Air-conditioning Basics
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Air-conditioning Basics
An air conditioner is basically a refrigerator without the insulated box. It uses the evaporation of a refrigerant, like Freon, to provide cooling. The mechanics of the Freon evaporation cycle are the same in a refrigerator as in an air conditioner. According to the Merriam-Webster Dictionary Online, the term Freon is generically "used for any of various nonflammable fluorocarbons used as refrigerants and as propellants for aerosols."
Air Conditioner Cycle
This is how the evaporation cycle in an air conditioner works (See How Refrigerators Work for complete details on this cycle):
1. The compressor compresses cool Freon gas, causing it to become hot, high-pressure Freon gas (red in the diagram above).
2. This hot gas runs through a set of coils so it can dissipate its heat, and it condenses into a liquid.
3. The Freon liquid runs through an expansion valve, and in the process it evaporates to become cold, low-pressure Freon gas (light blue in the diagram above).
4. This cold gas runs through a set of coils that allow the gas to absorb heat and cool down the air inside the building.
Mixed in with the Freon is a small amount of a lightweight oil. This oil lubricates the compressor.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
A Little Bit About Window Air Conditioners
Window AC Units
A window air conditioner unit implements a complete air conditioner in a small space. The units are made small enough to fit into a standard window frame. You close the window down on the unit, plug the unit in and turn it on to get cool air. If you take the cover off of an unplugged window unit, you will find that it contains:
* A compressor
* An expansion valve
* A hot coil (on the outside)
* A chilled coil (on the inside)
* Two fans
* A control unit
The fans blow air over the coils to improve their ability to dissipate heat (to the outside air) and cold (to the room being cooled).
Inside an Air Conditioner
BTU and EER
Most air conditioners have their capacity rated in British thermal units (BTU). Generally speaking, a BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound (0.45 kg) of water 1 degree Fahrenheit (0.56 degrees Celsius). Specifically, 1 BTU equals 1,055 joules. In heating and cooling terms, 1 "ton" equals 12,000 BTU.
A typical window air conditioner might be rated at 10,000 BTU. For comparison, a typical 2,000-square-foot (185.8 m2) house might have a 5-ton (60,000-BTU) air conditioning system, implying that you might need perhaps 30 BTU per square foot. (Keep in mind that these are rough estimates. To size an air conditioner for your specific needs, contact an HVAC contractor.)
The energy efficiency rating (EER) of an air conditioner is its BTU rating over its wattage. For example, if a 10,000-BTU air conditioner consumes 1,200 watts, its EER is 8.3 (10,000 BTU/1,200 watts). Obviously, you would like the EER to be as high as possible, but normally a higher EER is accompanied by a higher price.
Let's say that you have a choice between two 10,000-BTU units. One has an EER of 8.3 and consumes 1,200 watts, and the other has an EER of 10 and consumes 1,000 watts. Let's also say that the price difference is $100. To understand what the payback period is on the more expensive unit, you need to know:
1. Approximately how many hours per year you will be operating the unit
2. How much a kilowatt-hour (kWh) costs in your area
Let's say that you plan to use the air conditioner in the summer (four months a year) and it will be operating about six hours a day. Let's also imagine that the cost in your area is $0.10/kWh. The difference in energy consumption between the two units is 200 watts, which means that every five hours the less expensive unit will consume 1 additional kWh (and therefore $0.10 more) than the more expensive unit.
Assuming that there are 30 days in a month, you find that during the summer you are operating the air conditioner:
4 mo. x 30 days/mo. x 6 hr/day = 720 hours
[(720 hrs x 200 watts) / (1000 watts/kW)] x $0.10/kWh = $14.40
Since the more expensive unit costs $100 more, that means that it will take about seven years for the more expensive unit to break even.
When you get into larger air-conditioning applications, its time to start looking at split-system units.
A window air conditioner unit implements a complete air conditioner in a small space. The units are made small enough to fit into a standard window frame. You close the window down on the unit, plug the unit in and turn it on to get cool air. If you take the cover off of an unplugged window unit, you will find that it contains:
* A compressor
* An expansion valve
* A hot coil (on the outside)
* A chilled coil (on the inside)
* Two fans
* A control unit
The fans blow air over the coils to improve their ability to dissipate heat (to the outside air) and cold (to the room being cooled).
Inside an Air Conditioner
BTU and EER
Most air conditioners have their capacity rated in British thermal units (BTU). Generally speaking, a BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound (0.45 kg) of water 1 degree Fahrenheit (0.56 degrees Celsius). Specifically, 1 BTU equals 1,055 joules. In heating and cooling terms, 1 "ton" equals 12,000 BTU.
A typical window air conditioner might be rated at 10,000 BTU. For comparison, a typical 2,000-square-foot (185.8 m2) house might have a 5-ton (60,000-BTU) air conditioning system, implying that you might need perhaps 30 BTU per square foot. (Keep in mind that these are rough estimates. To size an air conditioner for your specific needs, contact an HVAC contractor.)
The energy efficiency rating (EER) of an air conditioner is its BTU rating over its wattage. For example, if a 10,000-BTU air conditioner consumes 1,200 watts, its EER is 8.3 (10,000 BTU/1,200 watts). Obviously, you would like the EER to be as high as possible, but normally a higher EER is accompanied by a higher price.
Let's say that you have a choice between two 10,000-BTU units. One has an EER of 8.3 and consumes 1,200 watts, and the other has an EER of 10 and consumes 1,000 watts. Let's also say that the price difference is $100. To understand what the payback period is on the more expensive unit, you need to know:
1. Approximately how many hours per year you will be operating the unit
2. How much a kilowatt-hour (kWh) costs in your area
Let's say that you plan to use the air conditioner in the summer (four months a year) and it will be operating about six hours a day. Let's also imagine that the cost in your area is $0.10/kWh. The difference in energy consumption between the two units is 200 watts, which means that every five hours the less expensive unit will consume 1 additional kWh (and therefore $0.10 more) than the more expensive unit.
Assuming that there are 30 days in a month, you find that during the summer you are operating the air conditioner:
4 mo. x 30 days/mo. x 6 hr/day = 720 hours
[(720 hrs x 200 watts) / (1000 watts/kW)] x $0.10/kWh = $14.40
Since the more expensive unit costs $100 more, that means that it will take about seven years for the more expensive unit to break even.
When you get into larger air-conditioning applications, its time to start looking at split-system units.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Istanbul Air Conditioning Repair
Major Fair On Heating, Cooling And Air-conditioning To Take Place In Istanbul
Published: 4/28/2008
ISTANBUL - The ISK-SODEX 2008 fair, displaying latest developments and state of the art technologies in heating, cooling and air-conditioning, will take place in Istanbul between May 8th and 11th.
The fair will take place at the Istanbul Fair Center-CNR Expo and will be attended by 800 companies out of which 130 are foreign firms.
The exhibitor's profile includes innovative products and system solutions, systems for reducing overall energy consumption, building heating warranty, new processing techniques in plumbing, heat pumps and solid absorbers for heating buildings, controlled housing ventilation, heating and ventilation systems for low-energy houses.
The inauguration of the fair will be made with the participation of Turkish Minister of Energy and Natural Resources Hilmi Guler.
The fair is expected to be visited by 80,000 people, including 8,000 foreigners.
ISK-SODEX 2008 fair is expected to bring in an income of 20 million USD to Turkey.
Published: 4/28/2008
ISTANBUL - The ISK-SODEX 2008 fair, displaying latest developments and state of the art technologies in heating, cooling and air-conditioning, will take place in Istanbul between May 8th and 11th.
The fair will take place at the Istanbul Fair Center-CNR Expo and will be attended by 800 companies out of which 130 are foreign firms.
The exhibitor's profile includes innovative products and system solutions, systems for reducing overall energy consumption, building heating warranty, new processing techniques in plumbing, heat pumps and solid absorbers for heating buildings, controlled housing ventilation, heating and ventilation systems for low-energy houses.
The inauguration of the fair will be made with the participation of Turkish Minister of Energy and Natural Resources Hilmi Guler.
The fair is expected to be visited by 80,000 people, including 8,000 foreigners.
ISK-SODEX 2008 fair is expected to bring in an income of 20 million USD to Turkey.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Going Green will save you money
First of all if your Air Conditioning and Heating unit was manufactured over 10 years ago replacing it will save you 30% or better if you already have a high efficiency system keeping it clean and properly operating will save money not only on your utility bills but also in repairs that will be caused by the lack of maintenance.
If you are wanting to positively effect your impact on the planet and be comfortable at the same time here is a step by step list of what to do:
1. Change that filter and don't forget it again. Air is the transfer media that gets the heat out of your house or puts it in in the winter and if you rob your system of air you are robbing yourself because the more your unit runs to keep up the more money that comes out of your budget next month (ok so you won't go out to eat next month)
2. Go out to your outdoor unit and look at the coils (ooh they look filthy) yes and that filth is costing you a fortune. Shut the power off to the unit and clean those coils you can do a pretty good job with water with good pressure but you may need a mild detergent.
3. Check electrical connections. With the power off check everywhere wires go to components if you can tighten them up if you see anything green and corroded and you can cut it out and strip back to clean looking wire. Bad connections mean resistance costing more money to run and generating heat meaning a risk of fire.
More on this in the next couple of days
If you are wanting to positively effect your impact on the planet and be comfortable at the same time here is a step by step list of what to do:
1. Change that filter and don't forget it again. Air is the transfer media that gets the heat out of your house or puts it in in the winter and if you rob your system of air you are robbing yourself because the more your unit runs to keep up the more money that comes out of your budget next month (ok so you won't go out to eat next month)
2. Go out to your outdoor unit and look at the coils (ooh they look filthy) yes and that filth is costing you a fortune. Shut the power off to the unit and clean those coils you can do a pretty good job with water with good pressure but you may need a mild detergent.
3. Check electrical connections. With the power off check everywhere wires go to components if you can tighten them up if you see anything green and corroded and you can cut it out and strip back to clean looking wire. Bad connections mean resistance costing more money to run and generating heat meaning a risk of fire.
More on this in the next couple of days
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
My outdoor unit is not working and I need Air Conditioning Repair
There are many reasons why your Air Conditioning System may not be running but here are a few things to look for;
To work your Air Conditioning System needs power check the breakers, fuses, outdoor disconnect and make sure you have power.
Next control voltage shut off the power if you have determined that you have it and check for a fuse or circuit breaker on a board or inline on the incoming thermostat wires.
