditioning unit is an easy task but one that many people overlook.
A clean air conditioner works more efficiently, costs less to operate and is less likely to require repair. Setting up a schedule for regular cleaning is a good maintenance practice, and one of the best times is now, before the season begins.
Tools, materials needed
1. Vacuum cleaner or shop vac
2. Garden hose
3. Screwdriver, pliers
4. HVAC cleaner (available in spray cans at hardware stores)
5. Shop cloth or soft bristle brush (such as an old toilet brush)
Instructions
Window air conditioner
1. Unplug the power cord from the outlet
2. Remove the filter cover on the inside of the house
3. Remove the filter and wash thoroughly with soap and water. Let it dry before putting it back in the unit.
4. Vacuum all of the dust and dirt from the unit that you can reach from the inside, and then go outside.
5. Spray the ventilation fins with the HVAC solvent and wipe or brush them clean. Straighten any bent fins with a pair of pliers.
6. Remove the outside cover, spraying the inside of the cover with HVAC solvent and rinsing it clean with water from the garden hose.
7. Vacuum the accumulated dirt and debris from the compressor coils. Look for evidence that the coils have been leaking or cracked. If you find damage to the coils, call an HVAC serviceman.
8. Spray the compressor unit with the HVAC solvent and let sit for a few minutes. Clean the coils with the cloth or brush. Vacuum once more to get any dust or dirt that was missed.
9. Replace the cover
Central air conditioner (outdoor compressor unit)
1. Turn off the power supply
2. With the screwdriver, remove the screws holding the fan assembly on top of the unit, and set it aside, using care not to cut or crimp the wires.
3. Remove all accumulated leaves, grass clippings and weeds that may have been pulled into the unit by the fan.
4. Spray the coils with HVAC solvent and let sit for a few minutes.
5. Spray the inside of the unit with the garden hose to clean thoroughly.
6. Clean the air ventilation fins on the outside of the unit with the solvent and the cloth or brush.
7. Straighten any bent fins with the pliers.
8. Replace the fan unit.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Getting ready for the Heat
Our friends in Texas are feeling it already don't let the summer find you unprepared download your free Homeowners Protection Guide today.
http://www.howtorepairairconditioners.com
Break in the heat a good time to get your A/C working
Don’t let today’s pleasant weather fool you — hot weather is on its way, and sooner than you think.
The Rio Grande Valley had a taste of summer weather Monday, as temperatures soared to the 90s.
In fact, McAllen set a new record high for that day when it reached 96 degrees at about 4 p.m.
The last record was 94 degrees, set in 1944, said Joseph Tomaselli, a meteorologist with the National Weather Service’s station in Brownsville. The Valley’s average temperatures for this time of year are in the mid- to high 70s, Tomaselli said.
Blame the heat on south and southwestern winds that preceded today’s cold front, said Greg Flatt, lead meteorologist for the National Weather Service. Temperatures are forecast to only reach the mid 70s today and Wednesday. Then they are expected to jump back to the 80s later this week.
More cool days are anticipated throughout the next month or so, but come late April the hot weather will be here to stay, Flatt said.
“Our summer gets here a little sooner,” he said.
So now would be a good time to make sure your air conditioning unit is properly working.
People should have their air conditioning units checked at least once a year and regularly replace filters to avoid any unexpected problems when they need cold air the most, according to local air conditioning repairmen.
Jose Avendano, owner of Cardenas Air and Heat in McAllen said people should keep up with their air conditioning unit maintenance like they keep up the maintenance of their cars.
“How often do you wash your car? Every time it’s dirty,” he said.
Homeowners should check the outdoor and indoor units to see how dirty the system is. If their unit needs cleaning, call a professional instead of trying it yourself so as to not risk getting hurt or damaging the unit, Avendano said. He also urged homeowners to check the batteries on their thermostats once a year to make sure it’s giving the right readings.
Another way to keep repair costs and temperatures low is to sign a maintenance agreement with a repair company you trust, said Ramon Gonzalez, owner of Azteca Electrical and Mechanical in McAllen.
Under the agreement, technicians check the air conditioning units at least once a year to make sure everything is smoothly running. Technicians can give the owners a heads-up to any potential problems and fix them before they become a larger and more expensive one, Gonzalez said. Contract prices vary by company.
Gonzalez also encouraged homeowners to clean out the coils because they’ve been known to collect ants, pet hair and other debris from outside.
Now, when the weather is still temperate, is the best time to check air conditioning units, because when summer comes it will be harder finding a technician who is readily available, he said.
http://www.howtorepairairconditioners.com
Break in the heat a good time to get your A/C working
Don’t let today’s pleasant weather fool you — hot weather is on its way, and sooner than you think.
The Rio Grande Valley had a taste of summer weather Monday, as temperatures soared to the 90s.
In fact, McAllen set a new record high for that day when it reached 96 degrees at about 4 p.m.
The last record was 94 degrees, set in 1944, said Joseph Tomaselli, a meteorologist with the National Weather Service’s station in Brownsville. The Valley’s average temperatures for this time of year are in the mid- to high 70s, Tomaselli said.
Blame the heat on south and southwestern winds that preceded today’s cold front, said Greg Flatt, lead meteorologist for the National Weather Service. Temperatures are forecast to only reach the mid 70s today and Wednesday. Then they are expected to jump back to the 80s later this week.
More cool days are anticipated throughout the next month or so, but come late April the hot weather will be here to stay, Flatt said.
“Our summer gets here a little sooner,” he said.
So now would be a good time to make sure your air conditioning unit is properly working.
People should have their air conditioning units checked at least once a year and regularly replace filters to avoid any unexpected problems when they need cold air the most, according to local air conditioning repairmen.
Jose Avendano, owner of Cardenas Air and Heat in McAllen said people should keep up with their air conditioning unit maintenance like they keep up the maintenance of their cars.
“How often do you wash your car? Every time it’s dirty,” he said.
Homeowners should check the outdoor and indoor units to see how dirty the system is. If their unit needs cleaning, call a professional instead of trying it yourself so as to not risk getting hurt or damaging the unit, Avendano said. He also urged homeowners to check the batteries on their thermostats once a year to make sure it’s giving the right readings.
Another way to keep repair costs and temperatures low is to sign a maintenance agreement with a repair company you trust, said Ramon Gonzalez, owner of Azteca Electrical and Mechanical in McAllen.
Under the agreement, technicians check the air conditioning units at least once a year to make sure everything is smoothly running. Technicians can give the owners a heads-up to any potential problems and fix them before they become a larger and more expensive one, Gonzalez said. Contract prices vary by company.
Gonzalez also encouraged homeowners to clean out the coils because they’ve been known to collect ants, pet hair and other debris from outside.
Now, when the weather is still temperate, is the best time to check air conditioning units, because when summer comes it will be harder finding a technician who is readily available, he said.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Troubleshooting traps and tricks
SOLUTION TO OUR LAST PROBLEM
To begin, here is the answer to our Dec. 3, 2007 issue troubleshooting problem, “An Electric Heating System That’s Not Heating Enough.”
In order to get this unit back on line, we need to replace two heating elements, HE1 and HE2. As sometimes happens in residential heating units, customers don’t realize that one element has gone out at some point in the past, and may not call for service until the heating capacity of the unit drops low enough for them to notice (with the failure of the second element). Both elements were proven to have failed since proper voltage was applied, but the measured current draw in their circuits was zero.
And, now on to this issue’s problem.
A GAS FURNACE FOLLOW-UP SERVICE CALL
Since we’re still in the “heating season mode” our troubleshooting problem this time around is focused on a customer who has called to say that “the room gets too warm before the furnace cycles off.” This is actually a follow-up situation, and here are some details:
• This is a new tenant in a residential rental, and after moving in and turning up the heat, they note that the burners turn on and the blower motor operates, but it seems to them that the house gets too warm before the unit cycles off.
• When you arrive, you note that this is a standard natural gas upflow furnace, with a standard electromechanical thermostat, which, according to the landlord (who took it upon himself to install), was installed last season when the furnace wasn’t operating at all.
• In your evaluation of the system’s performance, you choose a set point of 70°F and note that the room temperature does, in fact, go above that before the burners cycle off and the blower motor shuts down.
To begin your troubleshooting process, you disconnect the wiring from the thermostat sub-base and, using an analog ammeter and ten-wire wrap, you check the current draw of the control circuit. Figure 1 shows you the results of your test, and Figure 2 shows you the setting of the heat anticipator on the thermostat sub-base.
And your troubleshooting question is: What needs to be done in order to get this unit operating normally again?
If you have the answer to this question, Please respond to mike@howtorepairairconditioners.com otherwise wait for our follow up.
Author’s Side Note on Our Troubleshooting Problems
When you submit your diagnosis, feel free to include any additional thoughts and opinions about the scenario we present in addition to the answer to the problem. What do you think about the landlord in his do-it-yourself role? How about the choice of the replacement thermostat (about as inexpensive a model as possible) in a rental situation? How about using a digital meter rather than an analog meter to accomplish the test we illustrated? Any other thoughts on what you, as a service professional, should insist on doing to make sure you don’t find yourself in a problem situation after you leave this house? We will be publishing reader input along with the answer next time around.
To begin, here is the answer to our Dec. 3, 2007 issue troubleshooting problem, “An Electric Heating System That’s Not Heating Enough.”
In order to get this unit back on line, we need to replace two heating elements, HE1 and HE2. As sometimes happens in residential heating units, customers don’t realize that one element has gone out at some point in the past, and may not call for service until the heating capacity of the unit drops low enough for them to notice (with the failure of the second element). Both elements were proven to have failed since proper voltage was applied, but the measured current draw in their circuits was zero.
And, now on to this issue’s problem.
A GAS FURNACE FOLLOW-UP SERVICE CALL
Since we’re still in the “heating season mode” our troubleshooting problem this time around is focused on a customer who has called to say that “the room gets too warm before the furnace cycles off.” This is actually a follow-up situation, and here are some details:
• This is a new tenant in a residential rental, and after moving in and turning up the heat, they note that the burners turn on and the blower motor operates, but it seems to them that the house gets too warm before the unit cycles off.
• When you arrive, you note that this is a standard natural gas upflow furnace, with a standard electromechanical thermostat, which, according to the landlord (who took it upon himself to install), was installed last season when the furnace wasn’t operating at all.
• In your evaluation of the system’s performance, you choose a set point of 70°F and note that the room temperature does, in fact, go above that before the burners cycle off and the blower motor shuts down.
To begin your troubleshooting process, you disconnect the wiring from the thermostat sub-base and, using an analog ammeter and ten-wire wrap, you check the current draw of the control circuit. Figure 1 shows you the results of your test, and Figure 2 shows you the setting of the heat anticipator on the thermostat sub-base.
And your troubleshooting question is: What needs to be done in order to get this unit operating normally again?
If you have the answer to this question, Please respond to mike@howtorepairairconditioners.com otherwise wait for our follow up.
Author’s Side Note on Our Troubleshooting Problems
When you submit your diagnosis, feel free to include any additional thoughts and opinions about the scenario we present in addition to the answer to the problem. What do you think about the landlord in his do-it-yourself role? How about the choice of the replacement thermostat (about as inexpensive a model as possible) in a rental situation? How about using a digital meter rather than an analog meter to accomplish the test we illustrated? Any other thoughts on what you, as a service professional, should insist on doing to make sure you don’t find yourself in a problem situation after you leave this house? We will be publishing reader input along with the answer next time around.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Help for someone with no Heat
Glad to help our Do It Youselfer Friends
oliverc
Advice on diagnosing Rheem furnace problem
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a Rheem Criterion model RGDG-05NAUER, and I need help diagnosing the problem, which started after the thing had been running almost continuously for a few cold days.
When the thermostat calls for heat, the induction draft blower starts up and does its 30 second prepurge. The igniter doesn't glow. The gas comes on for a few seconds, but, of course, it doesn't light. After that, it just waits for a while and goes through the same cycle over and over again.
According to the troubleshooting flow diagram, this could be caused by a defective "Air Proving Switch" (or pressure switch, I guess it's more often called), a blocked vent, a faulty igniter or a control-board/ wiring problem. I'm pretty sure the vent is OK. I just don't know how to check the pressure switch. How do I know if it's working or not? (According to the manual, it's supposed to be closed if it's working OK. I tried shorting it out, but then not even the draft blower would come on.)
If it is the pressure switch, where can I find a replacement? I've looked all over the web, and I can't find any replacement for this part, which is:
(The 6, 0 and 8 all look kind of the same, I can't be sure the number is right no matter how long I stare at the tiny printing!)
One last question, which probably isn't relevant to the problem but I'd like to know anyway: There's a limit switch on the hot side of the compartment. It's a small thing with a little red cylinder sticking up out of it. How do I know whether it's been triggered and needs to be reset? And how would I reset it if I had to? When I push down on it, there's no give -- it doesn't feel like it would go down no matter how hard I push.
I do have a multimeter, but it doesn't do continuity testing (yeah, I'm from the stone age).
Thanks for any help you can give me.
BTW, does anyone else find it really irritating that the manufacturer gives almost no help on this stuff? And that every service place in town (Los Angeles) refuses to sell parts? I mean, shouldn't a guy be allowed to try and fix his own furnace if he wants to?
oliverc
Furnace Repair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's not the switch or the gas valve wouldn't open you need to unplug the igniter and put two meter leads in the holes of the plug with the furnace off, set your meter to volts ac then turn the furnace on after purge you should get a voltage reading if you do the igniter is bad you should have a local rheem distributor but if you don't rheem or ruud either one can sell you the same part.
mike n
Thank you, thank you! It was just as you said: igniter was bust. You are smarter than the manual. Two hours of blood sweat and tears later, fiddling in the innards with a hex wrench, I have heat!
oliverc
Advice on diagnosing Rheem furnace problem
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a Rheem Criterion model RGDG-05NAUER, and I need help diagnosing the problem, which started after the thing had been running almost continuously for a few cold days.
When the thermostat calls for heat, the induction draft blower starts up and does its 30 second prepurge. The igniter doesn't glow. The gas comes on for a few seconds, but, of course, it doesn't light. After that, it just waits for a while and goes through the same cycle over and over again.