If you have incoming power and the control voltage is ok then check if the contactor is closed if it is and the motor is hot check if the fan will turn if it does spin it and if it starts your capacitor is bad if it does not turn the motor is bad
To work your Air Conditioning System needs power check the breakers, fuses, outdoor disconnect and make sure you have power.
Next control voltage shut off the power if you have determined that you have it and check for a fuse or circuit breaker on a board or inline on the incoming thermostat wires.
If you have incoming power and the control voltage is ok then check if the contactor is closed if it is and the motor is hot check if the fan will turn if it does spin it and if it starts your capacitor is bad if it does not turn the motor is bad
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Some new system advice to save time and money
How Do Central Air Conditioning Units Run, and How Much Do They Cost?
Home :: Home :: Home Improvement
By: Jeff Schuman Email Article
Word Count: 692 Digg it | Del.icio.us it | Google it | StumbleUpon it
How do you find a good central air conditioning system? The way that central air conditioners are rated is according to their seasonal energy efficient ratio (SEER). The seer is a calculation of the cooling output divided by the power input, which brings up an approximate climate average. Therefore, the higher the seer the better the central air conditioner you will be getting.
What is a good seer number to base on? Many older air conditioners are going to have a number around six or seven. However, new standards that will be in effect in 2006 will set the seer requirement at 13, which is an improvement of 30% from what it currently is at 10.
What a central air conditioner is doing is cooling and dehumidifying the air. What the system uses to accomplish this is a condenser, evaporator coil, and refrigerant piping to operate. The central air conditioner has a couple different kinds of units, a split system and a packaged central air conditioner.
A split system has an actual split system, meaning there is a separation between the condenser and evaporator. The condenser and compressor are in a cabinet outside the house, as the evaporator is in its own cabinet inside. As hot air is removed and transported to an evaporator coil as a warm liquid, the expansion of the liquid causes it to cool, thus cooling the air. If your home has a furnace but no air conditioner, then this is the way to go.
Another type of central air conditioning unit is a packaged central air conditioner. With this system, the condenser, compressor, and evaporator are all in one cabinet placed on the roof or next to the house. This kind of air conditioner often includes electric heating coils or a natural gas furnace. This type of unit eliminates the need for a separate furnace indoors as the air conditioner and central heater are combined.
The price of getting a central air conditioning unit varies like everything in life from company to company. Some of the determining factors include whether you’re getting a 2 Ton system through 5 Ton system, if you need the compressor installed on your roof, and where you live. A base price for a 2 Ton system without it being installed on the roof is going to run around $2700. A good site to check out prices for a central air conditioner is listed below:
http://www.costestimator.com:8080/contractor-consumer/central_air_conditioning.jsp
If you are looking to upgrade your air conditioner, or get one put in your home for a first time, there are plenty of places you can go to look. The good thing about central air conditioning is that it is quiet and environmentally friendly. In order to find what kind of air conditioner is best for you, it is smart to contact a professional. The article link below discusses certain characteristics to look for to find a quality contractor.
http://www.airconditioningandfurnaces.info/air-conditioning-contractor.html
If you are replacing an air conditioner, you’re going to have to match the size of the previous one to make sure the unit is not to big and not too small. To get more quotes to find the best air conditioner for you, check out the site below:
Home :: Home :: Home Improvement
By: Jeff Schuman Email Article
Word Count: 692 Digg it | Del.icio.us it | Google it | StumbleUpon it
How do you find a good central air conditioning system? The way that central air conditioners are rated is according to their seasonal energy efficient ratio (SEER). The seer is a calculation of the cooling output divided by the power input, which brings up an approximate climate average. Therefore, the higher the seer the better the central air conditioner you will be getting.
What is a good seer number to base on? Many older air conditioners are going to have a number around six or seven. However, new standards that will be in effect in 2006 will set the seer requirement at 13, which is an improvement of 30% from what it currently is at 10.
What a central air conditioner is doing is cooling and dehumidifying the air. What the system uses to accomplish this is a condenser, evaporator coil, and refrigerant piping to operate. The central air conditioner has a couple different kinds of units, a split system and a packaged central air conditioner.
A split system has an actual split system, meaning there is a separation between the condenser and evaporator. The condenser and compressor are in a cabinet outside the house, as the evaporator is in its own cabinet inside. As hot air is removed and transported to an evaporator coil as a warm liquid, the expansion of the liquid causes it to cool, thus cooling the air. If your home has a furnace but no air conditioner, then this is the way to go.
Another type of central air conditioning unit is a packaged central air conditioner. With this system, the condenser, compressor, and evaporator are all in one cabinet placed on the roof or next to the house. This kind of air conditioner often includes electric heating coils or a natural gas furnace. This type of unit eliminates the need for a separate furnace indoors as the air conditioner and central heater are combined.
The price of getting a central air conditioning unit varies like everything in life from company to company. Some of the determining factors include whether you’re getting a 2 Ton system through 5 Ton system, if you need the compressor installed on your roof, and where you live. A base price for a 2 Ton system without it being installed on the roof is going to run around $2700. A good site to check out prices for a central air conditioner is listed below:
http://www.costestimator.com:8080/contractor-consumer/central_air_conditioning.jsp
If you are looking to upgrade your air conditioner, or get one put in your home for a first time, there are plenty of places you can go to look. The good thing about central air conditioning is that it is quiet and environmentally friendly. In order to find what kind of air conditioner is best for you, it is smart to contact a professional. The article link below discusses certain characteristics to look for to find a quality contractor.
http://www.airconditioningandfurnaces.info/air-conditioning-contractor.html
If you are replacing an air conditioner, you’re going to have to match the size of the previous one to make sure the unit is not to big and not too small. To get more quotes to find the best air conditioner for you, check out the site below:
Monday, April 21, 2008
Saving money in your business
16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green
stumbleupon :16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green digg: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green reddit: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green del.icio.us: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green Review it on NewsTrust Yahoo Buzz: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green
Posted April 20, 2008 | 10:00 AM (EST)
Read More: Energy Savings, Going Green, Solar Panels, Breaking Living News
Whether you have a large factory with hundreds of employees, or a two-person office, there are many ways to save money, energy and resources by implementing these simple practices.
1. Buy and use post-consumer recycled paper for all of your printing needs. Print double-sided for all documents that must be printed. Set your printer to automatically print double-sided. Revise internal and external communications to reduce the unnecessary use of paper. For example, go paperless by using e-mail messages, and review mailing lists. Any reduction in paper and printing will save on operating costs.
2. Recycle or refill printer ink cartridges. Many stores like Office Max or Staples will recycle your cartridges for you, some will refill them.
3. Whenever you purchase new office equipment, be sure it is Energy Star rated to save you money and to save electricity. Printers, scanners, fax machines, and telephones all have an Energy Star rating, choose the one that will meet your needs and save money.
4. Once you have purchased your new equipment, dispose of your old machines responsibly. Take them to an E-Waste facility because most older office equipment is filled with heavy metals.
5. Be sure to plug all office equipment into power strips that can be turned off at night. Most computers and office machines draw power even when they are turned off. This is called a "phantom load" of electricity. The costs will sneak up on you!
6. Set computers to automatically sleep or turn off whenever they are not in use. Use motion sensors to turn the lights off in offices and restrooms when they are not occupied. Use programmable thermostats to automatically turn down the heat and air conditioning in your office at night or whenever the office is not occupied.
7. Whatever the size of your building or factory, have an energy audit done to see where you could save energy. You may need more insulation or your HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) system could be out of date. Provide fresh air to all employees. Be sure large warehouses and factories exhaust fumes to comply with health standards.
8. Get a lighting audit and change your old fluorescent tubes (usually T-12s) to new tubes, T-8s with energy efficient ballasts. Change all other light fixtures to CFLs (compact fluorescent light bulbs) or LEDs (light emitting diodes). Provide as much daylight for your employees as you can. Daylit spaces increase productivity, worker retention and health in addition to reducing energy bills.
9. Create a recycling program for your business. In the office, create bins to collect scrap paper for reuse. Recycle aluminum cans, glass, cardboard, office paper and newsprint or whatever your municipality will take. Get a water cooler and provide ceramic or metal mugs for your employees so they do not have to use plastic water bottles or disposable cups. Educate your employees about recycling and why it is important. Make sure the recycling system is fun and user-friendly!
10. In the factory or warehouse, work with your city or county to recycle big items such as steel, packing crates, commercial cardboard, glass, sheetrock or construction waste. Recycling is a lucrative business, and you can save money by selling your waste products rather than paying for them to be sent to the landfill.
11. Use non-toxic cleaning materials throughout your business, not just for the janitorial jobs, but for cleaning machines and industrial processes as well.
12. Encourage the use of alternative transportation for your employees. Buy bus or train passes for your employees so they can use public transportation to get to work. If public transportation does not reach your business, create a ride-share board so employees can carpool rather than driving alone. Flextime and Telecommuting is a great way to save energy and keep your employees happy.
13. Create a bike lock and storage facility so employees can bike to work. Provide them with a locker room and shower so the whole process is appealing and easy.
14. Evaluate the outside of your building; the lighting, parking lot and landscaping. Outdoor lighting can be on a motion sensor for safety; the parking lot can have solar lights, and be landscaped with drought resistant plants (this method is called xeriscaping). In addition, rainwater can be collected and used for watering plants. If you have a flat roof, look into getting a grant for solar panels. You can lease them, rather than do the whole installation yourself.
15. If you run a fleet of vehicles, delivery trucks, vans or company cars, purchase hybrids or use biodiesel in your vehicles. In addition, there are many ways your business can save money by doing an energy audit of the amount of fuel you use and the number of trips your vehicles make.
16. Education is key; you need a "buy-in" from your employees to get them to participate in your green programs. Make the education process fun by creating a "green team" from many different departments who will think of ways to increase participation. Work with your suppliers to educate them about your new green programs and see if they can minimize their waste or use less toxic products in your supply line.
Greening your business isn't just good for the earth, it is really good for your bottom line. After you meet with success in several areas like recycling and energy savings, publicize this to your customers. Talk about your savings as you make sales calls. Write about your new green agenda in your annual report and all promotional materials. Get local TV, radio and newspaper media involved in publicizing your efforts. Customers want to buy an environmentally friendly product, and they want to support businesses that are trying to make a difference in this world.
Start a corporate program that gives back to the community. Support local environmental organizations on their clean up days, or send volunteers to Habitat for Humanity as they finish building a house for a family in need.
Build team spirit between departments by competing for the most volunteer hours, the greenest department or the most successful recycling program.
stumbleupon :16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green digg: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green reddit: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green del.icio.us: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green Review it on NewsTrust Yahoo Buzz: 16 Ways To Turn Your Business Green
Posted April 20, 2008 | 10:00 AM (EST)
Read More: Energy Savings, Going Green, Solar Panels, Breaking Living News
Whether you have a large factory with hundreds of employees, or a two-person office, there are many ways to save money, energy and resources by implementing these simple practices.