According to the troubleshooting flow diagram, this could be caused by a defective "Air Proving Switch" (or pressure switch, I guess it's more often called), a blocked vent, a faulty igniter or a control-board/ wiring problem. I'm pretty sure the vent is OK. I just don't know how to check the pressure switch. How do I know if it's working or not? (According to the manual, it's supposed to be closed if it's working OK. I tried shorting it out, but then not even the draft blower would come on.)
If it is the pressure switch, where can I find a replacement? I've looked all over the web, and I can't find any replacement for this part, which is:
(The 6, 0 and 8 all look kind of the same, I can't be sure the number is right no matter how long I stare at the tiny printing!)
One last question, which probably isn't relevant to the problem but I'd like to know anyway: There's a limit switch on the hot side of the compartment. It's a small thing with a little red cylinder sticking up out of it. How do I know whether it's been triggered and needs to be reset? And how would I reset it if I had to? When I push down on it, there's no give -- it doesn't feel like it would go down no matter how hard I push.
I do have a multimeter, but it doesn't do continuity testing (yeah, I'm from the stone age).
Thanks for any help you can give me.
BTW, does anyone else find it really irritating that the manufacturer gives almost no help on this stuff? And that every service place in town (Los Angeles) refuses to sell parts? I mean, shouldn't a guy be allowed to try and fix his own furnace if he wants to?
oliverc
Furnace Repair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's not the switch or the gas valve wouldn't open you need to unplug the igniter and put two meter leads in the holes of the plug with the furnace off, set your meter to volts ac then turn the furnace on after purge you should get a voltage reading if you do the igniter is bad you should have a local rheem distributor but if you don't rheem or ruud either one can sell you the same part.
mike n
Thank you, thank you! It was just as you said: igniter was bust. You are smarter than the manual. Two hours of blood sweat and tears later, fiddling in the innards with a hex wrench, I have heat!
AC in the Attic Frustration
Here are some installation opinions from the northeast.
While attic installation of an air handler does present a few problems if installation is done properly and ductwork is sealed there is no reason that an attic installation cannot be a good fit especially if you don't like sweating to death upstairs in the summer, but you let me know what you think.
An attic is no place for a heating unit
Q.I have a gas furnace in my attic, where it was installed some time ago in the house that was built in 1937, with 3,000 square feet of living space. It is not heating very well, and two dealers offered ideas: One suggested installing a new hot-air unit fired by gas. Another suggested hydro air, a boiler in the attic that heats hot air that is blown into the second-floor living area. What should I do?
LAURIE, from Newton
A.Here we go again, when designers and contractors are putting air-conditioning units (not compressors, thank goodness) and heating units into attics. Generally, the idea is to share the space in large houses, with one unit in the basement to serve the first floor, another in the attic to serve the second and higher floors. In the Handyman's opinion, it is not a good idea, and in both cases these units should be removed from the attic.
In Michael Keegan's house, the air-conditioning unit (not a compressor, which should remain outdoors) is a distributor, with air flowing over cold coils and cooled as it is distributed to the house, or at least to the second floor. The problem is the unit is releasing a lot of water vapor into the attic, where it condenses on the cool ceiling and allows mold to grow. These units are usually airtight, but a leak may have occurred to allow that water vapor to escape. That can be fixed, and I suggest Mr. Keegan contact the dealer to get it fixed.
It would be better to relocate the unit to a proper room on the second floor, where excess water vapor could be exausted. Some engineers feel there is enough ventilation in an attic to handle the heat or water vapor, but the Handyman is not convinced this is so.
Ms. Laurie's problem is similar, but with a furnace that is not working very well. A good dealer might be able to fix that, but better would be to relocate that furnace, even if it has a power vent through an attic wall or through the roof. You can insulate the furnace, but you cannot insulate an open gas flame. Therefore, sooner or later, the unit will pump out a lot of water vapor and possibly heat, causing possible growth of mold, and possibly ice dams.
gas furnace with a power vent could be located on the second floor. If the house is big enough, this should not be a problem.
more stories like this Finally, most houses are not so big that they need two heating or two air-conditioning units. A lot of big houses are heated and cooled by one unit. That may sound old-fashioned, but it works better than some of the new-fangled ideas that are floating round these days.
While attic installation of an air handler does present a few problems if installation is done properly and ductwork is sealed there is no reason that an attic installation cannot be a good fit especially if you don't like sweating to death upstairs in the summer, but you let me know what you think.
An attic is no place for a heating unit
Q.I have a gas furnace in my attic, where it was installed some time ago in the house that was built in 1937, with 3,000 square feet of living space. It is not heating very well, and two dealers offered ideas: One suggested installing a new hot-air unit fired by gas. Another suggested hydro air, a boiler in the attic that heats hot air that is blown into the second-floor living area. What should I do?
LAURIE, from Newton
A.Here we go again, when designers and contractors are putting air-conditioning units (not compressors, thank goodness) and heating units into attics. Generally, the idea is to share the space in large houses, with one unit in the basement to serve the first floor, another in the attic to serve the second and higher floors. In the Handyman's opinion, it is not a good idea, and in both cases these units should be removed from the attic.
In Michael Keegan's house, the air-conditioning unit (not a compressor, which should remain outdoors) is a distributor, with air flowing over cold coils and cooled as it is distributed to the house, or at least to the second floor. The problem is the unit is releasing a lot of water vapor into the attic, where it condenses on the cool ceiling and allows mold to grow. These units are usually airtight, but a leak may have occurred to allow that water vapor to escape. That can be fixed, and I suggest Mr. Keegan contact the dealer to get it fixed.
It would be better to relocate the unit to a proper room on the second floor, where excess water vapor could be exausted. Some engineers feel there is enough ventilation in an attic to handle the heat or water vapor, but the Handyman is not convinced this is so.
Ms. Laurie's problem is similar, but with a furnace that is not working very well. A good dealer might be able to fix that, but better would be to relocate that furnace, even if it has a power vent through an attic wall or through the roof. You can insulate the furnace, but you cannot insulate an open gas flame. Therefore, sooner or later, the unit will pump out a lot of water vapor and possibly heat, causing possible growth of mold, and possibly ice dams.
gas furnace with a power vent could be located on the second floor. If the house is big enough, this should not be a problem.
more stories like this Finally, most houses are not so big that they need two heating or two air-conditioning units. A lot of big houses are heated and cooled by one unit. That may sound old-fashioned, but it works better than some of the new-fangled ideas that are floating round these days.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Safety Notification Rinnai and Greenheck Furnace Recall
Breaking News an Wall Furnace Recall
Furnaces Recalled for Carbon Monoxide, Fire Dangers
The U.S. Consumer Produces Safety Commission (CPSC) has issued two recalls for defective heating devices. Consumers should stop using the recalled products immediately. The CPSC, in cooperation with the manufacturer—Greenheck Fan Corporation of Schofield, Wisconsin—announced a voluntary recall of the Indirect Gas-Fired Furnaces. The recall affects 1,500 products and is due to the ignition control module which can fail, preventing the unit from shutting down in high temperature conditions. This malfunction poses a risk of fire, as well as hazardous fumes being released from burning or melting insulation. To date, no incidents or injuries have been reported.
The recall involves Greenheck Indirect Gas-Fired Furnaces models PVF, PVFH, IGX, IG, ERH, and ERCH. The model name can be found on either the control center door or the furnace door. The furnace is either natural gas or LP gas—propane—fueled. Only units with ignition control module model number 35-615922-125 are included in the recall. The Greenheck Fan Indirect Gas-Fired Furnaces were made in the United States and sold by sales representatives to mechanical contractors nationwide from November 2006 through October 2007 and retailed for between $2,000 and $100,000.
Property managers or job sites who/that have not been contacted by Greenheck Fan should contact the firm to arrange for a free repair. For additional information, contact Greenheck Fan at (800) 931-6579 between 8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. CT Monday through Friday or visit the firm’s Web site at www.greenheck.com
The CPSC also recalled Rinnai Wall Furnaces due to carbon monoxide hazards. In collaboration with Rinnai America Corporation of Peachtree City, Georgia, the CPSC announced a voluntary recall of the Direct-Vent Wall Furnaces, Models RHFE 431 and RHFE. Rinnai sold approximately 52,000 of the recalled Direct-Vent Wall Furnaces and received 11 reports of carbon monoxide leaking from the furnace; no injuries have been reported. The Direct-Vent Wall Furnace gasket in the unit can fail, posing a risk of poisonous carbon monoxide gas leaking into the home.
The recall involves Rinnai EnergySaver Direct-Vent Wall Furnaces, Models RHFE 431 and RHFE 556. They are either natural gas or LP gas—propane—fueled and involve the following models: Model RHFE-431: FAIII-N, FAIII-P, WRA-N, WTA-P, WTA-72B-N, and WTA-76B-N and Model RHFE-556: FAIII-N, FAIII-P, WTA-N, WTA-P. The model number is printed on the top of the rating plate which can be located on the right side of the unit. The recall only includes units manufactured from February 2000 through December 2007. The manufacturing date code is the first four digits of the serial number, written as YY MM and is located at the bottom of the rating plate.
The furnaces, which were manufactured in Japan, were sold by wholesale distributors nationwide to contractors and dealers from February 2000 through December 2007 for between $1,600 and $1,900. Consumers should stop using the furnace immediately and contact the firm to arrange for the installation of a free repair kit. For additional information, contact Rinnai toll-free at (866) 746-8344 anytime, or visit the firm’s Web site at www.wallfurnacerecall.com
Furnaces Recalled for Carbon Monoxide, Fire Dangers
The U.S. Consumer Produces Safety Commission (CPSC) has issued two recalls for defective heating devices. Consumers should stop using the recalled products immediately. The CPSC, in cooperation with the manufacturer—Greenheck Fan Corporation of Schofield, Wisconsin—announced a voluntary recall of the Indirect Gas-Fired Furnaces. The recall affects 1,500 products and is due to the ignition control module which can fail, preventing the unit from shutting down in high temperature conditions. This malfunction poses a risk of fire, as well as hazardous fumes being released from burning or melting insulation. To date, no incidents or injuries have been reported.
The recall involves Greenheck Indirect Gas-Fired Furnaces models PVF, PVFH, IGX, IG, ERH, and ERCH. The model name can be found on either the control center door or the furnace door. The furnace is either natural gas or LP gas—propane—fueled. Only units with ignition control module model number 35-615922-125 are included in the recall. The Greenheck Fan Indirect Gas-Fired Furnaces were made in the United States and sold by sales representatives to mechanical contractors nationwide from November 2006 through October 2007 and retailed for between $2,000 and $100,000.
Property managers or job sites who/that have not been contacted by Greenheck Fan should contact the firm to arrange for a free repair. For additional information, contact Greenheck Fan at (800) 931-6579 between 8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. CT Monday through Friday or visit the firm’s Web site at www.greenheck.com
The CPSC also recalled Rinnai Wall Furnaces due to carbon monoxide hazards. In collaboration with Rinnai America Corporation of Peachtree City, Georgia, the CPSC announced a voluntary recall of the Direct-Vent Wall Furnaces, Models RHFE 431 and RHFE. Rinnai sold approximately 52,000 of the recalled Direct-Vent Wall Furnaces and received 11 reports of carbon monoxide leaking from the furnace; no injuries have been reported. The Direct-Vent Wall Furnace gasket in the unit can fail, posing a risk of poisonous carbon monoxide gas leaking into the home.
The recall involves Rinnai EnergySaver Direct-Vent Wall Furnaces, Models RHFE 431 and RHFE 556. They are either natural gas or LP gas—propane—fueled and involve the following models: Model RHFE-431: FAIII-N, FAIII-P, WRA-N, WTA-P, WTA-72B-N, and WTA-76B-N and Model RHFE-556: FAIII-N, FAIII-P, WTA-N, WTA-P. The model number is printed on the top of the rating plate which can be located on the right side of the unit. The recall only includes units manufactured from February 2000 through December 2007. The manufacturing date code is the first four digits of the serial number, written as YY MM and is located at the bottom of the rating plate.
The furnaces, which were manufactured in Japan, were sold by wholesale distributors nationwide to contractors and dealers from February 2000 through December 2007 for between $1,600 and $1,900. Consumers should stop using the furnace immediately and contact the firm to arrange for the installation of a free repair kit. For additional information, contact Rinnai toll-free at (866) 746-8344 anytime, or visit the firm’s Web site at www.wallfurnacerecall.com
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Green HVAC
I always tell you there is no more effective way to impact your carbon footprint than to upgrade your home or office comfort system, buy a prius go solar or put a wind turbine in your backyard don't worry the neighbors won't mind.
Dollar for dollar nothing will make a bigger impact than getting the right HVAC system here are some people who agree.
Modern HVAC system improves air qualityEvery home, office polluted somewhat
During the past few years, people have become more health conscious about the environments in which they live and work on a daily basis. Stories about mold pollution in homes and offices dominated headlines and evening television news programs. This created an awareness and a demand for indoor air quality. Pure air in the home and the office promotes health, cleanliness and comfort.
Every home and office is polluted. Period, end of story. The degree of that pollution and an individual's ability to tolerate that pollution is the question. This is the individual's perception of comfort. Comfort is more than the temperature and air circulation in the room. Is this individual allergic to mold, dust, fungus or chemicals? How well does he or she breathe or sleep?
Just like the body's natural wear and tear we call arthritis, the continued exposure to indoor pollutants aggravates allergies and can be linked to asthma. Humidity and warmth can be a breeding ground for bacteria, mold and viruses, creating an atmosphere conducive to respiratory infection and other health hazards.
Organizations like the Environmental Protection Agency, the Mayo Clinic and the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology have studied the phenomenon of indoor pollution, discovering frightening details. Indoor pollution can be two, five or even 100 times worse than outdoor pollution. It is related to most chronic sinus problems and, in fact, the number of allergy and asthma sufferers has nearly doubled over the past 10 years.
Part of the problem is lifestyle, part is nature, part is technology. The way we live can contribute heavily to indoor pollution. While we love our pets, their fur traps dust, dirt, and insects among other things. There is no telling what we might track in after a day at work or a jog around the neighborhood -- did you walk through tall grass, mud or puddles? Is your house carpeted? How about your hamper? There's a reason why those socks and those towels smell -- the humidity, darkness and temperature make them a great habitat for bacteria and mold breeding.
Growing used to it
It's not just wear and tear.
Property owners come to expect discolored walls, water stains and dust on the ventilation ducts. They pass off as non-threatening something that might be a symptom of a larger problem. While discolored walls and dusty ventilation ducts indicate dirty air, water stains are telltale signs of leaks. Aside from discoloration and possible structural damage, again, the humidity and dark conditions between the walls create ideal breeding ground for mold and bacteria.
While more common in older houses, new homes are not immune to air quality problems. With new construction standards, the high-quality insulation seals aimed at HVAC efficiency have the side effect of trapping chemical vapors like paint, formaldehyde, solvent and cleaning products inside the house. Aerosols like hairspray and air freshener, hobby supplies like superglue and fuel products in the garage can give off toxic vapors that will stay in the home's atmosphere.
While opening a window seems like the best alternative to a stuffy house and stale air, it comes with its own set of complications, like weather, heat, bugs and pollen to name a few. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the fresher air from outside will circulate efficiently.
Make a plan
Before taking any kind of remedial action, it's best to study the situation. Indoor air quality (IAQ) companies, often branches of heating, ventilation and air-conditioning companies (HVAC), can perform air quality surveys with systems that sample and record the content and quality of the air in the home.
If some sort of remedial action is needed, these IAQ companies can suggest a complete strategy to neutralize chemical vapors, eliminate fungus and bacteria and circulate stagnant air. Cleaning the house is a good start, but that only cleans what's visible. Scheduling regular maintenance of your HVAC system can assure the integrity of ducts and seals, assuring that pollutants do not fall into the airflow. Changing air conditioning filters is another simple measure anyone can take, but there is still much that can be done to improve the conditions.
Free-standing or integrated High Efficiency Particle Arrest (HEPA) filters are an excellent way to trap the bulk of particulate matter floating in the air. Though small enough to trap grains of pollen or mold spores, the microscopic pores in a HEPA filter do little to neutralize chemical vapors. Coupled with an ionizer, an electrically charged metal screen, an HVAC system can break down harmful chemical compounds in the air. Some modern clean air systems even integrate a series of ultraviolet light inside the ducts which can destroy some harmful bacteria and fungi.
Indoor air quality is about balance. If the air is too dry, it can dry out throats and nasal passages; too wet and it creates an ideal environment for bacterial and fungal growth. Pets can bring cheer to our lives, but pet dander is a common allergen. We need our cleaning supplies, but their fumes can be toxic.
Modern HVAC equipment can address each of these issues. Minor changes in habits paired with a consultation from an Indoor Air Quality firm can determine the right strategy to assure air quality in the home or office. Measures exist to combat allergens and harmful chemicals to create a clean, healthy and comfortable living space.
Dollar for dollar nothing will make a bigger impact than getting the right HVAC system here are some people who agree.
Modern HVAC system improves air qualityEvery home, office polluted somewhat
During the past few years, people have become more health conscious about the environments in which they live and work on a daily basis. Stories about mold pollution in homes and offices dominated headlines and evening television news programs. This created an awareness and a demand for indoor air quality. Pure air in the home and the office promotes health, cleanliness and comfort.
Every home and office is polluted. Period, end of story. The degree of that pollution and an individual's ability to tolerate that pollution is the question. This is the individual's perception of comfort. Comfort is more than the temperature and air circulation in the room. Is this individual allergic to mold, dust, fungus or chemicals? How well does he or she breathe or sleep?
Just like the body's natural wear and tear we call arthritis, the continued exposure to indoor pollutants aggravates allergies and can be linked to asthma. Humidity and warmth can be a breeding ground for bacteria, mold and viruses, creating an atmosphere conducive to respiratory infection and other health hazards.
Organizations like the Environmental Protection Agency, the Mayo Clinic and the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology have studied the phenomenon of indoor pollution, discovering frightening details. Indoor pollution can be two, five or even 100 times worse than outdoor pollution. It is related to most chronic sinus problems and, in fact, the number of allergy and asthma sufferers has nearly doubled over the past 10 years.
Part of the problem is lifestyle, part is nature, part is technology. The way we live can contribute heavily to indoor pollution. While we love our pets, their fur traps dust, dirt, and insects among other things. There is no telling what we might track in after a day at work or a jog around the neighborhood -- did you walk through tall grass, mud or puddles? Is your house carpeted? How about your hamper? There's a reason why those socks and those towels smell -- the humidity, darkness and temperature make them a great habitat for bacteria and mold breeding.
Growing used to it
It's not just wear and tear.
Property owners come to expect discolored walls, water stains and dust on the ventilation ducts. They pass off as non-threatening something that might be a symptom of a larger problem. While discolored walls and dusty ventilation ducts indicate dirty air, water stains are telltale signs of leaks. Aside from discoloration and possible structural damage, again, the humidity and dark conditions between the walls create ideal breeding ground for mold and bacteria.
While more common in older houses, new homes are not immune to air quality problems. With new construction standards, the high-quality insulation seals aimed at HVAC efficiency have the side effect of trapping chemical vapors like paint, formaldehyde, solvent and cleaning products inside the house. Aerosols like hairspray and air freshener, hobby supplies like superglue and fuel products in the garage can give off toxic vapors that will stay in the home's atmosphere.
While opening a window seems like the best alternative to a stuffy house and stale air, it comes with its own set of complications, like weather, heat, bugs and pollen to name a few. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the fresher air from outside will circulate efficiently.
Make a plan
Before taking any kind of remedial action, it's best to study the situation. Indoor air quality (IAQ) companies, often branches of heating, ventilation and air-conditioning companies (HVAC), can perform air quality surveys with systems that sample and record the content and quality of the air in the home.
If some sort of remedial action is needed, these IAQ companies can suggest a complete strategy to neutralize chemical vapors, eliminate fungus and bacteria and circulate stagnant air. Cleaning the house is a good start, but that only cleans what's visible. Scheduling regular maintenance of your HVAC system can assure the integrity of ducts and seals, assuring that pollutants do not fall into the airflow. Changing air conditioning filters is another simple measure anyone can take, but there is still much that can be done to improve the conditions.
Free-standing or integrated High Efficiency Particle Arrest (HEPA) filters are an excellent way to trap the bulk of particulate matter floating in the air. Though small enough to trap grains of pollen or mold spores, the microscopic pores in a HEPA filter do little to neutralize chemical vapors. Coupled with an ionizer, an electrically charged metal screen, an HVAC system can break down harmful chemical compounds in the air. Some modern clean air systems even integrate a series of ultraviolet light inside the ducts which can destroy some harmful bacteria and fungi.
Indoor air quality is about balance. If the air is too dry, it can dry out throats and nasal passages; too wet and it creates an ideal environment for bacterial and fungal growth. Pets can bring cheer to our lives, but pet dander is a common allergen. We need our cleaning supplies, but their fumes can be toxic.
Modern HVAC equipment can address each of these issues. Minor changes in habits paired with a consultation from an Indoor Air Quality firm can determine the right strategy to assure air quality in the home or office. Measures exist to combat allergens and harmful chemicals to create a clean, healthy and comfortable living space.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
South Africans forced to Go Green
Our friends in South Africa are finding new ways to save money and save the planet at the same time see what you think.
South Africa: New Focus on 'Green Building'
Business Day (Johannesburg)
13 February 2008
Posted to the web 14 February 2008
Johannesburg
THE electricity supply crisis is giving developers an incentive to adopt "green building" principles in their new property developments.
The newly established Green Building Council of SA says it believes that the electricity supply crisis is probably the "biggest promotion for green building that we can get".
The City of Johannesburg also announced this week that it was introducing new requirements to ensure greater energy efficiency in new developments.
Philip Harrison, executive director: development planning and urban management, said new developments would need to include alternative energy sources or energy-saving devices. Building plans would be evaluated in terms of these measures.
Europe has in the past embraced "green building" concepts far more readily than SA because of high base energy costs.
Historically, SA's power has been cheap. However, the electricity supply crisis and power utility Eskom's move to create adequate electrical infrastructure is set to make electricity costs soar during the next five years.
Now, more than ever, the relatively expensive "green building" concept is going to look a lot more attractive to developers and landlords because of escalating electricity costs.
David Lewis, MD of listed property loan stock company Diversified Property Fund, said that in Europe alternative energy technologies such as solar heating and wind generation had been more cost-effective because of the high power costs.
"SA has always had very low energy costs and electricity costs have never really been an issue.
"This is borne out by the example of aluminium smelters, which are huge consumers of electricity, choosing Mozambique and SA for operations because of their low energy costs," said Lewis.
He said Eskom had warned that SA's electricity costs were going to increase up to 20% a year for the next five years and that the country's property developers were going to find themselves with no choice but to start seeking out alternative, more environmentally friendly forms of energy.
Another incentive is that electricity load-shedding makes 100% reliance on the power supply an unattractive and risky prospect. "It's going to start making alternative technologies a lot more appealing to property developers, landlords and the public in general," Lewis said.
"More and more users are going to look at solar water heating, which is expensive up front. But rising energy costs are going to make payback shorter."
Lewis said another focus area would be a way of reducing the energy consumed by air conditioners through alternative energy sources.
Air conditioning can constitute up to 60% of a typical electricity bill, particularly in the retail property environment.
Norbert Sasse, CEO of listed property loan stock company Growthpoint Properties, said that as a "natural consequence of the electricity crisis, and with a multifaceted approach to being more energy efficient, it links in beautifully with the whole drive towards a green building initiative".
"As you are now having to understand the electricity issues of a particular building, you are going to bring into your thinking the possible redesign of it -- the use of solar energy and the use of natural light," Sasse said.
Bruce Kerswill, executive chairman of the Green Building Council of SA -- which was established in September last year to promote green building programmes, technologies, design practices and operations and innovation in sustainable building practices -- said the electricity crisis was "forcing everybody who up to now hasn't been looking at energy efficiency to seriously reconsider".
"Of course people are also starting to explore the idea of alternative energy sources, which because of the low electricity prices haven't been economically viable," Kerswill said.
"Everybody understands that electricity prices can't stay where they are and there is this whole supply issue," he said.
He said the "exciting thing" about a new building was that a developer could achieve much in terms of saving energy just by careful design, at no extra cost.
"Using natural light, just the way you design windows, facades, shading and screening, can reduce the heat load of a building."
Kerswill said there was "potentially" an opportunity to reposition the country as a "progressive force" in the green building field and stimulate a whole new sector of the economy.
"It's going to need deregulation of the electricity sector, as well as some tax incentives. You could stimulate a big industry out of this such as manufacturing of solar water heating, solar panels, energy-efficient lighting, energy- efficient air conditioning components. It's potentially a very big sector and there is now internal demand for these services, given the power cuts," he said.
Relevant Links
Southern Africa
Economy, Business and Finance
Energy
South Africa
Marna van der Walt, president of commercial property association Sapoa, said many businesses were realising that back-up generators were simply not a sustainable solution in the long term.
"Apart from the capital outlay, they cost double the Eskom rate to run," Van der Walt said.
"We need to find viable, alternative sources of renewable energy, as is being done in Europe and North America -- such as solar or wind energy."
South Africa: New Focus on 'Green Building'
Business Day (Johannesburg)
13 February 2008
Posted to the web 14 February 2008
Johannesburg
THE electricity supply crisis is giving developers an incentive to adopt "green building" principles in their new property developments.
The newly established Green Building Council of SA says it believes that the electricity supply crisis is probably the "biggest promotion for green building that we can get".
The City of Johannesburg also announced this week that it was introducing new requirements to ensure greater energy efficiency in new developments.
Philip Harrison, executive director: development planning and urban management, said new developments would need to include alternative energy sources or energy-saving devices. Building plans would be evaluated in terms of these measures.
Europe has in the past embraced "green building" concepts far more readily than SA because of high base energy costs.
Historically, SA's power has been cheap. However, the electricity supply crisis and power utility Eskom's move to create adequate electrical infrastructure is set to make electricity costs soar during the next five years.
Now, more than ever, the relatively expensive "green building" concept is going to look a lot more attractive to developers and landlords because of escalating electricity costs.
David Lewis, MD of listed property loan stock company Diversified Property Fund, said that in Europe alternative energy technologies such as solar heating and wind generation had been more cost-effective because of the high power costs.
"SA has always had very low energy costs and electricity costs have never really been an issue.
"This is borne out by the example of aluminium smelters, which are huge consumers of electricity, choosing Mozambique and SA for operations because of their low energy costs," said Lewis.
He said Eskom had warned that SA's electricity costs were going to increase up to 20% a year for the next five years and that the country's property developers were going to find themselves with no choice but to start seeking out alternative, more environmentally friendly forms of energy.
Another incentive is that electricity load-shedding makes 100% reliance on the power supply an unattractive and risky prospect. "It's going to start making alternative technologies a lot more appealing to property developers, landlords and the public in general," Lewis said.
"More and more users are going to look at solar water heating, which is expensive up front. But rising energy costs are going to make payback shorter."
Lewis said another focus area would be a way of reducing the energy consumed by air conditioners through alternative energy sources.
Air conditioning can constitute up to 60% of a typical electricity bill, particularly in the retail property environment.
Norbert Sasse, CEO of listed property loan stock company Growthpoint Properties, said that as a "natural consequence of the electricity crisis, and with a multifaceted approach to being more energy efficient, it links in beautifully with the whole drive towards a green building initiative".
"As you are now having to understand the electricity issues of a particular building, you are going to bring into your thinking the possible redesign of it -- the use of solar energy and the use of natural light," Sasse said.
Bruce Kerswill, executive chairman of the Green Building Council of SA -- which was established in September last year to promote green building programmes, technologies, design practices and operations and innovation in sustainable building practices -- said the electricity crisis was "forcing everybody who up to now hasn't been looking at energy efficiency to seriously reconsider".