1. Buy and use post-consumer recycled paper for all of your printing needs. Print double-sided for all documents that must be printed. Set your printer to automatically print double-sided. Revise internal and external communications to reduce the unnecessary use of paper. For example, go paperless by using e-mail messages, and review mailing lists. Any reduction in paper and printing will save on operating costs.
2. Recycle or refill printer ink cartridges. Many stores like Office Max or Staples will recycle your cartridges for you, some will refill them.
3. Whenever you purchase new office equipment, be sure it is Energy Star rated to save you money and to save electricity. Printers, scanners, fax machines, and telephones all have an Energy Star rating, choose the one that will meet your needs and save money.
4. Once you have purchased your new equipment, dispose of your old machines responsibly. Take them to an E-Waste facility because most older office equipment is filled with heavy metals.
5. Be sure to plug all office equipment into power strips that can be turned off at night. Most computers and office machines draw power even when they are turned off. This is called a "phantom load" of electricity. The costs will sneak up on you!
6. Set computers to automatically sleep or turn off whenever they are not in use. Use motion sensors to turn the lights off in offices and restrooms when they are not occupied. Use programmable thermostats to automatically turn down the heat and air conditioning in your office at night or whenever the office is not occupied.
7. Whatever the size of your building or factory, have an energy audit done to see where you could save energy. You may need more insulation or your HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) system could be out of date. Provide fresh air to all employees. Be sure large warehouses and factories exhaust fumes to comply with health standards.
8. Get a lighting audit and change your old fluorescent tubes (usually T-12s) to new tubes, T-8s with energy efficient ballasts. Change all other light fixtures to CFLs (compact fluorescent light bulbs) or LEDs (light emitting diodes). Provide as much daylight for your employees as you can. Daylit spaces increase productivity, worker retention and health in addition to reducing energy bills.
9. Create a recycling program for your business. In the office, create bins to collect scrap paper for reuse. Recycle aluminum cans, glass, cardboard, office paper and newsprint or whatever your municipality will take. Get a water cooler and provide ceramic or metal mugs for your employees so they do not have to use plastic water bottles or disposable cups. Educate your employees about recycling and why it is important. Make sure the recycling system is fun and user-friendly!
10. In the factory or warehouse, work with your city or county to recycle big items such as steel, packing crates, commercial cardboard, glass, sheetrock or construction waste. Recycling is a lucrative business, and you can save money by selling your waste products rather than paying for them to be sent to the landfill.
11. Use non-toxic cleaning materials throughout your business, not just for the janitorial jobs, but for cleaning machines and industrial processes as well.
12. Encourage the use of alternative transportation for your employees. Buy bus or train passes for your employees so they can use public transportation to get to work. If public transportation does not reach your business, create a ride-share board so employees can carpool rather than driving alone. Flextime and Telecommuting is a great way to save energy and keep your employees happy.
13. Create a bike lock and storage facility so employees can bike to work. Provide them with a locker room and shower so the whole process is appealing and easy.
14. Evaluate the outside of your building; the lighting, parking lot and landscaping. Outdoor lighting can be on a motion sensor for safety; the parking lot can have solar lights, and be landscaped with drought resistant plants (this method is called xeriscaping). In addition, rainwater can be collected and used for watering plants. If you have a flat roof, look into getting a grant for solar panels. You can lease them, rather than do the whole installation yourself.
15. If you run a fleet of vehicles, delivery trucks, vans or company cars, purchase hybrids or use biodiesel in your vehicles. In addition, there are many ways your business can save money by doing an energy audit of the amount of fuel you use and the number of trips your vehicles make.
16. Education is key; you need a "buy-in" from your employees to get them to participate in your green programs. Make the education process fun by creating a "green team" from many different departments who will think of ways to increase participation. Work with your suppliers to educate them about your new green programs and see if they can minimize their waste or use less toxic products in your supply line.
Greening your business isn't just good for the earth, it is really good for your bottom line. After you meet with success in several areas like recycling and energy savings, publicize this to your customers. Talk about your savings as you make sales calls. Write about your new green agenda in your annual report and all promotional materials. Get local TV, radio and newspaper media involved in publicizing your efforts. Customers want to buy an environmentally friendly product, and they want to support businesses that are trying to make a difference in this world.
Start a corporate program that gives back to the community. Support local environmental organizations on their clean up days, or send volunteers to Habitat for Humanity as they finish building a house for a family in need.
Build team spirit between departments by competing for the most volunteer hours, the greenest department or the most successful recycling program.
Sunday, April 20, 2008
How to Improve the Heating of Your Home
Heating a home can be an expensive proposition. Fortunately, several techniques are available to assist us in lowering our energy costs while improving our heating efficiency. The most obvious things to consider include insulation, landscaping, window upgrades, careful selection of appliances, and a properly sized and working heating system.
For safety reasons, any modifications or tune ups to your heating system should be done by a heating system professional. However, other modifications can easily and safely be done by homeowners including cleaning registers, replacing filters, insulating ducts and pipes, and installing programmable thermometers.
Cleaning registers and baseboards
Dirt, dust, grime, and bugs can all restrict the registers from working properly. Therefore, it is important that you vacuum the registers thoroughly. Additionally, if you have baseboard heaters, vacuum them completely as needed.
Replacing filters
Replacing the filters should be done on a monthly basis during the heating season. Make sure that you purchase the correct size for your heating system. In fact, many heating systems offer the choice between a reusable filter that lasts about a year or a throw away filter that lasts for a one time use only. The reusable filters require a thorough vacuuming or washing each month.
A dirty filter impedes the efficiency of your heating system by restricting air flow. In turn, it causes the fan to work harder and the furnace to work longer. This leads to a higher use of energy and therefore, a higher cost for energy. Maintaining clean filters in your heating system will provide a more efficient service.
Insulating ducts and pipes
Insulating pipes and ducts is actually a simple task, one that can save on heating costs. It is important to purchase and use the proper insulating material for the job to ensure both the safety of the home and the benefit of the insulation. Purchase high temperature grade insulation for steam pipes. A fiberglass wrap is effective for this task. Hot water and hydronic systems can typically use foam insulation as long as it is rated for at least 220 degrees.
Additionally, check for leaks in the ducts. Seal off any leaks using caulking, mastic, or duct tape properly prior to insulating the ducts. This step will improve the efficiency of your heating system in direct relation to the number of leaks that you have corrected.
Installing programmable thermometers
If you already practice a little conservation by turning down your thermostat at night, then you can benefit by the installation of a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat can automatically lower the temperature setting for the heating system while you sleep or during the day if no one is home. Moreover, it can automatically raise the temperature setting for the heating system right before you arise from your nightly slumber. This is one of the most cost effective strategies that a homeowner can employ to save on home heating energy costs.
Radiators
If your heating system includes radiators, then you can benefit from a little reflection. Specifically, place a foil reflector behind the radiator to reflect heat into the room. Foil faced insulation that is rigid, radiant barrier material, or homemade aluminum foil cardboard sheets will provide the necessary surface to reflect the heat.
It is also necessary to release or bleed out any air that is trapped in your radiator. Simply purchase a radiator key if you do not already have one. Hold a pan, cup, or other container underneath the valve while you open it slowly to release the air. Once only water issues from the valve, close it. Trapped air is often at the root of clanging noises issuing from radiators.
Take care of your heating system properly and it will take care of you. A few simple preventative steps can produce an energy efficient heating system and a warm and toasty home.
Heating a home can be an expensive proposition. Fortunately, several techniques are available to assist us in lowering our energy costs while improving our heating efficiency. The most obvious things to consider include insulation, landscaping, window upgrades, careful selection of appliances, and a properly sized and working heating system.
For safety reasons, any modifications or tune ups to your heating system should be done by a heating system professional. However, other modifications can easily and safely be done by homeowners including cleaning registers, replacing filters, insulating ducts and pipes, and installing programmable thermometers.
Cleaning registers and baseboards
Dirt, dust, grime, and bugs can all restrict the registers from working properly. Therefore, it is important that you vacuum the registers thoroughly. Additionally, if you have baseboard heaters, vacuum them completely as needed.
Replacing filters
Replacing the filters should be done on a monthly basis during the heating season. Make sure that you purchase the correct size for your heating system. In fact, many heating systems offer the choice between a reusable filter that lasts about a year or a throw away filter that lasts for a one time use only. The reusable filters require a thorough vacuuming or washing each month.
A dirty filter impedes the efficiency of your heating system by restricting air flow. In turn, it causes the fan to work harder and the furnace to work longer. This leads to a higher use of energy and therefore, a higher cost for energy. Maintaining clean filters in your heating system will provide a more efficient service.
Insulating ducts and pipes
Insulating pipes and ducts is actually a simple task, one that can save on heating costs. It is important to purchase and use the proper insulating material for the job to ensure both the safety of the home and the benefit of the insulation. Purchase high temperature grade insulation for steam pipes. A fiberglass wrap is effective for this task. Hot water and hydronic systems can typically use foam insulation as long as it is rated for at least 220 degrees.
Additionally, check for leaks in the ducts. Seal off any leaks using caulking, mastic, or duct tape properly prior to insulating the ducts. This step will improve the efficiency of your heating system in direct relation to the number of leaks that you have corrected.
Installing programmable thermometers
If you already practice a little conservation by turning down your thermostat at night, then you can benefit by the installation of a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat can automatically lower the temperature setting for the heating system while you sleep or during the day if no one is home. Moreover, it can automatically raise the temperature setting for the heating system right before you arise from your nightly slumber. This is one of the most cost effective strategies that a homeowner can employ to save on home heating energy costs.
Radiators
If your heating system includes radiators, then you can benefit from a little reflection. Specifically, place a foil reflector behind the radiator to reflect heat into the room. Foil faced insulation that is rigid, radiant barrier material, or homemade aluminum foil cardboard sheets will provide the necessary surface to reflect the heat.
It is also necessary to release or bleed out any air that is trapped in your radiator. Simply purchase a radiator key if you do not already have one. Hold a pan, cup, or other container underneath the valve while you open it slowly to release the air. Once only water issues from the valve, close it. Trapped air is often at the root of clanging noises issuing from radiators.
Take care of your heating system properly and it will take care of you. A few simple preventative steps can produce an energy efficient heating system and a warm and toasty home.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
How to stay cool and not break the bank
5 ways to save energy and still be comfortable
So you want to save energy and do your part for the environment, but you don't want to swelter and sweat through the summer because your home is uncomfortably warm?