"Of course people are also starting to explore the idea of alternative energy sources, which because of the low electricity prices haven't been economically viable," Kerswill said.
"Everybody understands that electricity prices can't stay where they are and there is this whole supply issue," he said.
He said the "exciting thing" about a new building was that a developer could achieve much in terms of saving energy just by careful design, at no extra cost.
"Using natural light, just the way you design windows, facades, shading and screening, can reduce the heat load of a building."
Kerswill said there was "potentially" an opportunity to reposition the country as a "progressive force" in the green building field and stimulate a whole new sector of the economy.
"It's going to need deregulation of the electricity sector, as well as some tax incentives. You could stimulate a big industry out of this such as manufacturing of solar water heating, solar panels, energy-efficient lighting, energy- efficient air conditioning components. It's potentially a very big sector and there is now internal demand for these services, given the power cuts," he said.
Relevant Links
Southern Africa
Economy, Business and Finance
Energy
South Africa
Marna van der Walt, president of commercial property association Sapoa, said many businesses were realising that back-up generators were simply not a sustainable solution in the long term.
"Apart from the capital outlay, they cost double the Eskom rate to run," Van der Walt said.
"We need to find viable, alternative sources of renewable energy, as is being done in Europe and North America -- such as solar or wind energy."
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Leaking ductwork the silent enemy
Leaking ductwork is the silent enemy and probably one of the main causes for a variety of common Homeowner complaints such as, uneven temperatures, unit not keeping up on hot or cold days, poor indoor air quality, high utility bills, etc.
Improperly installed ductwork can easily account for all these issues and it is a problem that gets little attention because most times the problems are covered up with insulation or tape and service men typical look for mechanical explanations to issues instead of focusing on simple quality installation practices.
Here is an article illustrating this point.
Published on Saturday, Feb 16, 2008
Q: A local heating company did an inspection of our system recently and it said we had some holes and rips in our ductwork. When I told the inspectors that my wife and I had both been sick on and off for months, they said this could be the problem. Can that be right?
A: It sure can. I get a lot of mail about ducts, mostly related to high energy bills and frequent commercials by duct-cleaning and repair companies. Most people seem aware of the connection between leaky ducts and wasted energy, and ducts are certainly one of the most important potential problems resulting in high utility bills. But people often are not aware of the effects of poor ducts on a home's indoor air quality.
People usually realize that ducts need to be properly sealed to keep air flowing from the heating and air-conditioning system without escaping into the attic, garage or other places inside and out of the home. But the unwanted airflow goes the other way, too. Leaks in ducts can draw in dust, pollen, humidity and other unwanted things from the attic, crawl space and other parts of your home as well as from the outdoors and then distribute this throughout the house.
The bottom line is that if an inspection of the ducts shows that they are leaky, you have to get them fixed. Ducts that are not tightly sealed will basically wipe out any other efforts you're making to save energy and make your home more comfortable.
There are a number of other factors that affect indoor air quality as well, and you ought to think about these if you've been feeling sick at home. Strategies for keeping indoor air clean include vacuuming carpets and furniture on a regular basis (an allergen-trapping vacuum cleaner is a good investment), changing the bed sheets and pillowcases every week, storing food in airtight containers to keep roaches and other pests away, inspecting the filters on the heating and cooling system monthly and changing them when necessary, and stopping smoking and burning incense and candles indoors. Also be sure to use your kitchen exhaust fans when cooking, and keep cleaning products, paint and other products that give off fumes in the garage or outdoors.
Improperly installed ductwork can easily account for all these issues and it is a problem that gets little attention because most times the problems are covered up with insulation or tape and service men typical look for mechanical explanations to issues instead of focusing on simple quality installation practices.
Here is an article illustrating this point.
Published on Saturday, Feb 16, 2008
Q: A local heating company did an inspection of our system recently and it said we had some holes and rips in our ductwork. When I told the inspectors that my wife and I had both been sick on and off for months, they said this could be the problem. Can that be right?
A: It sure can. I get a lot of mail about ducts, mostly related to high energy bills and frequent commercials by duct-cleaning and repair companies. Most people seem aware of the connection between leaky ducts and wasted energy, and ducts are certainly one of the most important potential problems resulting in high utility bills. But people often are not aware of the effects of poor ducts on a home's indoor air quality.
People usually realize that ducts need to be properly sealed to keep air flowing from the heating and air-conditioning system without escaping into the attic, garage or other places inside and out of the home. But the unwanted airflow goes the other way, too. Leaks in ducts can draw in dust, pollen, humidity and other unwanted things from the attic, crawl space and other parts of your home as well as from the outdoors and then distribute this throughout the house.
The bottom line is that if an inspection of the ducts shows that they are leaky, you have to get them fixed. Ducts that are not tightly sealed will basically wipe out any other efforts you're making to save energy and make your home more comfortable.
There are a number of other factors that affect indoor air quality as well, and you ought to think about these if you've been feeling sick at home. Strategies for keeping indoor air clean include vacuuming carpets and furniture on a regular basis (an allergen-trapping vacuum cleaner is a good investment), changing the bed sheets and pillowcases every week, storing food in airtight containers to keep roaches and other pests away, inspecting the filters on the heating and cooling system monthly and changing them when necessary, and stopping smoking and burning incense and candles indoors. Also be sure to use your kitchen exhaust fans when cooking, and keep cleaning products, paint and other products that give off fumes in the garage or outdoors.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Design help to optimize Heat Pump Performance
Heat Pumps 'Go With The Flow' To Boost Output
ScienceDaily (Jan. 29, 2008) — Air-source heat pumps typically deliver 1 1/2 to three times more heating energy to a home than the electric energy they consume. This is possible because heat pumps move heat rather than convert it from a fuel (as combustion heating systems do). National Institute for Standards and Technology (NIST) researchers are working to improve the performance of these energy superstars even further by providing engineers with computer-based tools for optimizing heat exchanger designs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
See also:
Matter & Energy
Thermodynamics
Nature of Water
Aviation
Earth & Climate
Environmental Science
Air Quality
Air Pollution
Reference
Heat pump
Refrigerant
Air conditioning
Neon
In a typical air-source heat pump, air flows over two refrigerant-filled heat exchangers (known as coils): one indoor and the other outdoor, both of which have metal fins to aid heat transfer. In the heating mode, liquid refrigerant within the outside coil extracts heat from the air and the refrigerant evaporates into a gas. The indoor coil releases heat from the refrigerant as it condenses back into a liquid. A valve near the compressor can change the direction of the refrigerant flow for cooling.
Performance of air-to-refrigerant heat exchangers can be reduced by uneven air flow distribution. However, performance degradation can be significantly avoided by design changes that increase refrigerant flow in areas that receive more air. To achieve this, one must ascertain the actual air distribution in a given system.
NIST researchers have developed a testing apparatus that uses a high-resolution camera to track--with laser-illuminated dust particles--the motion and distribution of air flow in finned-tube heat exchangers. Data from these highly accurate laboratory experiments are being compared with computer simulations of air flow performed with computational fluid dynamics (CFD) software. Once accurate CFD models are developed and validated, engineers could use them as the basis for design changes to coil assemblies and refrigerant circuitries to accommodate the existing air distribution.
The NIST program, partially sponsored by the Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Technology Institute (ARTI) under a Cooperative Research and Development Agreement (CRADA), could increase finned-tube heat exchanger heating or cooling capacity by five percent, resulting in improved heat pump efficiency. Additionally, such improvements could allow manufacturers to reduce the heat exchanger size, thereby reducing material cost and the amount of refrigerant needed. The NIST study results on home air-source heat pumps will be issued in 2009 and are also expected to be applicable to large heat exchangers used in commercial buildings and refrigeration systems.
ScienceDaily (Jan. 29, 2008) — Air-source heat pumps typically deliver 1 1/2 to three times more heating energy to a home than the electric energy they consume. This is possible because heat pumps move heat rather than convert it from a fuel (as combustion heating systems do). National Institute for Standards and Technology (NIST) researchers are working to improve the performance of these energy superstars even further by providing engineers with computer-based tools for optimizing heat exchanger designs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
See also:
Matter & Energy
Thermodynamics
Nature of Water
Aviation
Earth & Climate
Environmental Science
Air Quality
Air Pollution
Reference
Heat pump
Refrigerant
Air conditioning
Neon
In a typical air-source heat pump, air flows over two refrigerant-filled heat exchangers (known as coils): one indoor and the other outdoor, both of which have metal fins to aid heat transfer. In the heating mode, liquid refrigerant within the outside coil extracts heat from the air and the refrigerant evaporates into a gas. The indoor coil releases heat from the refrigerant as it condenses back into a liquid. A valve near the compressor can change the direction of the refrigerant flow for cooling.
Performance of air-to-refrigerant heat exchangers can be reduced by uneven air flow distribution. However, performance degradation can be significantly avoided by design changes that increase refrigerant flow in areas that receive more air. To achieve this, one must ascertain the actual air distribution in a given system.
NIST researchers have developed a testing apparatus that uses a high-resolution camera to track--with laser-illuminated dust particles--the motion and distribution of air flow in finned-tube heat exchangers. Data from these highly accurate laboratory experiments are being compared with computer simulations of air flow performed with computational fluid dynamics (CFD) software. Once accurate CFD models are developed and validated, engineers could use them as the basis for design changes to coil assemblies and refrigerant circuitries to accommodate the existing air distribution.
The NIST program, partially sponsored by the Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Technology Institute (ARTI) under a Cooperative Research and Development Agreement (CRADA), could increase finned-tube heat exchanger heating or cooling capacity by five percent, resulting in improved heat pump efficiency. Additionally, such improvements could allow manufacturers to reduce the heat exchanger size, thereby reducing material cost and the amount of refrigerant needed. The NIST study results on home air-source heat pumps will be issued in 2009 and are also expected to be applicable to large heat exchangers used in commercial buildings and refrigeration systems.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Helpful hints when the Heat won't come
Maybe you are sitting on your couch on Saturday night and you notice it. You notice it's getting colder and then you think it's just your imagination so you get up and turn it up four degrees then you wait and you still feel cold so screw around with it for an hour. Finally you decide you need some help and you start making phone calls but it's 8:30 on Saturday night and your wife yells at you because she told you to call someone 2 hours ago and now you can't get anyone to answer the phone and who you gonna call. HMMM.
Maybe this will help.
jjtritt
Heil Furance Help Needed eletronic ignition
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi all I have a Heil furance #ndg1075df01 and my problem is not too serious yet but concering to me.
Sometimes the furnace will try to ignite several times before it lights? My impression on this is that the pilot light is not staying lit so the eletronic ignition is trying to relight it.
Any one have any clue as what to look for? or replace?
I cleaned the main burners out about 3 years ago they had some loose rust blocking the holes.
Thanks
Jim
mike n
Furnace Repair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hot surface or spark ignition?
You can take it apart and clean it first then if problem persists you could change out the pilot assembly if you can find your local heil or tempstar distributor but unless you make concrete determinations you are just guessing til you get it right.
titanicslim
Furnace won't stay lit
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi-
I've got an old floor furnace (too poor to get central heat yet) and it won't burn for more than a few seconds. The thermostat is OK (new, I replaced it) but when the furnace lights, it only stays lit for a few seconds at most- sometimes just goes off as soon as it lights. Getting a mite cold in here
Any idea what could be causing this?
Thanks,
Dave
Hate to say this but....did you make sure all the covers are correctly closed ? sometimes as a safety feature they will not stay lite.
Did the furnace work correctly before you replaced the thermostat or has this started once you replaced it ?
What brand and model is it ?
Does it have a pilot light or is it electronic ignition?
pushkins
titanicslim
No covers. It just sits there under a grate in the floor. The only brand I can see is "Louisville" and yes, it was doing the same thing before I replaced the thermostat. It seems to work fine.
mike n
Furnace Repair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is a safety tripping and telling your furnace to shut off
Fixing a floor furnace is not the smartest mave either financially or from a safety standpoint.
If you feel like you have to get this working I would look at the venting (flue pipe etc.) or whatever flame recognition technology it has
mike n
titanicslim
Thanks, Mike. I'm kind of stuck with it for now, but the plan is to replace it ASAP. And on some of the Winter's coldest nights. It's OK- I got a big dog
Furnace Burners won't ignite
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a Rheem Criterion Furnace, Model RGDG-10EAMER that has been giving me problems lately.
The burners will not always light. The igniter comes on and glows red hot, I can hear the sensor trip the value to release the gas to ignite, but there is not ignition of the burners. It will cycle and the blower will start but still the burners will not start. I have cleand the furnace checked the wiring and the IIBC board, the green light comes on to show there is power to the board. After tinkering with it for a while and vaccumming out the furnance and have turned off the gas and the value and the power swith to the furance and then turning it all back on it will light ( I think it has more to do with the time lapse of having everything tunred off and not any I really did), but it will run for the day and cycle several times throughout the day, but it eventually stop again and I go through the same process again and it will ignite again, but of course it will stop again until I go through the same steps. Any ideas of what is causing the problem
HayZee518
ok, you have a hot surface igniter. you may also have a millivolt generator to sense the pilot flame. -or- there may be NO pilot flame - just a flame rod to detect the presence of the main flame. check to see which type of flame sense you have. a flame rod senses a flame by the ionized gas between the rod and chassis ground. if the rod is covered with soot it will not work.
HayZee518
Thanks for your information. How can I tell if it is a Rod or a millivolt generator? I have read something about a flame rod before, but it said it would be in the last burner, I can not see anything in any of the burners ( not sure which one is the last one, or if I am looking in the right place. Is it in the part that delivers the gas or in the part in which the blame burns into? Can seam to see a rod in either place.) There is no standing pilot flame. There is only ignition when the igniter heats up and then gas is released to ignite the burners.
HayZee518
ok, then judgung fromwhat you said the flame sense is a flame rod. the hot surface igniter is set close to the main burner. within a time delay period the igniter heats up and gas is supposed to be released. a flame rod is set close to but not necessarily within the flame itself. if your burner fails to light I would check out the surface igniter - its resistance has to be within engineered limits and the electronic control board for the burner.
HayZee518
mike n
Furnace Problems
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I don't think the problem has anything to do with flame detection as you are describing the flame never lights are you actually hearing gas flow after the igniter heats up or are you hearing the valve click, describe the failure sequence again for me please and is it nat. or LP
__________________
Beer is not just for breakfast anymore...
mike n
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sequence is as follows. The burner will ignite for the day several times durning the day and then suddenly it will not ignite, in fact I believe after a while it does not even try to ignite any more. I have changed the filter vaccummed out the furnance and cleaned it up. In order to get it to ignite again, I turn of the the gas value that set on what in the old days looks like the old pilot light where you would have to turn it and hold it while lighting the pilot, in this case it is just a simple ON or OFF with electrical leads. I also turn off the main value (on the pipe) that goes to the furnace and I flip the electrical switch to off. After it sits for a while, I turn on the gas value in the furnace the gas value leading to the furnace and then the electrical swith. The igniter heats up and you hear the value click (no sound of gas being released) the burners don't ignite and the igniter goes off and it cycle through this few more times and nothing. After letting it for a while longer I try the same process and it will light and will continue to ignite for the day until suddenly once again it will not ignite and the process begins all over.
This is furnance that burns natural gas.
Thanks for your input!
HayZee518
I have a propane gas stove that did the same thing you described. My problem was that the igniter leads weren't making a good connection. The hot surface igniter would glow but the main valve would not open at all. I took out the igniter and squeezed the connector as hard as I could and it worked a fw more times then quit completely. It got red but the main valve would not open. I bought a new igniter and installed it and it fired up immediately. This was five years ago and it's still working.
HayZee518
mike n
Bad Gas
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When you say that you hear no gas that tells me to look there so if you have a meter you can check on the two or three wires going to that valve, if there are two wires easy just check with your meter set to volts ac when the hot surface ignitor is glowing good and red you should read 24 volts across those two leads if you do and no gas is coming out your gas valve is sticking if there are three wires it is a little trickier you have to find the wire to the pilot valve and the common the other valve will be for main gas same deal about the voltage if you dont have 24 volts and no safeties are open then you may have a bad control board or wiring connection you need to follow the wiring back to make sure no loose connection.
__________________
Beer is not just for breakfast anymore...
Maybe this will help.
jjtritt
Heil Furance Help Needed eletronic ignition
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi all I have a Heil furance #ndg1075df01 and my problem is not too serious yet but concering to me.
Sometimes the furnace will try to ignite several times before it lights? My impression on this is that the pilot light is not staying lit so the eletronic ignition is trying to relight it.
Any one have any clue as what to look for? or replace?
I cleaned the main burners out about 3 years ago they had some loose rust blocking the holes.
Thanks
Jim
mike n
Furnace Repair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hot surface or spark ignition?
You can take it apart and clean it first then if problem persists you could change out the pilot assembly if you can find your local heil or tempstar distributor but unless you make concrete determinations you are just guessing til you get it right.
titanicslim
Furnace won't stay lit
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi-
I've got an old floor furnace (too poor to get central heat yet) and it won't burn for more than a few seconds. The thermostat is OK (new, I replaced it) but when the furnace lights, it only stays lit for a few seconds at most- sometimes just goes off as soon as it lights. Getting a mite cold in here
Any idea what could be causing this?
Thanks,
Dave
Hate to say this but....did you make sure all the covers are correctly closed ? sometimes as a safety feature they will not stay lite.
Did the furnace work correctly before you replaced the thermostat or has this started once you replaced it ?
What brand and model is it ?
Does it have a pilot light or is it electronic ignition?
pushkins
titanicslim
No covers. It just sits there under a grate in the floor. The only brand I can see is "Louisville" and yes, it was doing the same thing before I replaced the thermostat. It seems to work fine.
mike n
Furnace Repair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is a safety tripping and telling your furnace to shut off
Fixing a floor furnace is not the smartest mave either financially or from a safety standpoint.
If you feel like you have to get this working I would look at the venting (flue pipe etc.) or whatever flame recognition technology it has
mike n
titanicslim
Thanks, Mike. I'm kind of stuck with it for now, but the plan is to replace it ASAP. And on some of the Winter's coldest nights. It's OK- I got a big dog
Furnace Burners won't ignite
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a Rheem Criterion Furnace, Model RGDG-10EAMER that has been giving me problems lately.
The burners will not always light. The igniter comes on and glows red hot, I can hear the sensor trip the value to release the gas to ignite, but there is not ignition of the burners. It will cycle and the blower will start but still the burners will not start. I have cleand the furnace checked the wiring and the IIBC board, the green light comes on to show there is power to the board. After tinkering with it for a while and vaccumming out the furnance and have turned off the gas and the value and the power swith to the furance and then turning it all back on it will light ( I think it has more to do with the time lapse of having everything tunred off and not any I really did), but it will run for the day and cycle several times throughout the day, but it eventually stop again and I go through the same process again and it will ignite again, but of course it will stop again until I go through the same steps. Any ideas of what is causing the problem
HayZee518
ok, you have a hot surface igniter. you may also have a millivolt generator to sense the pilot flame. -or- there may be NO pilot flame - just a flame rod to detect the presence of the main flame. check to see which type of flame sense you have. a flame rod senses a flame by the ionized gas between the rod and chassis ground. if the rod is covered with soot it will not work.
HayZee518
Thanks for your information. How can I tell if it is a Rod or a millivolt generator? I have read something about a flame rod before, but it said it would be in the last burner, I can not see anything in any of the burners ( not sure which one is the last one, or if I am looking in the right place. Is it in the part that delivers the gas or in the part in which the blame burns into? Can seam to see a rod in either place.) There is no standing pilot flame. There is only ignition when the igniter heats up and then gas is released to ignite the burners.
HayZee518
ok, then judgung fromwhat you said the flame sense is a flame rod. the hot surface igniter is set close to the main burner. within a time delay period the igniter heats up and gas is supposed to be released. a flame rod is set close to but not necessarily within the flame itself. if your burner fails to light I would check out the surface igniter - its resistance has to be within engineered limits and the electronic control board for the burner.
HayZee518
mike n
Furnace Problems
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't think the problem has anything to do with flame detection as you are describing the flame never lights are you actually hearing gas flow after the igniter heats up or are you hearing the valve click, describe the failure sequence again for me please and is it nat. or LP
__________________
Beer is not just for breakfast anymore...
mike n
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sequence is as follows. The burner will ignite for the day several times durning the day and then suddenly it will not ignite, in fact I believe after a while it does not even try to ignite any more. I have changed the filter vaccummed out the furnance and cleaned it up. In order to get it to ignite again, I turn of the the gas value that set on what in the old days looks like the old pilot light where you would have to turn it and hold it while lighting the pilot, in this case it is just a simple ON or OFF with electrical leads. I also turn off the main value (on the pipe) that goes to the furnace and I flip the electrical switch to off. After it sits for a while, I turn on the gas value in the furnace the gas value leading to the furnace and then the electrical swith. The igniter heats up and you hear the value click (no sound of gas being released) the burners don't ignite and the igniter goes off and it cycle through this few more times and nothing. After letting it for a while longer I try the same process and it will light and will continue to ignite for the day until suddenly once again it will not ignite and the process begins all over.
This is furnance that burns natural gas.
Thanks for your input!
HayZee518
I have a propane gas stove that did the same thing you described. My problem was that the igniter leads weren't making a good connection. The hot surface igniter would glow but the main valve would not open at all. I took out the igniter and squeezed the connector as hard as I could and it worked a fw more times then quit completely. It got red but the main valve would not open. I bought a new igniter and installed it and it fired up immediately. This was five years ago and it's still working.
HayZee518
mike n
Bad Gas
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When you say that you hear no gas that tells me to look there so if you have a meter you can check on the two or three wires going to that valve, if there are two wires easy just check with your meter set to volts ac when the hot surface ignitor is glowing good and red you should read 24 volts across those two leads if you do and no gas is coming out your gas valve is sticking if there are three wires it is a little trickier you have to find the wire to the pilot valve and the common the other valve will be for main gas same deal about the voltage if you dont have 24 volts and no safeties are open then you may have a bad control board or wiring connection you need to follow the wiring back to make sure no loose connection.
__________________
Beer is not just for breakfast anymore...
Green Up Your Home and Save
I know those energy bills are weighing heavy on you right now but here are a few ways to help and remember some of them the government will help you pay for.
Some low-cost ways to drop your energy bill
One of the problems with suggesting ways to drop one's energy bill is that the savings are generally small and incremental. Consequently, many money-saving methods can end up costing you more (at least in the first year) than they save.
That having been said, there are many reasons to invest a little bit of money in one's abode. First off, if you own your home, or plan on renting it for a few years, the initial expenditure will pay off much larger dividends over time. Second, plugging up leaks and insulating your space decreases drafts and hot water outages, greatly improving the quality of your life. If you've ever been awakened by your own shivering, ran out of hot water in the middle of a shower, or found yourself swearing at your utility bills, then you know what I'm talking about.
Without any further ado, here are a few simple (and relatively inexpensive) ways to reduce your utility bills:
Insulate Your Water Heater
Okay, I can't stress this one enough. If your water heater feels hot to the touch, then you are throwing away money. Most home repair places sell water heater blankets for $10-15. These are, essentially, sheets of plastic-backed insulation that you duct tape around your water heater. It takes about twenty minutes to do, and will save you about...you guessed it, $10-15 per year. However, you only have to insulate the heater once, and the savings will accumulate for as long as you live in your home.
Incidentally, if your hot-water pipes run through a cold basement, then you are also losing energy there. Pipe insulation isn't too expensive, and will ensure that the water you're paying to heat stays hot. You'll find this particularly wonderful when your hot shower lasts for an extra couple of minutes!
Seal Air Leaks
Caulking, silicone insulation, and foam insulation are all pretty cheap, but sealing the large leaks around doorways and windows will save you a ton of money. This one's pretty simple. If you can feel a draft, chances are that your window sill or door frame is leaky. According to some sites, closing off these drafts can reduce your electric bill by as much as $80 per year.
Unfortunately, I've found that caulking is a job for warmer weather. In the dead of winter, the caulk might not cure properly. If it's too late in the season to do your caulking outdoors, consider shrink-wrapping your windows. Most DIY centers carry window-wrapping kits, which make it easy to create an insulating air barrier in your window. This will reduce drafts, massively drop your heating bill, and generally make your home a warmer, fuzzier place to be.
Efficient Shower Heads
Seinfeld once had a low-flow showerhead episode. Basically, Seinfeld's landlord secretly replaced all the showerheads in the building, which led to insufficient rinsing, greasy hair, and all sorts of misery.
Watching the episode, I completely understood. Personally, I go back and forth between soft, relaxing showers and powerful, tearing-your-skin-off, monster showers. When the water pressure is too low, I resort to all sorts of byzantine solutions -- covering up holes, bending the hose, and so forth. That having been said, it is, indeed, possible to have a low-flow shower with a great deal of water pressure. The solution is finding one that properly aerates your water. Personally, I have a low-flow Waterpik showerhead that gives me the option of a high or low pressure stream. It's made me very, very happy.
The savings from low-flow showerheads are nominal. While you will probably shave about $20 per year off your water bill, the showerheads will run you at least that much. However, since a good showerhead will last for years, you should be able to enjoy the savings for quite some time. Besides that, you may discover that you enjoy the comfort of a specialized shower: I liked mine so much that I took it with me when I moved!
Some low-cost ways to drop your energy bill
One of the problems with suggesting ways to drop one's energy bill is that the savings are generally small and incremental. Consequently, many money-saving methods can end up costing you more (at least in the first year) than they save.
That having been said, there are many reasons to invest a little bit of money in one's abode. First off, if you own your home, or plan on renting it for a few years, the initial expenditure will pay off much larger dividends over time. Second, plugging up leaks and insulating your space decreases drafts and hot water outages, greatly improving the quality of your life. If you've ever been awakened by your own shivering, ran out of hot water in the middle of a shower, or found yourself swearing at your utility bills, then you know what I'm talking about.
Without any further ado, here are a few simple (and relatively inexpensive) ways to reduce your utility bills:
Insulate Your Water Heater
Okay, I can't stress this one enough. If your water heater feels hot to the touch, then you are throwing away money. Most home repair places sell water heater blankets for $10-15. These are, essentially, sheets of plastic-backed insulation that you duct tape around your water heater. It takes about twenty minutes to do, and will save you about...you guessed it, $10-15 per year. However, you only have to insulate the heater once, and the savings will accumulate for as long as you live in your home.
Incidentally, if your hot-water pipes run through a cold basement, then you are also losing energy there. Pipe insulation isn't too expensive, and will ensure that the water you're paying to heat stays hot. You'll find this particularly wonderful when your hot shower lasts for an extra couple of minutes!
Seal Air Leaks
Caulking, silicone insulation, and foam insulation are all pretty cheap, but sealing the large leaks around doorways and windows will save you a ton of money. This one's pretty simple. If you can feel a draft, chances are that your window sill or door frame is leaky. According to some sites, closing off these drafts can reduce your electric bill by as much as $80 per year.
Unfortunately, I've found that caulking is a job for warmer weather. In the dead of winter, the caulk might not cure properly. If it's too late in the season to do your caulking outdoors, consider shrink-wrapping your windows. Most DIY centers carry window-wrapping kits, which make it easy to create an insulating air barrier in your window. This will reduce drafts, massively drop your heating bill, and generally make your home a warmer, fuzzier place to be.
Efficient Shower Heads
Seinfeld once had a low-flow showerhead episode. Basically, Seinfeld's landlord secretly replaced all the showerheads in the building, which led to insufficient rinsing, greasy hair, and all sorts of misery.
Watching the episode, I completely understood. Personally, I go back and forth between soft, relaxing showers and powerful, tearing-your-skin-off, monster showers. When the water pressure is too low, I resort to all sorts of byzantine solutions -- covering up holes, bending the hose, and so forth. That having been said, it is, indeed, possible to have a low-flow shower with a great deal of water pressure. The solution is finding one that properly aerates your water. Personally, I have a low-flow Waterpik showerhead that gives me the option of a high or low pressure stream. It's made me very, very happy.