There's no need to sacrifice comfort for your environmental conscience. Going green doesn't have to mean going overboard.
In fact, it's possible to trim your energy use by making a few changes your family probably won't even notice.
advertisement
Loading...... AdDynamix
First, the small stuff. Saving energy here and there will add up. Start with three simple changes:
1. Turn on your ceiling fan. The fan won't cool the room, but it will move the air so you feel cooler. That means you can inch the thermostat up by 3 to 4 degrees without noticing a difference. For every degree you turn up your thermostat during air-conditioning season, you'll save about 2 percent on cooling costs.
2. Replace traditional incandescent lightbulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs. Standard bulbs use 90 percent of their energy making heat rather than light, so they can make your room feel warmer and force the air-conditioner to work harder. CFLs, on the other hand, keep their cool. Plus, they use 75 percent less energy than incandescent bulbs and last 10 times longer.
3. Change your air-conditioning filter every month. Even if the manufacturer recommends changing it every two or three months, do it every time you pay your electric bill. Arizona is a dusty place, and all that dust and dirt can cover your filter in no time. The dirtier your filter is, the less efficient your air-conditioner will be - and the higher your energy bill will be.
Now, the big stuff. These two changes can save you a bundle.
1. Invest in an energy-management computer. These gadgets cost around $3,500, but they'll save you a minimum of 30 percent on your air-conditioning bill every month - even if you keep your house downright cold.
The one in my house is from Advanced Home Systems in Phoenix. It "knows" when your electric utility's rates - which fluctuate several times every day so you actually pay less at times the fewest people are running their air-conditioners and taking hot showers - are lowest. To save on air-conditioning costs, for instance, it will automatically lower your thermostat overnight as low as you'll allow so your house will cool off while rates are at their lowest. Your home will retain enough of that cold air to keep it comfortable the next afternoon, when the computer will raise the temperature slightly so you don't use as much electricity when rates are at their highest.
2. When it's time to replace your water heater, go solar. By the time you cash in your rebates and tax credits for the new appliance and add in what you save on energy, it will quickly pay you back for spending a little more than for a traditional gas or electric model. It could generate as much as 80 percent of the energy to supply your family with hot water.
Buy one with a backup. Then you can revert to your traditional power source during a stretch of cloudy days so you'll never be without hot water.
So you want to save energy and do your part for the environment, but you don't want to swelter and sweat through the summer because your home is uncomfortably warm?
There's no need to sacrifice comfort for your environmental conscience. Going green doesn't have to mean going overboard.
In fact, it's possible to trim your energy use by making a few changes your family probably won't even notice.
advertisement
Loading...... AdDynamix
First, the small stuff. Saving energy here and there will add up. Start with three simple changes:
1. Turn on your ceiling fan. The fan won't cool the room, but it will move the air so you feel cooler. That means you can inch the thermostat up by 3 to 4 degrees without noticing a difference. For every degree you turn up your thermostat during air-conditioning season, you'll save about 2 percent on cooling costs.
2. Replace traditional incandescent lightbulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs. Standard bulbs use 90 percent of their energy making heat rather than light, so they can make your room feel warmer and force the air-conditioner to work harder. CFLs, on the other hand, keep their cool. Plus, they use 75 percent less energy than incandescent bulbs and last 10 times longer.
3. Change your air-conditioning filter every month. Even if the manufacturer recommends changing it every two or three months, do it every time you pay your electric bill. Arizona is a dusty place, and all that dust and dirt can cover your filter in no time. The dirtier your filter is, the less efficient your air-conditioner will be - and the higher your energy bill will be.
Now, the big stuff. These two changes can save you a bundle.
1. Invest in an energy-management computer. These gadgets cost around $3,500, but they'll save you a minimum of 30 percent on your air-conditioning bill every month - even if you keep your house downright cold.
The one in my house is from Advanced Home Systems in Phoenix. It "knows" when your electric utility's rates - which fluctuate several times every day so you actually pay less at times the fewest people are running their air-conditioners and taking hot showers - are lowest. To save on air-conditioning costs, for instance, it will automatically lower your thermostat overnight as low as you'll allow so your house will cool off while rates are at their lowest. Your home will retain enough of that cold air to keep it comfortable the next afternoon, when the computer will raise the temperature slightly so you don't use as much electricity when rates are at their highest.
2. When it's time to replace your water heater, go solar. By the time you cash in your rebates and tax credits for the new appliance and add in what you save on energy, it will quickly pay you back for spending a little more than for a traditional gas or electric model. It could generate as much as 80 percent of the energy to supply your family with hot water.
Buy one with a backup. Then you can revert to your traditional power source during a stretch of cloudy days so you'll never be without hot water.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
How to be Green and have it all
Blogging From the Luxury Summit: Luxury Brands and the Green Movement
The green movement in luxury and the new philanthropy go hand in hand and have the same basic charge, finding a way to do good and do well. Unfortunately it's not quite as easy as it sounds. After all, the luxury consumer wants to have it all they want the feeling of being green and knowing they are doing something to combat climate change but they aren't really willing to give anything up. For the companies at the American Express Publishing Luxury Summit this week, green seems to be something that they are all wrestling with, wanting to satisfy a public clamoring for green but also knowing the customer expects the same level of performance and service as they have always enjoyed. While other tiers of the green market seem to be about compromise and perhaps restraint, luxury consumers want green and fabulous in the same package.Five years ago, green still meant "fringe" or perhaps "crunchy" but now green is everyone and everyone wants to be green. As Drew Slaven, the general manager of marketing services, for Mercedes Benz noted during his talk on the greening of luxury, consumers want all the performance features that they expect with a luxury brand and green features. And yet they are savvy enough to know when they are being greenwashed and fed eco-friendly messages without real weight. In fact, as Tom Schick, Executive Vice President Corporate Affairs and Communications, American Express warned while speaking on corporate social responsibility, trumpeting your good works with fancy ad campaigns can actually get a company in trouble. The sustainability moves a company chooses have to be genuine. For example, for American Express helping corporate clients understand their carbon footprint was a natural extension of their moves in the travel market.
Knowing where and how a product is made is an important part of the luxury green movement. In some cases this can extend the feeling of luxury and people are willing to pay more for it such as leather goods that are made in Italy. People are starting to look behind the label as an assurance that a product is made under certain conditions. Fair trade, organic and sustainable are new value-added buzzwords but they can also be good for the businesses too. Barbara Banke told of the new efforts by Jackson Family wines including sustainable agriculture, using GPS and other techniques to conserve water, collecting water for use later, building wineries and facilities that are LEED certified and the use of beneficial insects and wildlife (owls for catching mice). These are all steps that benefit the company and the environment but are also a value-added factor for consumers who want to know that the delicious wine they are drinking is made by a company that cares for the earth that produces the grapes.
One of the terms that I keep hearing about Web 2.0 is transparency and this also applies to the green factor of a product. Companies find themselves in a bit of a conundrum. They know they need to be green to appeal to customers but this can take time. Everyone wants organic these days but it can take several years for a product to be certified organic. Also when it comes to eco-friendly practices the customer also may have to be willing to at least compromise. I have to give an award for honesty to Jeff Klein, the passionate hotelier of the JK Hotel group, which is behind the fabulous Sunset Tower in Los Angeles. He spoke frankly about the "greening" of hotels. He explained that it is very hard to run a hotel in a green manner. For example, take the use of air conditioning in a tropical climate like Costa Rica, you can't really ask guests to not use air conditioning and be uncomfortable but obviously powering the air conditioning is a huge energy drain. You can find different ways to get the energy used but it has to not inconvenience the customer. He also debunked the theory of leaving your towel on the rack (you know, those little cards you see in hotels explaining that if you leave the towel on the rack they won't wash it) saying that overall hotels are still just washing as many towels. He also mentioned that for a time he was turning the lights off in hotel rooms to save energy but that customers complained that they didn't want to check in to a dark room so now the hotel leaves the lights on. He makes a good point that in the service industry especially part of the onus of being green has to be on the client too. If the client isn't willing to participate and adjust then hotels can't really make those moves. Alan Fuerstman, the founder and CEO of Montage said that they are building LEED certified hotels but echoed Klein's words that the biggest challenge for the hotels is energy use. Finding ways to be sustainable but still provide luxury is a big challenge. One method is to cut back on packaging or use more sustainable products (recycled plastic and paper, etc.) but being conscious of energy use is key for hotels.
How green was the Luxury Summit itself? There wasn't really a much of a nod to the world of green here. Fresh white pads of paper awaited all participants at the tables along with small bottles of bottled Fiji water (one of the conference sponsors) everywhere. Also the amount of printed materials in general for the conference was fairly large. Also the Four Seasons is luxurious but not very green, unless of course we are referring to the color of the perfectly trimmed grass on the grounds of the resort.
There seems to be a fair amount of speculation about just how long the green trend will last. Already stories of "green fatigue" are starting to hit the news. I've talked to people who have questioned just how passing a fancy this is, citing the 1970s as an era of eco-awareness which was followed quickly by the materialistic 1980s. I've also talked to people who firmly believe that green is no longer a method or a movement but is in fact the new reality. In the end, the companies will follow the needs of the customers, as long as they say stay green, companies will do their best to try and comply.
The green movement in luxury and the new philanthropy go hand in hand and have the same basic charge, finding a way to do good and do well. Unfortunately it's not quite as easy as it sounds. After all, the luxury consumer wants to have it all they want the feeling of being green and knowing they are doing something to combat climate change but they aren't really willing to give anything up. For the companies at the American Express Publishing Luxury Summit this week, green seems to be something that they are all wrestling with, wanting to satisfy a public clamoring for green but also knowing the customer expects the same level of performance and service as they have always enjoyed. While other tiers of the green market seem to be about compromise and perhaps restraint, luxury consumers want green and fabulous in the same package.Five years ago, green still meant "fringe" or perhaps "crunchy" but now green is everyone and everyone wants to be green. As Drew Slaven, the general manager of marketing services, for Mercedes Benz noted during his talk on the greening of luxury, consumers want all the performance features that they expect with a luxury brand and green features. And yet they are savvy enough to know when they are being greenwashed and fed eco-friendly messages without real weight. In fact, as Tom Schick, Executive Vice President Corporate Affairs and Communications, American Express warned while speaking on corporate social responsibility, trumpeting your good works with fancy ad campaigns can actually get a company in trouble. The sustainability moves a company chooses have to be genuine. For example, for American Express helping corporate clients understand their carbon footprint was a natural extension of their moves in the travel market.
Knowing where and how a product is made is an important part of the luxury green movement. In some cases this can extend the feeling of luxury and people are willing to pay more for it such as leather goods that are made in Italy. People are starting to look behind the label as an assurance that a product is made under certain conditions. Fair trade, organic and sustainable are new value-added buzzwords but they can also be good for the businesses too. Barbara Banke told of the new efforts by Jackson Family wines including sustainable agriculture, using GPS and other techniques to conserve water, collecting water for use later, building wineries and facilities that are LEED certified and the use of beneficial insects and wildlife (owls for catching mice). These are all steps that benefit the company and the environment but are also a value-added factor for consumers who want to know that the delicious wine they are drinking is made by a company that cares for the earth that produces the grapes.
One of the terms that I keep hearing about Web 2.0 is transparency and this also applies to the green factor of a product. Companies find themselves in a bit of a conundrum. They know they need to be green to appeal to customers but this can take time. Everyone wants organic these days but it can take several years for a product to be certified organic. Also when it comes to eco-friendly practices the customer also may have to be willing to at least compromise. I have to give an award for honesty to Jeff Klein, the passionate hotelier of the JK Hotel group, which is behind the fabulous Sunset Tower in Los Angeles. He spoke frankly about the "greening" of hotels. He explained that it is very hard to run a hotel in a green manner. For example, take the use of air conditioning in a tropical climate like Costa Rica, you can't really ask guests to not use air conditioning and be uncomfortable but obviously powering the air conditioning is a huge energy drain. You can find different ways to get the energy used but it has to not inconvenience the customer. He also debunked the theory of leaving your towel on the rack (you know, those little cards you see in hotels explaining that if you leave the towel on the rack they won't wash it) saying that overall hotels are still just washing as many towels. He also mentioned that for a time he was turning the lights off in hotel rooms to save energy but that customers complained that they didn't want to check in to a dark room so now the hotel leaves the lights on. He makes a good point that in the service industry especially part of the onus of being green has to be on the client too. If the client isn't willing to participate and adjust then hotels can't really make those moves. Alan Fuerstman, the founder and CEO of Montage said that they are building LEED certified hotels but echoed Klein's words that the biggest challenge for the hotels is energy use. Finding ways to be sustainable but still provide luxury is a big challenge. One method is to cut back on packaging or use more sustainable products (recycled plastic and paper, etc.) but being conscious of energy use is key for hotels.
How green was the Luxury Summit itself? There wasn't really a much of a nod to the world of green here. Fresh white pads of paper awaited all participants at the tables along with small bottles of bottled Fiji water (one of the conference sponsors) everywhere. Also the amount of printed materials in general for the conference was fairly large. Also the Four Seasons is luxurious but not very green, unless of course we are referring to the color of the perfectly trimmed grass on the grounds of the resort.
There seems to be a fair amount of speculation about just how long the green trend will last. Already stories of "green fatigue" are starting to hit the news. I've talked to people who have questioned just how passing a fancy this is, citing the 1970s as an era of eco-awareness which was followed quickly by the materialistic 1980s. I've also talked to people who firmly believe that green is no longer a method or a movement but is in fact the new reality. In the end, the companies will follow the needs of the customers, as long as they say stay green, companies will do their best to try and comply.
Another Utility wants to control your temperature
PG&E pays customers $25 to use SmartAC switch
As summer approaches, Pacific Gas and Electric Co. is encouraging customers to enroll in SmartAC, a program that allows the utility to adjust participants' central air conditioning systems in times of local emergencies or periods of peak usage.
PG&E will pay customers $25 for each air conditioner they enroll in SmartAC, which is open to residential and small business customers.
Participants can choose between a switch, which is installed near or outside of the air conditioning unit, or a new thermostat. Both are provided for free and are controlled remotely by PG&E through radio signals. Through the switch, PG&E would radio an air conditioner to cycle half as much as it would normally. Or it would direct the thermostat to raise the temperature by no more than 4 degrees, Sundays and holidays excepted.
Customers who have the thermostat also can control their heaters and air conditioners remotely through the site www.pge-smartac.com, where customers also can enroll. By enrolling, customers promise to remain in the program for 12 months.
Except during Stage III emergencies, participants can opt out of SmartAC temporarily by calling PG&E.
Stockton residents have been using Smart AC since February 2007. PG&E began signing up customers in the East Bay about nine months ago and has enrolled 11,000 residents so far, a spokesman said. The utility hopes to enroll 400,000 customers by the summer of 2011.
As summer approaches, Pacific Gas and Electric Co. is encouraging customers to enroll in SmartAC, a program that allows the utility to adjust participants' central air conditioning systems in times of local emergencies or periods of peak usage.
PG&E will pay customers $25 for each air conditioner they enroll in SmartAC, which is open to residential and small business customers.
Participants can choose between a switch, which is installed near or outside of the air conditioning unit, or a new thermostat. Both are provided for free and are controlled remotely by PG&E through radio signals. Through the switch, PG&E would radio an air conditioner to cycle half as much as it would normally. Or it would direct the thermostat to raise the temperature by no more than 4 degrees, Sundays and holidays excepted.
Customers who have the thermostat also can control their heaters and air conditioners remotely through the site www.pge-smartac.com, where customers also can enroll. By enrolling, customers promise to remain in the program for 12 months.
Except during Stage III emergencies, participants can opt out of SmartAC temporarily by calling PG&E.
Stockton residents have been using Smart AC since February 2007. PG&E began signing up customers in the East Bay about nine months ago and has enrolled 11,000 residents so far, a spokesman said. The utility hopes to enroll 400,000 customers by the summer of 2011.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Free Homeowners Protection Guide for Air Conditioning Repair
10 things I need to know when hiring a contractor
1. Are there employees drug tested and background checked:
Hiring statistics compiled by service companies who do drug test and background check tell us that on average those contactors have to interview 13 applicants to get one new hire, where do you think those other 12 guys are working. The top three trades being taught in our prison system are Electrical, HVAC and plumbing.
2. Are they a licensed contractor in your state/county:
Many contractors operate without a license, that means no insurance and no recourse for you if you are dissatisfied. In the event you should have a problem with a contractor your states board for licensing contractors is the first organization you should contact they will immediately take action to resolve the issue and if the contractor in question is licensed they will respond if they want to keep their license in tact.
3. What type of pricing do they have, i.e. time/material, flat rate, other:
Many companies are vague about their pricing or they charge by the hour giving them every incentive to take their time. GET THE PRICE BEFORE APPROVING ANY WORK. If a service provider is unwilling to price his work before proceeding then he is not confident in his ability and you should not be either. , contact another company immediately.
4.Are there any on time guarantees.
Contrary to popular opinion you should be able to find a contractor who will at least give you a time window when they will show up and the good ones will guarantee there arrival time. This is the number one complaint of consumers about service providers and a good customer service oriented company will address the issue and use it to add value to their service.
5. What are there repair guarantees?
Most companies will guarantee their repairs for thirty days but quality companies, (and there should be one or two in your area), will guarantee repairs for the cooling or heating season and possibly one year. The really good companies have limited lifetime guarantees on repairs but whatever the guarantee if the service person at your home does not know what his companies policies are or appears to not want to discuss the subject and put it in writing BEWARE.
6.What kind of equipment do they usually work on, i.e. appliances, refrigeration, residential or commercial.
If your air conditioner is broken call an air conditioning company, if your plumbing is broken call a plumber, etc. companies who advertise too many varied kinds of services often do not do any of them very well. When you need a heart transplant you do not go to a foot doctor, use the same logic for your home services.
7.Do they sell equipment and what brands?
If a service contractor does not sell a certain brand of equipment, they will probably have to buy repair parts at retail prices meaning you will pay more. Companies who sell certain brands have factory training available to their technicians. Manufacturers support their retailers with technical support from the factory allowing any repair or warranty issues to be resolved with a quick phone call.
8.How long have they been in business?
While time in business by itself is not a guarantee of quality, longevity is an indicator of a certain level of competence and stability. If a company is new to the industry and they did not come from a personal referral you will definitely want to get second opinions and bids.
9.What areas do they serve?
If your home or business is, too far from the main area of focus for a contractor the chances of a decrease in responsiveness and likelihood of the cost going up on your job increase. Many companies will have several phone numbers listed in the yellow pages to make potential customers believe they are located in several different areas when in reality all the numbers are going to the same office.
10.Are they willing to assist you over the phone?
Quality contractors know that nuisance calls happen and that showing up at your house for ten minutes and charging you $150 is not providing true customer service. Anyone who is interested in what is best for you and your long-term relationship with him or her will be glad to spend five minutes on the phone with you to walk you through a problem. If you ask to speak to a service person and they try to talk you into a service call that is a red flag.
Five questions to ask before approving any repair
1. How long is this repair guaranteed, if the service person is not willing to guarantee the repair for at least 30 days you should not approve the repair, a good company will guarantee any repair for at least the season. Exceptional companies, and they are rare, will guarantee their repairs for a year. The cream of the crop have guarantees for certain repairs for the life of the equipment.
2. Can I have the old parts. If the service person hesitates at this request that is a big red flag, you should be able to see exactly what is being replaced. Quality auto mechanics have done this for years because several garages had been caught charging customers for parts that were never replaced and the same thing happens in the home repair service industry.
3. How did we determine the cost. The service person should have no trouble explaining how the price was determined, if they cannot you should consider shopping around.
Each company will have a system of either time and material or flat rate
pricing and they should be able to explain to you which system they use and
why your repair falls into a certain category
4. Are these parts universal or oem (original equipment manufacturer). This question is very important if your equipment is under warranty and it may affect the pricing. Universal parts cost less and save money for the service company by cutting down on inventory, in most of the cases they are of inferior quality so you should make sure the company will guarantee them for at least a year.
OEM parts will keep your warrantees in tact and assure that another part of
The system does not have to be altered to accept a universal part.
5. How long are the new parts guaranteed. This question has a lot to do with #1 because if a fan motor or compressor is guaranteed for a year then the entire repair should be guaranteed similarly. There are a wide range of guarantees in the service industry and if your technician is not eager to talk about his companies guarantees that should be a cause for concern.
1. Are there employees drug tested and background checked:
Hiring statistics compiled by service companies who do drug test and background check tell us that on average those contactors have to interview 13 applicants to get one new hire, where do you think those other 12 guys are working. The top three trades being taught in our prison system are Electrical, HVAC and plumbing.
2. Are they a licensed contractor in your state/county:
Many contractors operate without a license, that means no insurance and no recourse for you if you are dissatisfied. In the event you should have a problem with a contractor your states board for licensing contractors is the first organization you should contact they will immediately take action to resolve the issue and if the contractor in question is licensed they will respond if they want to keep their license in tact.