The savings from low-flow showerheads are nominal. While you will probably shave about $20 per year off your water bill, the showerheads will run you at least that much. However, since a good showerhead will last for years, you should be able to enjoy the savings for quite some time. Besides that, you may discover that you enjoy the comfort of a specialized shower: I liked mine so much that I took it with me when I moved!
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
AC Troubleshooting / Oil Furnace
Oil-Furnace Troubleshooting
When your oil furnaces quits, try some home diagnoses before calling in a professional, including five tips and symptoms.
Are things in your basement not going bump in the night? When your oil furnace quits, try some diagnosis before before calling a professional.
On the whole, oil furnaces are considered to be among the most durable household appliances. Even though many manufacturers claim that their units have only a 10-year usable life, a homeowner can often expect 15 to 20 years of service from a properly maintained furnace.
However, this is not to imply that an oil burner won't develop a few ailments now and then, typically on the coldest night of the winter. In some instances, only a minor repair or adjustment will be required, but in many cases, you'll need the services of a qualified heating professional to restore the furnace to good health. Even so, if you're familiar with common problems that oil burners develop and their recommended repairs, you'll be better able to judge the quality of a repairperson's work and ward off the incompetent or unscrupulous.
In the discussion that follows, former EcoVillage Director Leroy Richter, who teaches a popular introductory course on furnace repair at a local technical institute, lists some common oil furnace problems and some ways to correctly diagnose the trouble.
[1] The furnace won't start.
First of all, Leroy advises, press the reset button, which manually starts the furnace. It's located either on the primary control at the stack (on older models) or on the burner motor (on newer appliances). Push the button once or twice; however, if the furnace doesn't come on and stay on within 60 seconds, stop pushing the button and check the fuses or circuit breaker. Don't keep pushing the reset button, which merely loads more fuel into the combustion chamber. If you do and the furnace finally does fire, you'll have a "heck of a lot of oil" in there, Richter points out.
Sometimes the motor on the burner assembly will burn out, Leroy says. If this is the case, the motor will have to be replaced. Over-oiling the motor, which is sealed, is probably the most common cause of failure. Another possibility, though a rare one, is a faulty starting switch on the motor, which is an inexpensive repair.
[2] The burner is running but there's no fire.
In this case, turn your attention first to the burner nozzle. "The opening in a nozzle is smaller than the tip of a needle," Richter points out, "and the slightest amount of water or trash can clog it up." If it's been a while since you changed the nozzle, replace this inexpensive part and see if the furnace will now operate properly.
To check for water, disconnect the oil supply line from the burner assembly and catch the fuel in a clean jar. Hold it to the light and look for the presence of water. A homeowner can minimize fuel contamination by following these suggestions: [A] Shut the furnace off while oil is being pumped into the tank and then leave it off for another hour until any trash that's present has a chance to settle in the bottom of the tank. [B] Have the oil deliveryperson check for excess water in the tank by using a simple test, a squirt of water-sensitive paste on a long stick; if water is present, drain the tank and check for cracks. [C] Keep the tank topped off with fuel, a practice that won't disturb the bottom sediment as much as infrequent fill-ups will.
Another possible cause is a shorted-out transformer. To check, Leroy advises, disconnect the wires to the burner motor and the furnace, leaving the transformer wire in place. Take a screwdriver with an insulated handle (and since you're dealing with 10,000 volts, a good wallop, be sure to hold onto the insulated handle), and touch it to one of the terminals of the transformer while slowly lowering the shaft of the screwdriver into contact with the other terminal. The current should form a two-inch arc; if the arc is small, less than 3/4 inch, the transformer is weak and needs to be replaced.
Finally, dirty or cracked electrodes and shorted-out electrode wires can keep a furnace from firing.
[3] The burner is running, there's fire in the furnace, but insufficient heat is coming through the registers.
With these symptoms, check the air filter first; if it's clogged, change it. Oddly enough, a new air filter becomes most efficient after it has collected a small coating of lint; however, an excessive buildup will impede airflow. If the air filter in your furnace needs changing more than once or twice a year, make sure that a clothes dryer, which emits lots of airborne lint, isn't too close to the furnace.
If an air filter change doesn't solve the problem, then open the inspection door to the supply-air fan and see whether the fan belt is broken and needs to be replaced. If the fan belt is in good shape, then inspect the supply-air fan itself, which could be burned out.
Finally, and this is a point of interest to homeowners with gas furnaces and heat pumps, too, Leroy emphasizes, you should check for leaky ductwork. "I recently worked on a house that had been sold twice because of excessive heating bills, and the third owner was getting ready to bail out for the same reason," Leroy recalls. "The problem was a duct that has been left hanging loose and unconnected. The furnace was just pumping heat into the crawl space." Applications of duct tape and replacement of corroded parts are necessary to correct leaky ductwork. Also, if the ducts run through an unheated basement or crawl space, Leroy advises spending the few hundred dollars that are required to insulate the ductwork of an average-sized house. "It's money well spent," he comments, "and many homeowners are capable of doing the work themselves."
Occasionally, insufficient airflow can be traced to an improperly sized return-air duct. One Mother Earth News reader wrote that, while painting, he removed an adequately large return grille in his home and discovered that a sloppy heating contractor had cut an extremely small, undersized hole behind the grille for passage of the return air.
One clue to improperly sized ductwork is a strong suction in the supply-air fan compartment. "There should be a slight suction around the fan, but not a real strong pull," Leroy says, noting that a heating professional will likely be needed to solve complicated ductwork problems.
[4] Soot and smoke are coming through the registers; there may be an oily odor in the house.
Dirty air can be caused by a number of things. "First off, open the inspection door to the combustion chamber and place your palm close to the opening. If you can hold it there without discomfort, there's probably no blockage," Leroy says. "But if it's too hot for you to stand and smoke is puffing out, there's something causing that heat to back out of the chamber."
Possibilities include a clogged chimney or flue pipe (a good spot to check is where the flue pipe connects to the chimney); insufficient draft because of a too-long flue pipe (a rare occurrence); and a clogged or cracked heat exchanger (this is a serious proposition, usually requiring the purchase of a new furnace). "A cracked heat exchanger generally occurs because of using the wrong size nozzle or improperly adjusting the burner assembly," Richter points out. "Regular furnace maintenance is important to prevent this from happening."
While you're at it, look at the gaskets around the inspection door to the combustion chamber. Over time, Leroy says, the gaskets will warp and crack, allowing smoke and heat to escape into the basement or crawl space. This smoke can then be sucked into the supply-air fan and blown into the house. A few unscrupulous furnace repair people may diagnose this problem as a cracked heat exchanger and try to sell a homeowner a new furnace rather than merely replacing the gaskets.
Furthermore, there are two internal gaskets for the inspection plates on the heat exchanger that may become warped through use and may allow smoke to escape. These will need to be checked and replaced by a heating professional.
[5] Family members wake up in the morning with sore throats, and their nasal passages feel dry. Wooden furniture may start to come apart at the joints.
"An efficient furnace will remove just about all the water from the air," Leroy points out. "Newer furnaces come with humidifiers; if you have one, use it. If you have an older unit, consider adding a humidifier."
Since moist air feels warmer than dry air, a homeowner will be able to run an oil furnace equipped with a humidifier at a lower thermostat setting; thus, a small saving in fuel consumption will result.
When your oil furnaces quits, try some home diagnoses before calling in a professional, including five tips and symptoms.
Are things in your basement not going bump in the night? When your oil furnace quits, try some diagnosis before before calling a professional.
On the whole, oil furnaces are considered to be among the most durable household appliances. Even though many manufacturers claim that their units have only a 10-year usable life, a homeowner can often expect 15 to 20 years of service from a properly maintained furnace.
However, this is not to imply that an oil burner won't develop a few ailments now and then, typically on the coldest night of the winter. In some instances, only a minor repair or adjustment will be required, but in many cases, you'll need the services of a qualified heating professional to restore the furnace to good health. Even so, if you're familiar with common problems that oil burners develop and their recommended repairs, you'll be better able to judge the quality of a repairperson's work and ward off the incompetent or unscrupulous.
In the discussion that follows, former EcoVillage Director Leroy Richter, who teaches a popular introductory course on furnace repair at a local technical institute, lists some common oil furnace problems and some ways to correctly diagnose the trouble.
[1] The furnace won't start.
First of all, Leroy advises, press the reset button, which manually starts the furnace. It's located either on the primary control at the stack (on older models) or on the burner motor (on newer appliances). Push the button once or twice; however, if the furnace doesn't come on and stay on within 60 seconds, stop pushing the button and check the fuses or circuit breaker. Don't keep pushing the reset button, which merely loads more fuel into the combustion chamber. If you do and the furnace finally does fire, you'll have a "heck of a lot of oil" in there, Richter points out.
Sometimes the motor on the burner assembly will burn out, Leroy says. If this is the case, the motor will have to be replaced. Over-oiling the motor, which is sealed, is probably the most common cause of failure. Another possibility, though a rare one, is a faulty starting switch on the motor, which is an inexpensive repair.
[2] The burner is running but there's no fire.
In this case, turn your attention first to the burner nozzle. "The opening in a nozzle is smaller than the tip of a needle," Richter points out, "and the slightest amount of water or trash can clog it up." If it's been a while since you changed the nozzle, replace this inexpensive part and see if the furnace will now operate properly.
To check for water, disconnect the oil supply line from the burner assembly and catch the fuel in a clean jar. Hold it to the light and look for the presence of water. A homeowner can minimize fuel contamination by following these suggestions: [A] Shut the furnace off while oil is being pumped into the tank and then leave it off for another hour until any trash that's present has a chance to settle in the bottom of the tank. [B] Have the oil deliveryperson check for excess water in the tank by using a simple test, a squirt of water-sensitive paste on a long stick; if water is present, drain the tank and check for cracks. [C] Keep the tank topped off with fuel, a practice that won't disturb the bottom sediment as much as infrequent fill-ups will.
Another possible cause is a shorted-out transformer. To check, Leroy advises, disconnect the wires to the burner motor and the furnace, leaving the transformer wire in place. Take a screwdriver with an insulated handle (and since you're dealing with 10,000 volts, a good wallop, be sure to hold onto the insulated handle), and touch it to one of the terminals of the transformer while slowly lowering the shaft of the screwdriver into contact with the other terminal. The current should form a two-inch arc; if the arc is small, less than 3/4 inch, the transformer is weak and needs to be replaced.
Finally, dirty or cracked electrodes and shorted-out electrode wires can keep a furnace from firing.
[3] The burner is running, there's fire in the furnace, but insufficient heat is coming through the registers.
With these symptoms, check the air filter first; if it's clogged, change it. Oddly enough, a new air filter becomes most efficient after it has collected a small coating of lint; however, an excessive buildup will impede airflow. If the air filter in your furnace needs changing more than once or twice a year, make sure that a clothes dryer, which emits lots of airborne lint, isn't too close to the furnace.
If an air filter change doesn't solve the problem, then open the inspection door to the supply-air fan and see whether the fan belt is broken and needs to be replaced. If the fan belt is in good shape, then inspect the supply-air fan itself, which could be burned out.
Finally, and this is a point of interest to homeowners with gas furnaces and heat pumps, too, Leroy emphasizes, you should check for leaky ductwork. "I recently worked on a house that had been sold twice because of excessive heating bills, and the third owner was getting ready to bail out for the same reason," Leroy recalls. "The problem was a duct that has been left hanging loose and unconnected. The furnace was just pumping heat into the crawl space." Applications of duct tape and replacement of corroded parts are necessary to correct leaky ductwork. Also, if the ducts run through an unheated basement or crawl space, Leroy advises spending the few hundred dollars that are required to insulate the ductwork of an average-sized house. "It's money well spent," he comments, "and many homeowners are capable of doing the work themselves."
Occasionally, insufficient airflow can be traced to an improperly sized return-air duct. One Mother Earth News reader wrote that, while painting, he removed an adequately large return grille in his home and discovered that a sloppy heating contractor had cut an extremely small, undersized hole behind the grille for passage of the return air.
One clue to improperly sized ductwork is a strong suction in the supply-air fan compartment. "There should be a slight suction around the fan, but not a real strong pull," Leroy says, noting that a heating professional will likely be needed to solve complicated ductwork problems.
[4] Soot and smoke are coming through the registers; there may be an oily odor in the house.
Dirty air can be caused by a number of things. "First off, open the inspection door to the combustion chamber and place your palm close to the opening. If you can hold it there without discomfort, there's probably no blockage," Leroy says. "But if it's too hot for you to stand and smoke is puffing out, there's something causing that heat to back out of the chamber."
Possibilities include a clogged chimney or flue pipe (a good spot to check is where the flue pipe connects to the chimney); insufficient draft because of a too-long flue pipe (a rare occurrence); and a clogged or cracked heat exchanger (this is a serious proposition, usually requiring the purchase of a new furnace). "A cracked heat exchanger generally occurs because of using the wrong size nozzle or improperly adjusting the burner assembly," Richter points out. "Regular furnace maintenance is important to prevent this from happening."
While you're at it, look at the gaskets around the inspection door to the combustion chamber. Over time, Leroy says, the gaskets will warp and crack, allowing smoke and heat to escape into the basement or crawl space. This smoke can then be sucked into the supply-air fan and blown into the house. A few unscrupulous furnace repair people may diagnose this problem as a cracked heat exchanger and try to sell a homeowner a new furnace rather than merely replacing the gaskets.
Furthermore, there are two internal gaskets for the inspection plates on the heat exchanger that may become warped through use and may allow smoke to escape. These will need to be checked and replaced by a heating professional.
[5] Family members wake up in the morning with sore throats, and their nasal passages feel dry. Wooden furniture may start to come apart at the joints.
"An efficient furnace will remove just about all the water from the air," Leroy points out. "Newer furnaces come with humidifiers; if you have one, use it. If you have an older unit, consider adding a humidifier."
Since moist air feels warmer than dry air, a homeowner will be able to run an oil furnace equipped with a humidifier at a lower thermostat setting; thus, a small saving in fuel consumption will result.