3. What type of pricing do they have, i.e. time/material, flat rate, other:
Many companies are vague about their pricing or they charge by the hour giving them every incentive to take their time. GET THE PRICE BEFORE APPROVING ANY WORK. If a service provider is unwilling to price his work before proceeding then he is not confident in his ability and you should not be either. , contact another company immediately.
4.Are there any on time guarantees.
Contrary to popular opinion you should be able to find a contractor who will at least give you a time window when they will show up and the good ones will guarantee there arrival time. This is the number one complaint of consumers about service providers and a good customer service oriented company will address the issue and use it to add value to their service.
5. What are there repair guarantees?
Most companies will guarantee their repairs for thirty days but quality companies, (and there should be one or two in your area), will guarantee repairs for the cooling or heating season and possibly one year. The really good companies have limited lifetime guarantees on repairs but whatever the guarantee if the service person at your home does not know what his companies policies are or appears to not want to discuss the subject and put it in writing BEWARE.
6.What kind of equipment do they usually work on, i.e. appliances, refrigeration, residential or commercial.
If your air conditioner is broken call an air conditioning company, if your plumbing is broken call a plumber, etc. companies who advertise too many varied kinds of services often do not do any of them very well. When you need a heart transplant you do not go to a foot doctor, use the same logic for your home services.
7.Do they sell equipment and what brands?
If a service contractor does not sell a certain brand of equipment, they will probably have to buy repair parts at retail prices meaning you will pay more. Companies who sell certain brands have factory training available to their technicians. Manufacturers support their retailers with technical support from the factory allowing any repair or warranty issues to be resolved with a quick phone call.
8.How long have they been in business?
While time in business by itself is not a guarantee of quality, longevity is an indicator of a certain level of competence and stability. If a company is new to the industry and they did not come from a personal referral you will definitely want to get second opinions and bids.
9.What areas do they serve?
If your home or business is, too far from the main area of focus for a contractor the chances of a decrease in responsiveness and likelihood of the cost going up on your job increase. Many companies will have several phone numbers listed in the yellow pages to make potential customers believe they are located in several different areas when in reality all the numbers are going to the same office.
10.Are they willing to assist you over the phone?
Quality contractors know that nuisance calls happen and that showing up at your house for ten minutes and charging you $150 is not providing true customer service. Anyone who is interested in what is best for you and your long-term relationship with him or her will be glad to spend five minutes on the phone with you to walk you through a problem. If you ask to speak to a service person and they try to talk you into a service call that is a red flag.
Five questions to ask before approving any repair
1. How long is this repair guaranteed, if the service person is not willing to guarantee the repair for at least 30 days you should not approve the repair, a good company will guarantee any repair for at least the season. Exceptional companies, and they are rare, will guarantee their repairs for a year. The cream of the crop have guarantees for certain repairs for the life of the equipment.
2. Can I have the old parts. If the service person hesitates at this request that is a big red flag, you should be able to see exactly what is being replaced. Quality auto mechanics have done this for years because several garages had been caught charging customers for parts that were never replaced and the same thing happens in the home repair service industry.
3. How did we determine the cost. The service person should have no trouble explaining how the price was determined, if they cannot you should consider shopping around.
Each company will have a system of either time and material or flat rate
pricing and they should be able to explain to you which system they use and
why your repair falls into a certain category
4. Are these parts universal or oem (original equipment manufacturer). This question is very important if your equipment is under warranty and it may affect the pricing. Universal parts cost less and save money for the service company by cutting down on inventory, in most of the cases they are of inferior quality so you should make sure the company will guarantee them for at least a year.
OEM parts will keep your warrantees in tact and assure that another part of
The system does not have to be altered to accept a universal part.
5. How long are the new parts guaranteed. This question has a lot to do with #1 because if a fan motor or compressor is guaranteed for a year then the entire repair should be guaranteed similarly. There are a wide range of guarantees in the service industry and if your technician is not eager to talk about his companies guarantees that should be a cause for concern.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Air Conditioning Repair my coil is frezzing up
Refrigeration Problems
Some refrigeration problems can be due to lack of airflow, either from dirty filters or
dirty coils, as noted above. If the evaporator coil is freezing up, these are easy
preliminary checks to be made. Another cause of low airflow can be a belt / pulley
problem, if your equipment has this sort of motor / fan drive, as the belt may be slipping
and reducing the fan air output. This is easily fixed by tightening the belt, but you should
check your manual, as overtightening may reduce the life of the bearings.
However, the most common cause of freezing is probably a low refrigerant charge, as the
pressure of the refrigerant in the system determines the temperature, and a lower pressure
corresponds to a lower temperature. Over the years you may expect that some refrigerant
is lost through joints and fittings, particularly with an older system. Also, most
equipment is designed to be used in hot weather. If the outside temperature is not high,
say below 65ºF, but your system is still needing cooling because of high internal heat
loads, you may find that you get freezing, and this is a result of the equipment
manufacturer’s decisions for design of the unit.
Some refrigeration problems can be due to lack of airflow, either from dirty filters or
dirty coils, as noted above. If the evaporator coil is freezing up, these are easy
preliminary checks to be made. Another cause of low airflow can be a belt / pulley
problem, if your equipment has this sort of motor / fan drive, as the belt may be slipping
and reducing the fan air output. This is easily fixed by tightening the belt, but you should
check your manual, as overtightening may reduce the life of the bearings.
However, the most common cause of freezing is probably a low refrigerant charge, as the
pressure of the refrigerant in the system determines the temperature, and a lower pressure
corresponds to a lower temperature. Over the years you may expect that some refrigerant
is lost through joints and fittings, particularly with an older system. Also, most
equipment is designed to be used in hot weather. If the outside temperature is not high,
say below 65ºF, but your system is still needing cooling because of high internal heat
loads, you may find that you get freezing, and this is a result of the equipment
manufacturer’s decisions for design of the unit.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
Get ready for Air Conditioning Repair
Home maintenance tips for the spring
Although you have heard it many times, nothing could be more accurate than the old saying, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Preventive maintenance is the best way to keep your house in great shape, reduce the risk of unexpected repairs and maintain its value. Set aside time in the spring and fall to conduct a thorough examination of your home. You can do it all in one day, or spread it out over five weekends.
Start by making sure your home has curb appeal, then check the ventilation systems, control for moisture and pests, and finally conduct a home safety check.
Check the ventilation around your home
* Have a professional check your air conditioning system.
* Replace the filter now and again in three months.
* Check the caulking around doors and windows to make sure it is adequate.
* Install the screens on windows and doors.
* Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter.
Conduct a curb appeal inspection
* Make a quick inspection of the exterior of your home. Check the foundation for cracking, blocked vents and leaks.
* Observe the paint. If it is peeling, cracking, fading or blistering, you should repaint.
* Check the siding or brick. Crumbling brick or loose siding needs to be repaired.
* Clean off the deck and treat it with a protective finish if needed.
* Inspect driveways and walkways for safety hazards. Remove stains from concrete.
Protect against moisture and mold
* Check the caulking around kitchen and bathroom fixtures to make sure there are no leaks. Repair grout and caulk as needed.
* Inspect faucets and shower heads. Repair any leaks you find.
* Check water hoses on the washing machine, ice maker and dishwasher for cracks and bubbles. Replace if needed.
* Clean debris out of gutters and make sure downspouts are secure and direct water away from the foundation.
* Make sure there are no leaks in the roof.
* Trim shrubs and trees so that they clear the foundation, exterior walls and roof of the house. Shrubbery that is too close to the house can promote the growth of mildew, mold and algae during warmer weather.
* Examine the basement or crawlspace for the presence of mildew or mold. If mildew or mold is found, contact your county Extension office for information on controlling and preventing mold.
Get rid of the pests
* Clean leaves and trash out from under decks and porches.
* Remove debris from basement window wells.
* If you do not have termite service, have a professional termite inspection. Follow up on any recommendations. It will save you money in the long run.
* Check the attic for evidence of leaks, condensation and vermin.
Keep your home safe
* Replace the batteries in all of the smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms. If you don’t have smoke detectors, install them.
* Make sure your fire extinguishers are fully charged. Recharge if needed or purchase one if you do not currently own one.
Although you have heard it many times, nothing could be more accurate than the old saying, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Preventive maintenance is the best way to keep your house in great shape, reduce the risk of unexpected repairs and maintain its value. Set aside time in the spring and fall to conduct a thorough examination of your home. You can do it all in one day, or spread it out over five weekends.
Start by making sure your home has curb appeal, then check the ventilation systems, control for moisture and pests, and finally conduct a home safety check.
Check the ventilation around your home
* Have a professional check your air conditioning system.
* Replace the filter now and again in three months.
* Check the caulking around doors and windows to make sure it is adequate.
* Install the screens on windows and doors.
* Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter.
Conduct a curb appeal inspection
* Make a quick inspection of the exterior of your home. Check the foundation for cracking, blocked vents and leaks.
* Observe the paint. If it is peeling, cracking, fading or blistering, you should repaint.
* Check the siding or brick. Crumbling brick or loose siding needs to be repaired.
* Clean off the deck and treat it with a protective finish if needed.
* Inspect driveways and walkways for safety hazards. Remove stains from concrete.
Protect against moisture and mold
* Check the caulking around kitchen and bathroom fixtures to make sure there are no leaks. Repair grout and caulk as needed.
* Inspect faucets and shower heads. Repair any leaks you find.
* Check water hoses on the washing machine, ice maker and dishwasher for cracks and bubbles. Replace if needed.
* Clean debris out of gutters and make sure downspouts are secure and direct water away from the foundation.
* Make sure there are no leaks in the roof.
* Trim shrubs and trees so that they clear the foundation, exterior walls and roof of the house. Shrubbery that is too close to the house can promote the growth of mildew, mold and algae during warmer weather.
* Examine the basement or crawlspace for the presence of mildew or mold. If mildew or mold is found, contact your county Extension office for information on controlling and preventing mold.
Get rid of the pests
* Clean leaves and trash out from under decks and porches.
* Remove debris from basement window wells.
* If you do not have termite service, have a professional termite inspection. Follow up on any recommendations. It will save you money in the long run.
* Check the attic for evidence of leaks, condensation and vermin.
Keep your home safe
* Replace the batteries in all of the smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms. If you don’t have smoke detectors, install them.