Monday, February 11, 2008
A Little Help From My Friends
Help is Found online By Do It Yourselfers:
I have a 10 year old trane unit and I heard a humming noise outside this morning . The compressor fan was trying to spin but was binding up. When I turned the unit off, and opened the unit to check the fan motor it turned freely. When it is powered back up, the fan is binding and will not turn.
Any ideas ?
When I power it up, all the motor does it try to spin. It moves about 1/4 inch then locks down. I can not get the blades to turn even when I push them. I checked the voltage going to the motor and get a reading of "290". Why is the reading so high?
When all power is off, the blades on the motor turn freely.
Try with the unit calling to run . Give the fan a push to start.
If it takes off and runs get a new capacitor for it . If not and it does get 220V to it . Id say time for a new motor. make sure you get the same Hp and RPM also that it turns the same way CW or CCW.
AC Repair Condensor Fan Motor
When a motor does that it has too much end play meaning one of the bearings has worn on the inside allowing the rotor to move too close to the front plate you will need to replace when you get a new one make sure to take the old one off and get a replacement that has the same characteristics all the info is listed on the data plate and any good supply house should be able to match you up.
If they sell you a universal one the wiring diagrams will walk you through the retrofit they will give you options for a three wire or four wire aplication and you can choose rotation and make sure to get a new capacitor
mxmom
Member Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 15
Unfinished heat runs...
________________________________________
We have been in the (slow) process of finishing part of our basement. We currently have the bedroom & bathroom done and the heat ducts (returns in the bedroom and living area) are installed/functioning properly in there. (Sheetrocked ceilings in the bed/bath rooms.)
The "living room" area ceiling is not completed (we are installing a drop ceiling in that area-eventually!). But I do have a question about the "heat runs".
We have 2 runs that currently run along the floor joists/ceiling in that room (we have 10' ceilings in our basement). They are connected to the main duct and do have heat coming from them.
However, because they are not "finished" (they blow straight out). Would adding 90° elbows to the ends of these runs help direct the heat downwards? (This would only be temporary until the ceiling was finished). Or wouldn't it necessarily make any difference? (Due to the height of the ceiling.) My husband & I disagree on this issue....I say it would help, he says it won't make any difference.
What do the experts recommend?
Thanks!
mike n
Member Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 38
Heat Down Your Basement
________________________________________
Your hubby will hate me for this he probably knows your right he just doesn't want to put the 90's an there because it's more work and he already has enough to do.
Yes you know that heat rises in air conditioning this would not be an issue but in Heating air distribution it is important to get the air to the area you want to condition.
In cooling the air falls down by itself and starts what is called the convective loop (cold air falling, warm air rising)
in heating the warm air either needs to come from floor vents or be forced down to effectively condition a space.
You should put 90's on and a piece of pipe as long as possible without interfearing with head room.
You don't have to tell him you know this because it is more important to have a strong marriage than it is to be right.
I have a 10 year old trane unit and I heard a humming noise outside this morning . The compressor fan was trying to spin but was binding up. When I turned the unit off, and opened the unit to check the fan motor it turned freely. When it is powered back up, the fan is binding and will not turn.
Any ideas ?
When I power it up, all the motor does it try to spin. It moves about 1/4 inch then locks down. I can not get the blades to turn even when I push them. I checked the voltage going to the motor and get a reading of "290". Why is the reading so high?
When all power is off, the blades on the motor turn freely.
Try with the unit calling to run . Give the fan a push to start.
If it takes off and runs get a new capacitor for it . If not and it does get 220V to it . Id say time for a new motor. make sure you get the same Hp and RPM also that it turns the same way CW or CCW.
AC Repair Condensor Fan Motor
When a motor does that it has too much end play meaning one of the bearings has worn on the inside allowing the rotor to move too close to the front plate you will need to replace when you get a new one make sure to take the old one off and get a replacement that has the same characteristics all the info is listed on the data plate and any good supply house should be able to match you up.
If they sell you a universal one the wiring diagrams will walk you through the retrofit they will give you options for a three wire or four wire aplication and you can choose rotation and make sure to get a new capacitor
mxmom
Member Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 15
Unfinished heat runs...
________________________________________
We have been in the (slow) process of finishing part of our basement. We currently have the bedroom & bathroom done and the heat ducts (returns in the bedroom and living area) are installed/functioning properly in there. (Sheetrocked ceilings in the bed/bath rooms.)
The "living room" area ceiling is not completed (we are installing a drop ceiling in that area-eventually!). But I do have a question about the "heat runs".
We have 2 runs that currently run along the floor joists/ceiling in that room (we have 10' ceilings in our basement). They are connected to the main duct and do have heat coming from them.
However, because they are not "finished" (they blow straight out). Would adding 90° elbows to the ends of these runs help direct the heat downwards? (This would only be temporary until the ceiling was finished). Or wouldn't it necessarily make any difference? (Due to the height of the ceiling.) My husband & I disagree on this issue....I say it would help, he says it won't make any difference.
What do the experts recommend?
Thanks!
mike n
Member Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 38
Heat Down Your Basement
________________________________________
Your hubby will hate me for this he probably knows your right he just doesn't want to put the 90's an there because it's more work and he already has enough to do.
Yes you know that heat rises in air conditioning this would not be an issue but in Heating air distribution it is important to get the air to the area you want to condition.
In cooling the air falls down by itself and starts what is called the convective loop (cold air falling, warm air rising)
in heating the warm air either needs to come from floor vents or be forced down to effectively condition a space.
You should put 90's on and a piece of pipe as long as possible without interfearing with head room.
You don't have to tell him you know this because it is more important to have a strong marriage than it is to be right.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Sometimes your Air Conditioners Ain't Broke
With the long history of contractors sizing equipment improperly because nobody wants to do a load calculation sometimes you can solve a nuisance temperature control problem by changing your environment, here are some tips to help. Even if your system keeps up allright there is no reason not to green up your home by increasing efficiency.
Cut summer energy costs with a radiant barrier
With warmer weather just around the corner, there may be a way to help keep rocketing energy costs from driving air conditioning costs skyward.
Radiant barriers are one more way you can help keep your energy costs at their lowest possible level by reducing winter heat loss and summer heat gain.
As your roof heats up during the summer, heat radiates from the roof surface. Some of that radiant heat is transferred to the air inside your attic or the air space between your ceiling and the roof, heating the air in that chamber. If your air conditioning ducts are in the attic, reducing the attic air temperature will also cut down on the heat gain in your air conditioning ducts.
Insulation traps air, providing a barrier that goes a long way in keeping that hot attic air from radiating into the living spaces of your home. Radiant barriers work with insulation but in a different way. Radiant barriers reflect hot air away from the living space.
Your greatest energy savings can come from combining both insulation and radiant barriers.
The reflective material on a radiant barrier is generally a thin film of aluminum bonded to a paper, plastic or cardboard substrate and comes in rolls or sheets.
Radiant barriers are easy for the DIY-er to install.
Tools, materials needed
Rolls of foil radiant barrier (48 inches wide by 125 feet long, or 500 square feet)
Staple gun
1/4-inch or 5/16-inch staples
Instructions
One method is simply to roll out the radiant barrier and lay it over the top of the insulation on the attic floor. This method is quick and easy. The one drawback is that the effectiveness of the radiant barrier is reduced when the reflectivity of the material is reduced. As dust collects on the reflective surface, the barrier simply will not work as well.
The other method is to staple the foil across the undersides of the rafters.
1. Start at the bottom and work your way toward the peak of the roof.
2. Overlap the foil 2 to 3 inches.
3. Staple the foil to the undersides of the rafters with the reflective side of the barriers facing the interior of the attic, not the roof.
4. Staple the foil in place at one end, and then move to the other end, stretch it taut and staple in place. The material is strong and can be pulled taut. You can then staple it to the rafters between the two ends, using three to five staples per rafter.
5. Cut around supports, ducts and other obstructions.
6. Leave a gap at the peak near the ridge cap to allow a hot air escape.
Rolls of radiant barrier cost around $70 for a 500-square-foot roll.
Cut summer energy costs with a radiant barrier
With warmer weather just around the corner, there may be a way to help keep rocketing energy costs from driving air conditioning costs skyward.
Radiant barriers are one more way you can help keep your energy costs at their lowest possible level by reducing winter heat loss and summer heat gain.
As your roof heats up during the summer, heat radiates from the roof surface. Some of that radiant heat is transferred to the air inside your attic or the air space between your ceiling and the roof, heating the air in that chamber. If your air conditioning ducts are in the attic, reducing the attic air temperature will also cut down on the heat gain in your air conditioning ducts.
Insulation traps air, providing a barrier that goes a long way in keeping that hot attic air from radiating into the living spaces of your home. Radiant barriers work with insulation but in a different way. Radiant barriers reflect hot air away from the living space.
Your greatest energy savings can come from combining both insulation and radiant barriers.
The reflective material on a radiant barrier is generally a thin film of aluminum bonded to a paper, plastic or cardboard substrate and comes in rolls or sheets.
Radiant barriers are easy for the DIY-er to install.
Tools, materials needed
Rolls of foil radiant barrier (48 inches wide by 125 feet long, or 500 square feet)
Staple gun
1/4-inch or 5/16-inch staples
Instructions
One method is simply to roll out the radiant barrier and lay it over the top of the insulation on the attic floor. This method is quick and easy. The one drawback is that the effectiveness of the radiant barrier is reduced when the reflectivity of the material is reduced. As dust collects on the reflective surface, the barrier simply will not work as well.
The other method is to staple the foil across the undersides of the rafters.
1. Start at the bottom and work your way toward the peak of the roof.
2. Overlap the foil 2 to 3 inches.
3. Staple the foil to the undersides of the rafters with the reflective side of the barriers facing the interior of the attic, not the roof.
4. Staple the foil in place at one end, and then move to the other end, stretch it taut and staple in place. The material is strong and can be pulled taut. You can then staple it to the rafters between the two ends, using three to five staples per rafter.
5. Cut around supports, ducts and other obstructions.
6. Leave a gap at the peak near the ridge cap to allow a hot air escape.
Rolls of radiant barrier cost around $70 for a 500-square-foot roll.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Our Friends in New Zealand offer some advice For your Automotive Air Conditioninf
We usually focus on Home Comfort here but we know that the air conditioners in our vehicles are very important to us (especially when it's 95 degrees at 10:30 in the morning) so here is some timely advice from some friends in New Zealand let us know what you think.
Just a lot of hot (or cold) air
Air-con units need regular maintenance. Photo / Bay of Plenty Times
With the best summer we've had in the last 10 years, the car's air-conditioning will be getting a good workout. During the past seven to 10 years, most cars have come standard with air-conditioning and as such, most people now regard it as part of the car and forget the units need looking after.
The servicing of the units is best left to professionals but here a few things to keep an eye on.
As your car becomes older, or when the air-conditioning system is used infrequently, bacteria, mould and fungi can start growing just behind the dash panel on the evaporator, causing some unpleasant odours. Using an anti-bacterial treatment that destroys the bacteria growth and leaves your car smelling fresh again can solve this problem.
If you feel the car doesn't seem as cold as it used to be, the air-conditioning system may need servicing. The air-conditioning system is not usually covered by the vehicle manufacturer's servicing schedules and the refrigerant gas that is used to operate the system depletes over time.
On average, most vehicles lose up to 15 per cent of the refrigerant gas during the course of a year.
This leakage can be caused when the system is not used during the winter months, thus allowing the small seals to dry out, resulting in a gradual deterioration in system performance. If this continues, eventually the system will not be able to operate at all.
Most problems of this type can be put right easily with a leak check, followed by a complete recharge of the air-conditioning refrigerant.
Running your air-conditioning all year round is not likely in New Zealand but it will help maintain the system. If you run the air-conditioning in winter, it will help to keep the system well lubricated and leak-tight. This is because the refrigerant actually carries the oil that lubricates the system and most importantly the compressor. It also keeps the seals and hoses moist, thus preventing them from drying out and cracking, which can lead to leaks.
Strange noises coming from the air-conditioning should be attended to immediately. If your air-con system starts making noises, you have not heard before, it is advisable to have a qualified vehicle air-conditioning specialist to have a look at it.
Some noises could be early symptoms of a compressor failure (the compressor is the air-conditioning pump). The compressor is usually the most expensive part of the system and, if the bearings in your compressor break or if the compressor seizes up, it means other components can become contaminated with metal particles.
A flush of the system would then be needed as well as replacement of the compressor, the receiver/drier and the expansion valve.
Don't worry about a pool of water forming under your car after using the air-conditioning. If you do see water on the ground, usually under the passenger side, don't be alarmed. This is a normal feature of the system as it is only water dripping from the air-conditioning evaporator. The evaporator has a drain tube fitted to allow the condensation from the evaporator to drain away from the vehicle.
Excessive moisture inside the car can be fixed easily.
Sometimes the drain tube from the evaporator may become blocked or detached, allowing the condensation to build up inside your evaporator. If this occurs water will just build up inside the car to a point where there are damp carpets or window misting problems. These can be solved with low-cost servicing.
Have your air-conditioning serviced regularly, even if there are no visible problems.
The compressor needs oil, or else it will seize up. The filter collects debris and moisture. If the filter becomes blocked, then the performance of the system will deteriorate and it can even stop working entirely. Usually, the refrigerant gas in a car air-conditioning system has to be recharged completely after four years from the manufacture of the unit and then every two to three years.
Regular maintenance will save money and guarantee comfort.
Just a lot of hot (or cold) air
Air-con units need regular maintenance. Photo / Bay of Plenty Times
With the best summer we've had in the last 10 years, the car's air-conditioning will be getting a good workout. During the past seven to 10 years, most cars have come standard with air-conditioning and as such, most people now regard it as part of the car and forget the units need looking after.
The servicing of the units is best left to professionals but here a few things to keep an eye on.
As your car becomes older, or when the air-conditioning system is used infrequently, bacteria, mould and fungi can start growing just behind the dash panel on the evaporator, causing some unpleasant odours. Using an anti-bacterial treatment that destroys the bacteria growth and leaves your car smelling fresh again can solve this problem.