* Make sure your fire extinguishers are fully charged. Recharge if needed or purchase one if you do not currently own one.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Going Green with Air Conditioning Pays
The cooldown: Energy-efficient air conditioners are easier on climate and your wallet
A true eco champ would suffer through this summer's sweltering heat in the name of conserving energy. But let's face it, most of us just don’t want to suffer the sweat. If you need to cool down, but can’t stand to contribute to the earth heating up, consider purchasing a newer, energy efficient unit.
If the past few years are any indication, this summer isn’t likely to be a cool one. 2007 tied with 1998 as Earth’s second-warmest year in a century, according to NASA, which ranks 2005 as number one. And the eight warmest years have all occurred in the past decade. April’s a good time to shop, as it’s still before summer’s first heat wave, which seems to come earlier each year and causes a run on the air conditioner dealers. By June there are fewer choices—and prices surge.
That said, if you care about the Earth and your budget, you’re right to be cautious about air conditioning, which, in summer, is responsible for all the electricity consumed in the US, according to the Rocky Mountain Institute. Our electricity still mostly comes from coal-burning power plants, and, lest anyone these days needs to be reminded, “the atmospheric buildup of CO2 and other greenhouse gases is largely the result of human activities, such as the burning of fossil fuels,” according to the EPA.
Here’s what to do.
Choose Energy-Star-rated models. Air conditioners bearing the EPA’s Energy Star label have to be at least 10% more efficient than conventional ones. There’s been a vast improvement in the past ten years, so it’s a good time to replace an older model, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, www.aceee.org. For a list of models, go to www.energystar.gov and click on Room ACs in the left-hand toolbar.
Consumer Reports recommends these Energy Star-rated models: Friedrich SS10L10-A ($700, EER: 12; 800-541-6645); GE AGM06LH ($180, EER: 10.7) and AGM08LH ($240, EER: 10.8; 800-626-2005); Frigidaire FAA067P7 ($150, EER: 10.7) and FAA087P7 ($180, EER: 10.8; 800-374-4432).
Turn off the AC when you go out or the weather’s cool, and keep your thermostat at 72 degrees or higher in warm weather. For every degree you turn it up, you’ll save 121 pounds of carbon emissions a year as well as reduce your electricity bill.
It’s tax time, and many states and utilities give tax credits of up to $75 for Energy Star rated air conditioners, and $1-3 for CLFs (hang onto those original sales receipts!) Check out what’s available in your state. Some states and utilities offer rebates for trade-ins of older units.
More energy-saving tips:
To ease the burden on your AC and electricity bill, close your blinds or curtains during peak sunlight/heat hours.
On a cold night or day with clean air, turn off AC and open your windows. Circulate fresh air into your house using fans.
Choose energy-efficient compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) and appliances (see list on Energy Star website) to reduce the amount of indoor waste heat produced by these devices.
Seal and caulk walls and windows to prevent cold-air leaks.
Relax! That also burns fewer calories (and generates less heat).
Now you can chill out without the guilt.
A true eco champ would suffer through this summer's sweltering heat in the name of conserving energy. But let's face it, most of us just don’t want to suffer the sweat. If you need to cool down, but can’t stand to contribute to the earth heating up, consider purchasing a newer, energy efficient unit.
If the past few years are any indication, this summer isn’t likely to be a cool one. 2007 tied with 1998 as Earth’s second-warmest year in a century, according to NASA, which ranks 2005 as number one. And the eight warmest years have all occurred in the past decade. April’s a good time to shop, as it’s still before summer’s first heat wave, which seems to come earlier each year and causes a run on the air conditioner dealers. By June there are fewer choices—and prices surge.
That said, if you care about the Earth and your budget, you’re right to be cautious about air conditioning, which, in summer, is responsible for all the electricity consumed in the US, according to the Rocky Mountain Institute. Our electricity still mostly comes from coal-burning power plants, and, lest anyone these days needs to be reminded, “the atmospheric buildup of CO2 and other greenhouse gases is largely the result of human activities, such as the burning of fossil fuels,” according to the EPA.
Here’s what to do.
Choose Energy-Star-rated models. Air conditioners bearing the EPA’s Energy Star label have to be at least 10% more efficient than conventional ones. There’s been a vast improvement in the past ten years, so it’s a good time to replace an older model, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, www.aceee.org. For a list of models, go to www.energystar.gov and click on Room ACs in the left-hand toolbar.
Consumer Reports recommends these Energy Star-rated models: Friedrich SS10L10-A ($700, EER: 12; 800-541-6645); GE AGM06LH ($180, EER: 10.7) and AGM08LH ($240, EER: 10.8; 800-626-2005); Frigidaire FAA067P7 ($150, EER: 10.7) and FAA087P7 ($180, EER: 10.8; 800-374-4432).
Turn off the AC when you go out or the weather’s cool, and keep your thermostat at 72 degrees or higher in warm weather. For every degree you turn it up, you’ll save 121 pounds of carbon emissions a year as well as reduce your electricity bill.
It’s tax time, and many states and utilities give tax credits of up to $75 for Energy Star rated air conditioners, and $1-3 for CLFs (hang onto those original sales receipts!) Check out what’s available in your state. Some states and utilities offer rebates for trade-ins of older units.
More energy-saving tips:
To ease the burden on your AC and electricity bill, close your blinds or curtains during peak sunlight/heat hours.
On a cold night or day with clean air, turn off AC and open your windows. Circulate fresh air into your house using fans.
Choose energy-efficient compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) and appliances (see list on Energy Star website) to reduce the amount of indoor waste heat produced by these devices.
Seal and caulk walls and windows to prevent cold-air leaks.
Relax! That also burns fewer calories (and generates less heat).
Now you can chill out without the guilt.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Air Conditioning Problems
The air conditioning in our new house doesn’t seem to work very well. What could be wrong ?
Problematic air-conditioning systems abound. According to a recent study, says Chris Green in Energy-Smart Homes (winter 2008, $ 8. 99, www. finehome building. com ), 95 percent of new air-conditioning installations fail in regard to operating efficiency, with more than 70 percent of systems improperly sized or installed.
Because air-conditioning systems integrate refrigeration, air distribution, and electronics, there are lots of opportunities for mistakes.
The top three reasons for poor air-conditioner performance are 1. Improper sizing (1. 5 to 2 times too large is common ).
2. Improper installation.
3. Poorly designed and installed duct systems. Heat naturally moves from a higher energy level (warm ) to a lower energy level (cool ). Heat that accumulates within a house will not leave on its own unless the heat sources (the sun, people, appliances ) are removed. Help comes in the form of air conditioning, which uses refrigeration combined with ventilation to push heat uphill, or move it outside, where it’s even warmer.
Residential air-conditioning systems are made up of indoor and outdoor units connected by a pair of pipes that circulate refrigerant in a loop. By manipulating pressure and temperature, the indoor unit absorbs heat by blowing warm indoor air over a cold coil. The heat is released to the outdoor unit, which houses a compressor (which compresses refrigerant and itself generates heat ) and a condenser coil and fan (which dissipates the heat to the outside ).
In addition to cooling, air conditioners serve another function: They dehumidify the air. In the same way that moisture condenses on the side of a cold soda can sitting outside on a hot day, air conditioners wring moisture from warm humid air as it is forced across the indoor unit’s cold evaporator coil. Once past the evaporator, cool dehumidified air is delivered to the rest of the house — unless there’s a problem. Approximately two-thirds of all residential air conditioners are too large. According to Bruce Harley, a heating, ventilating and air-conditioning consultant with Conservation Services Group in Westborough, Mass., oversize units will cool your house, but they’re not necessarily designed to run efficiently.
The first problem is that they dehumidify poorly. Oversize units satisfy the temperatures at the thermostat so quickly that only a little moisture has time to condense on the evaporator coil. This is known as short cycling, and it’s more of a problem in humid climates. If cycles are very short, moisture on the coil can evaporate back into the house before it drains away.
Second, air-conditioning units are least efficient when they start up. It can take 15 minutes to reach operating efficiency, so oversize units run more short cycles and more time is spent running in the least efficient part of the cycle. As a result they use more energy; costs to operate them run 20 percent to 30 percent higher than for a proper size system.
Finally, at an installed cost of around $ 1, 000 per ton, oversize systems cost more.
The right size system is not a rule-of-thumb amount derived from the square footage of a house. The most efficient way of calculating the proper size for a residential air-conditioning system is found in Air Conditioning Contractors of America’s Manual J — Residential Load Calculation by Hank Rutkowski. It’s a methodical approach to arrive at room-by-room cooling loads for sizing ducts and whole house systems.
Manual J takes into account solar-heat gains, which don’t peak in all rooms at the same time. It also includes the house’s orientation to the sun and shading, which greatly affect the cooling load as well as the insulation values of walls, ceilings and floors. Window types, locations and specifications as well as internal heat gains (people, lighting and appliances ) are figured in. Another reason for poorly performing systems is faulty installation — incorrect refrigerant levels, low airflow and poorly designed and installed duct systems.
Condenser units arrive from the factory with the correct amount of refrigerant for a given length of piping, usually 15 or 25 feet, to connect the indoor and outdoor units. Refrigerant levels often are wrong because the line length in the field can vary and technicians frequently don’t make adjustments according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
According to Armin Rudd of Boston-based Building Science Corp., if the levels are up to 20 percent low, there’s some loss of cooling. More than that causes an unacceptable loss of cooling along with frosting of the evaporator coil and eventual complete loss of cooling. If refrigerant levels are too high, there is again loss of cooling with possible damage to the compressor.
The speed and volume of air moving through air-conditioning systems is often incorrect, partly due to mismatched indoor and outdoor units, which occurs more often on retrofits than on new installations because only the exterior compressor / condenser unit typically is replaced. Also, airflow at the evaporator coil often is low because it usually isn’t tested, so no one actually knows what it is.
Fan speeds at the evaporator coil should be around 400 cubic feet per minute per ton of cooling capacity. Slightly lower fan speeds improve dehumidification.
Tied to airflow and directly affecting it are duct design and installation. Ducts are the least expensive part of the system and frequently are given short shrift. A properly designed duct system begins with determining the cooling load for each room (not based on square footage ) which can vary greatly. Duct runs need to be as short as possible and insulated, and should be installed within air-conditioned space. Ducts should also be sealed. Leaky ducts waste energy and might draw dust, spores or combustion gas from a gas appliance back into a house.
Problematic air-conditioning systems abound. According to a recent study, says Chris Green in Energy-Smart Homes (winter 2008, $ 8. 99, www. finehome building. com ), 95 percent of new air-conditioning installations fail in regard to operating efficiency, with more than 70 percent of systems improperly sized or installed.
Because air-conditioning systems integrate refrigeration, air distribution, and electronics, there are lots of opportunities for mistakes.