If you feel the car doesn't seem as cold as it used to be, the air-conditioning system may need servicing. The air-conditioning system is not usually covered by the vehicle manufacturer's servicing schedules and the refrigerant gas that is used to operate the system depletes over time.
On average, most vehicles lose up to 15 per cent of the refrigerant gas during the course of a year.
This leakage can be caused when the system is not used during the winter months, thus allowing the small seals to dry out, resulting in a gradual deterioration in system performance. If this continues, eventually the system will not be able to operate at all.
Most problems of this type can be put right easily with a leak check, followed by a complete recharge of the air-conditioning refrigerant.
Running your air-conditioning all year round is not likely in New Zealand but it will help maintain the system. If you run the air-conditioning in winter, it will help to keep the system well lubricated and leak-tight. This is because the refrigerant actually carries the oil that lubricates the system and most importantly the compressor. It also keeps the seals and hoses moist, thus preventing them from drying out and cracking, which can lead to leaks.
Strange noises coming from the air-conditioning should be attended to immediately. If your air-con system starts making noises, you have not heard before, it is advisable to have a qualified vehicle air-conditioning specialist to have a look at it.
Some noises could be early symptoms of a compressor failure (the compressor is the air-conditioning pump). The compressor is usually the most expensive part of the system and, if the bearings in your compressor break or if the compressor seizes up, it means other components can become contaminated with metal particles.
A flush of the system would then be needed as well as replacement of the compressor, the receiver/drier and the expansion valve.
Don't worry about a pool of water forming under your car after using the air-conditioning. If you do see water on the ground, usually under the passenger side, don't be alarmed. This is a normal feature of the system as it is only water dripping from the air-conditioning evaporator. The evaporator has a drain tube fitted to allow the condensation from the evaporator to drain away from the vehicle.
Excessive moisture inside the car can be fixed easily.
Sometimes the drain tube from the evaporator may become blocked or detached, allowing the condensation to build up inside your evaporator. If this occurs water will just build up inside the car to a point where there are damp carpets or window misting problems. These can be solved with low-cost servicing.
Have your air-conditioning serviced regularly, even if there are no visible problems.
The compressor needs oil, or else it will seize up. The filter collects debris and moisture. If the filter becomes blocked, then the performance of the system will deteriorate and it can even stop working entirely. Usually, the refrigerant gas in a car air-conditioning system has to be recharged completely after four years from the manufacture of the unit and then every two to three years.
Regular maintenance will save money and guarantee comfort.
Monday, February 4, 2008
AC Repair Thermostat won't call for cooling
One subscriber has a problem with their new thermostat let's see if this helps
new thermostat
installed new white-rogers manual thermostat. everything works fine, except ac compressor will not come on.
If you have a wire hooked to the Y terminal on the stat then you need to follow that wire through the system when you have a call for cooling the thermostat closes or sends a signal from the R terminal on the stat which has 24 volts ac to the Y terminal, from the Y terminal the signal goes to either an indoor air handler(gas furnace, electric furnace, I'm not sure what you have) or to an outdoor package system the signal on that Y wire, depending on manufacturer may have to pass through a number of safeties before it tells the compressor contactor to close.
Here is how I do it, Turn main power off to the system then take the thermostat off the wll and tie the R and Y wires together turn the system back on then if your outdoor unit doesn't run you know the problem is not with your tstat then either put the stat back together or leave it jumped out and look for that 24volts the first place to look is at your air handler or furnace where the R and Y wires come in you need to check if you have 24 volts from the Y wire to ground or the neutral on your transformer if you have it there then you need to check it at the outdoor unit if you have 24 volts coming into the outdoor unit then the problem is in your outdoor unit follow the control voltage all the way through some manufacturers have low pressure safeties to protect against refrigerant loss and high pressure safeties to protect against dirty coils or a bad fan motor just follow the control voltage through the system when you find a spot where you don't have 24 volts then you know that is where the problem is if you get stuck just let me know
new thermostat
installed new white-rogers manual thermostat. everything works fine, except ac compressor will not come on.
If you have a wire hooked to the Y terminal on the stat then you need to follow that wire through the system when you have a call for cooling the thermostat closes or sends a signal from the R terminal on the stat which has 24 volts ac to the Y terminal, from the Y terminal the signal goes to either an indoor air handler(gas furnace, electric furnace, I'm not sure what you have) or to an outdoor package system the signal on that Y wire, depending on manufacturer may have to pass through a number of safeties before it tells the compressor contactor to close.
Here is how I do it, Turn main power off to the system then take the thermostat off the wll and tie the R and Y wires together turn the system back on then if your outdoor unit doesn't run you know the problem is not with your tstat then either put the stat back together or leave it jumped out and look for that 24volts the first place to look is at your air handler or furnace where the R and Y wires come in you need to check if you have 24 volts from the Y wire to ground or the neutral on your transformer if you have it there then you need to check it at the outdoor unit if you have 24 volts coming into the outdoor unit then the problem is in your outdoor unit follow the control voltage all the way through some manufacturers have low pressure safeties to protect against refrigerant loss and high pressure safeties to protect against dirty coils or a bad fan motor just follow the control voltage through the system when you find a spot where you don't have 24 volts then you know that is where the problem is if you get stuck just let me know
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Ausralian Company announces New Energy Efficient Line
Energy efficient air conditioning systems produced by Daikin Australia
Daikin Australia ’s inverter air conditioners are powerful and energy efficient than the conventional non inverter model. Conventional air conditioners function at a fixed speed delivering a normal quantity of cooling and heating. Daikin Australia’s inverter has much more specialised technology which operates differently and works like an accelerator of a car, slowly and gently it increase or decrease power.
It reaches the desired temperature quickly and maintains it without fluctuations. It permits uninterrupted comfort and savings on running cost. Inverter models are reliable even in extremes.
Swing compressor used in the Daikin Australia’s air conditioners and refrigerators help reduce friction during operation enabling it for smoother and quieter rotation. It also reduces the vibration and minimises the leakage of refrigerant gas. Swing compressor is fitted on to all models except FAQ90C model.
Daikin Australia’s reluctance DC motors utilise powerful neodymium magnets that are stronger than the conventional magnets. These motors can also boost efficiency by twenty per cent more than conventional motors.
Pulse Amplitude modulation technology is the most important factor which helps Daikin Australia’s air conditioners energy efficient while it offers high power. This technology is available in all models except FAQ90C model.
Most of the Daikin Australia’s air conditioning systems received top energy saver award.
Daikin Australia ’s inverter air conditioners are powerful and energy efficient than the conventional non inverter model. Conventional air conditioners function at a fixed speed delivering a normal quantity of cooling and heating. Daikin Australia’s inverter has much more specialised technology which operates differently and works like an accelerator of a car, slowly and gently it increase or decrease power.
It reaches the desired temperature quickly and maintains it without fluctuations. It permits uninterrupted comfort and savings on running cost. Inverter models are reliable even in extremes.
Swing compressor used in the Daikin Australia’s air conditioners and refrigerators help reduce friction during operation enabling it for smoother and quieter rotation. It also reduces the vibration and minimises the leakage of refrigerant gas. Swing compressor is fitted on to all models except FAQ90C model.
Daikin Australia’s reluctance DC motors utilise powerful neodymium magnets that are stronger than the conventional magnets. These motors can also boost efficiency by twenty per cent more than conventional motors.
Pulse Amplitude modulation technology is the most important factor which helps Daikin Australia’s air conditioners energy efficient while it offers high power. This technology is available in all models except FAQ90C model.
Most of the Daikin Australia’s air conditioning systems received top energy saver award.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
AC Thermostat Help
How Does a Thermostat Work?
A thermostat's basic function is to regulate the operation of heating and cooling equipment in your home. You set the thermostat to the desired temperature and the thermostat turns the equipment on and off to maintain that temperature. A thermostat is essentially an automatic switch. The thermostat senses the temperature and turns the air conditioner or heater on and off as required to maintain the desired temperature.
There are two basic types of thermostats: electromechanical and electronic. They both do the same thing but they do it in different ways. Additionally, of the two basic types, there are several varieties from which to choose.
An electromechanical thermostat typically uses a bi-metal coil or strip which moves as it expands and contracts with temperature changes. Mounted on the bi-metal strip is a glass vial partially filled with mercury. As the vial is tilted on the back on the bi-metal strip, the mercury flows to the end of the vial where two electrical contacts are exposed. When the mercury envelopes those electrical contacts, a low voltage circuit is made, thanks to the fact that mercury is conductive. This works just like a light switch and makes a circuit to turn on the heater or A/C.
An electronic thermostat operates in much the same way as an electromechanical model except that instead of the moving bi-metal strip and mercury switch, it uses a sensor to detect temperature levels. When the temperature differs from the preselected temperature the thermostat electronically makes the circuit to the heater or A/C.
While most home thermostats use only low-voltage, the power should be shut off to the HVAC equipment at the circuit breaker. Accidental shorting of wires may not injure you but it may damage valuable equipment.
Advanced features include programmable thermostats where different temperatures can be set for a certain time of day or the day of the week. A setback feature allows you to set the thermostat to a preferred temperature and then a different temperature for hours of the day when you are away and don't need to heat or cool the house to your preferred temperature. Another feature called a heat anticipator is used for certain types of heating equipment that continue to generate heat even after they are powered off. This feature shuts off the heater in advance of reaching the preset preferred temperature.
A thermostat's basic function is to regulate the operation of heating and cooling equipment in your home. You set the thermostat to the desired temperature and the thermostat turns the equipment on and off to maintain that temperature. A thermostat is essentially an automatic switch. The thermostat senses the temperature and turns the air conditioner or heater on and off as required to maintain the desired temperature.
There are two basic types of thermostats: electromechanical and electronic. They both do the same thing but they do it in different ways. Additionally, of the two basic types, there are several varieties from which to choose.
An electromechanical thermostat typically uses a bi-metal coil or strip which moves as it expands and contracts with temperature changes. Mounted on the bi-metal strip is a glass vial partially filled with mercury. As the vial is tilted on the back on the bi-metal strip, the mercury flows to the end of the vial where two electrical contacts are exposed. When the mercury envelopes those electrical contacts, a low voltage circuit is made, thanks to the fact that mercury is conductive. This works just like a light switch and makes a circuit to turn on the heater or A/C.
An electronic thermostat operates in much the same way as an electromechanical model except that instead of the moving bi-metal strip and mercury switch, it uses a sensor to detect temperature levels. When the temperature differs from the preselected temperature the thermostat electronically makes the circuit to the heater or A/C.
While most home thermostats use only low-voltage, the power should be shut off to the HVAC equipment at the circuit breaker. Accidental shorting of wires may not injure you but it may damage valuable equipment.
Advanced features include programmable thermostats where different temperatures can be set for a certain time of day or the day of the week. A setback feature allows you to set the thermostat to a preferred temperature and then a different temperature for hours of the day when you are away and don't need to heat or cool the house to your preferred temperature. Another feature called a heat anticipator is used for certain types of heating equipment that continue to generate heat even after they are powered off. This feature shuts off the heater in advance of reaching the preset preferred temperature.
Friday, February 1, 2008
Greening Up Your Home
Something to think about from recent posting activity on Do It Yourself websites.
Gas Furnace Vent PipePosted by stanley73 on February 1st, 2008 12:36 PM Watch this Topic
Moderator Post (s) for this thread:> Consult the insult by HKestenholz on 02/01/2008
Our house is 40 years old and gas furnace about 25 years old.We have a galvanized steel vent pipe running from the furnace through the inside walls on first and second floor out through the roof.We noticed that the wall which contains a vent pipe on the first floor is warm when the furnace is on, but wall on the second floor from the floor to the ceiling extremely hot, and very hot to the touch.Is there a simple explanation for this, and possible fix.
It sounds like the seperation between your vent pipe and the upstairs wall is not sufficient creating a dangerous condition I know your probably thinking it has been that way for 25 years what makes it dangerous now but that kind of thinking burns alot of houses, the suggestion to consult your local codes officials is a good one if you live in a municipality that has a mechanical inspector.Before you spend much time and energy trying to correct this situation let me suggest looking at it in a different way.For every dollar of energy (oil, LP or gas) you put in that 25 year old furnace 50 to 60 cents of that dollar is going up that hot vent pipe and not in your house. The least efficient gas furnace you can buy today is 80% that means only 20 cents of each dollar is wasted and some better models get in the 90% of efficiency. Using what you pay in fuel bills every winter and figuring how much can be saved of each dollar you spending and fuel prices increasing annually you can see that upgrading your system will actually pay for itself in a very short time.Remember dollar for dollar there is no better way to green up your home than upgrading an old HVAC system.
Gas Furnace Vent PipePosted by stanley73 on February 1st, 2008 12:36 PM Watch this Topic
Moderator Post (s) for this thread:> Consult the insult by HKestenholz on 02/01/2008
Our house is 40 years old and gas furnace about 25 years old.We have a galvanized steel vent pipe running from the furnace through the inside walls on first and second floor out through the roof.We noticed that the wall which contains a vent pipe on the first floor is warm when the furnace is on, but wall on the second floor from the floor to the ceiling extremely hot, and very hot to the touch.Is there a simple explanation for this, and possible fix.
It sounds like the seperation between your vent pipe and the upstairs wall is not sufficient creating a dangerous condition I know your probably thinking it has been that way for 25 years what makes it dangerous now but that kind of thinking burns alot of houses, the suggestion to consult your local codes officials is a good one if you live in a municipality that has a mechanical inspector.Before you spend much time and energy trying to correct this situation let me suggest looking at it in a different way.For every dollar of energy (oil, LP or gas) you put in that 25 year old furnace 50 to 60 cents of that dollar is going up that hot vent pipe and not in your house. The least efficient gas furnace you can buy today is 80% that means only 20 cents of each dollar is wasted and some better models get in the 90% of efficiency. Using what you pay in fuel bills every winter and figuring how much can be saved of each dollar you spending and fuel prices increasing annually you can see that upgrading your system will actually pay for itself in a very short time.Remember dollar for dollar there is no better way to green up your home than upgrading an old HVAC system.
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