The top three reasons for poor air-conditioner performance are 1. Improper sizing (1. 5 to 2 times too large is common ).
2. Improper installation.
3. Poorly designed and installed duct systems. Heat naturally moves from a higher energy level (warm ) to a lower energy level (cool ). Heat that accumulates within a house will not leave on its own unless the heat sources (the sun, people, appliances ) are removed. Help comes in the form of air conditioning, which uses refrigeration combined with ventilation to push heat uphill, or move it outside, where it’s even warmer.
Residential air-conditioning systems are made up of indoor and outdoor units connected by a pair of pipes that circulate refrigerant in a loop. By manipulating pressure and temperature, the indoor unit absorbs heat by blowing warm indoor air over a cold coil. The heat is released to the outdoor unit, which houses a compressor (which compresses refrigerant and itself generates heat ) and a condenser coil and fan (which dissipates the heat to the outside ).
In addition to cooling, air conditioners serve another function: They dehumidify the air. In the same way that moisture condenses on the side of a cold soda can sitting outside on a hot day, air conditioners wring moisture from warm humid air as it is forced across the indoor unit’s cold evaporator coil. Once past the evaporator, cool dehumidified air is delivered to the rest of the house — unless there’s a problem. Approximately two-thirds of all residential air conditioners are too large. According to Bruce Harley, a heating, ventilating and air-conditioning consultant with Conservation Services Group in Westborough, Mass., oversize units will cool your house, but they’re not necessarily designed to run efficiently.
The first problem is that they dehumidify poorly. Oversize units satisfy the temperatures at the thermostat so quickly that only a little moisture has time to condense on the evaporator coil. This is known as short cycling, and it’s more of a problem in humid climates. If cycles are very short, moisture on the coil can evaporate back into the house before it drains away.
Second, air-conditioning units are least efficient when they start up. It can take 15 minutes to reach operating efficiency, so oversize units run more short cycles and more time is spent running in the least efficient part of the cycle. As a result they use more energy; costs to operate them run 20 percent to 30 percent higher than for a proper size system.
Finally, at an installed cost of around $ 1, 000 per ton, oversize systems cost more.
The right size system is not a rule-of-thumb amount derived from the square footage of a house. The most efficient way of calculating the proper size for a residential air-conditioning system is found in Air Conditioning Contractors of America’s Manual J — Residential Load Calculation by Hank Rutkowski. It’s a methodical approach to arrive at room-by-room cooling loads for sizing ducts and whole house systems.
Manual J takes into account solar-heat gains, which don’t peak in all rooms at the same time. It also includes the house’s orientation to the sun and shading, which greatly affect the cooling load as well as the insulation values of walls, ceilings and floors. Window types, locations and specifications as well as internal heat gains (people, lighting and appliances ) are figured in. Another reason for poorly performing systems is faulty installation — incorrect refrigerant levels, low airflow and poorly designed and installed duct systems.
Condenser units arrive from the factory with the correct amount of refrigerant for a given length of piping, usually 15 or 25 feet, to connect the indoor and outdoor units. Refrigerant levels often are wrong because the line length in the field can vary and technicians frequently don’t make adjustments according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
According to Armin Rudd of Boston-based Building Science Corp., if the levels are up to 20 percent low, there’s some loss of cooling. More than that causes an unacceptable loss of cooling along with frosting of the evaporator coil and eventual complete loss of cooling. If refrigerant levels are too high, there is again loss of cooling with possible damage to the compressor.
The speed and volume of air moving through air-conditioning systems is often incorrect, partly due to mismatched indoor and outdoor units, which occurs more often on retrofits than on new installations because only the exterior compressor / condenser unit typically is replaced. Also, airflow at the evaporator coil often is low because it usually isn’t tested, so no one actually knows what it is.
Fan speeds at the evaporator coil should be around 400 cubic feet per minute per ton of cooling capacity. Slightly lower fan speeds improve dehumidification.
Tied to airflow and directly affecting it are duct design and installation. Ducts are the least expensive part of the system and frequently are given short shrift. A properly designed duct system begins with determining the cooling load for each room (not based on square footage ) which can vary greatly. Duct runs need to be as short as possible and insulated, and should be installed within air-conditioned space. Ducts should also be sealed. Leaky ducts waste energy and might draw dust, spores or combustion gas from a gas appliance back into a house.
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Having an Ancient Air Conditioner is no reason to Celebrate
It hard to find this many people who are willing to brag publicly about losing money.
Check out these recent GardenWeb postings
Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 10:39
My Trane Executive Weathertron heat pump turned 21 years old in March. It is now of legal drinking age. I will celebrate with it tonight with a mixed drink or two. I hope that it doesn't get drunk and tries to take advantage of me (or vice-versa).
No problems in the 6 years since I have been in the house. The compressor motor overload did trip a few months ago because of a power outage. I clean the inside coil yearly with an evap coil cleaner and change pleated filters once/month religeously.
I will not replace it until it dies even though it is only a 7 SEER. I will have an emergency back-up plan for the summer - a 12,000 btu window shaker that I'll buy and keep in the shed just in case.
Follow-Up Postings:
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:02
My Janitor-troll just turned 25, still going strong.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by fsq4cw (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:22
I had to bury mine. It was the only way to get the efficiency I wanted. Just completing its 4th heating season, no problems, no maintenance (except filter changes).
Nordic ground-source DX.
SR
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 15:36
Did the Nordic system come with a cool horned helmet and war hammer?
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by davefr (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:08
I just replaced by 1979 Carrier Model 38BQ Heat Pump. It was still operating fine when I replaced it last month. It was mated with a 29 year old GE air handler and a 15 year old Am. Std. coil. I'm sure the efficiency was pretty low on the scale.
I also just about threw a 30 year birthday part for my electric hot water heater but it started leaking before the big event.
My main refrigerator is a 1949 GE and going strong. (mint cond.) I keep my beer in a 1930's GE Monitor Top and it's still going strong.
These old relics might not be all that efficient but they were built to last.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:24
Those old Moniter Tops are charged with sulpher dioxide, if you have a leak better call HAZMAT. But they do cool good and last virtually forever.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 22:50
Does anyone have an idea what SEER my 1979 GE A/C might be?
It's about 3 ton I think, but we are going to have it replaced despite the fact it still works. Last month's $445 elec. bill was too much (with the therm. set at 79F). Our average monthly elec. bill before had to turn on the A/C was $145, so just cooling cost us $300 last month. We have all CFLs and a front-load washer, so it must be the water heater and A/C that are killing us.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by vstech (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 23:32
ba, I think the 8 seer's came out in 86, yours is most likely a 5... how many compressors have been in there? I feel pretty confident that a new 13 even (the cheapest models currently offered) would drop your bill by over 150... if your house has not been updated since the 70's, you need good roof ventilation, proper attic insulation, and updated windows, and door seals. that ought to drop it another 50 or so/month...
John
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 1:19
As far as I know, this is the original compressor - as our about half the neighborhood's. GE made them to last!
We have R-11 fiberglass batt insulation in the walls, R-13 under living room floors, 4-6 inch loose fill fiberglass in the attic, but only single-pane windows. We are looking to improve insulation (closed-cell foam where poss.) and upgrade to triple-paned low-E windows. Ideally I'd like to look into a metal roof when that needs replacing.
I am interested in the possibility of a water-cooled A/C, but aside from Freus, there doesn't seem to be much out there in the residential market.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 7:14
Wow, one of my old posts.
In June, I replaced the old heat pump, even though it was still running, with a new 14 SEER Goodman. I said that I would not replace it, but Maryland electric rates shot up 65% thanks to de-regulation and no competeition.
Looking at my previous 2 electric bills, I have reduced my electricity consumption by 40% compared to the same time last year.
I bought the unit myself and paid a pro to install it. I saved almost $2k over brand XYZ.
Best of luck to you, Bargainacious.
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by keithtx (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 14:34
Just now changing out our Goodman heat pumps to these fancy Carrier Infinity 21 systems. The Goodmans are 1995 issue, so 12 yrs. old. A little noisy but they still ran fine. Tired of a leak no one could find. Very hard to find but it was a tiny leak in the evap. coil. Decided not to fix it and started pricing new systems.
Our house would get up to 85F upstairs even w/a $600 electric bill. So bye bye...old. Here comes 78F and lower electric bills ($0.12/kwh, $240 base bill w/o HVAC).
o
RE: Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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* Posted by annabelle_gardener (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 4:35
I have a 1931 GE monitor top refrigerator. Just got it. When tested it worked. However, only worked for an hour for me and now has to be turned on manually and then it turns off shortly thereafter.
Does anyone have any info, ideas, suggestions, or know of someone who is knowledgeable or who repairs these?
Puzzled.
Thanks!
o
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* Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 16:45
Take it to your local trade school.
They can have the students work on it and your cost is only the parts.
Boy that thing must suck up the kw's!!
best of luck to you.
And happy birthday to Gary's Goodman.
How did your utility bills look this winter?
o
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 22:58
My old post is re-visited again.
The new heat pump is going great. Winter $$ savings are not as much as summer since I can use up to 2000 kw/month in the winter. Most of that is the heat pump and the aux electric strips (which don't seem to run as much with the new heat pump). First winter with the new Goodman went very well.
Take care.
o
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* Posted by ryanhughes (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 23:36
Gary, out of sheer curiosity, what wholesale HVAC warehouses did you look into around our area (though I believe you bought it in PA, didn't you?)? Is there one for Trane/American Standard you checked out (do you think you could somehow get equipment from them?)? I think I recall you saying you priced an American Standard system for around $3k and was curious where this was.
Check out these recent GardenWeb postings
Happy Birthday Heat Pump - old enough to drink legally
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Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 10:39
My Trane Executive Weathertron heat pump turned 21 years old in March. It is now of legal drinking age. I will celebrate with it tonight with a mixed drink or two. I hope that it doesn't get drunk and tries to take advantage of me (or vice-versa).
No problems in the 6 years since I have been in the house. The compressor motor overload did trip a few months ago because of a power outage. I clean the inside coil yearly with an evap coil cleaner and change pleated filters once/month religeously.
I will not replace it until it dies even though it is only a 7 SEER. I will have an emergency back-up plan for the summer - a 12,000 btu window shaker that I'll buy and keep in the shed just in case.
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o
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:02
My Janitor-troll just turned 25, still going strong.
o
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* Posted by fsq4cw (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 11:22
I had to bury mine. It was the only way to get the efficiency I wanted. Just completing its 4th heating season, no problems, no maintenance (except filter changes).
Nordic ground-source DX.
SR
o
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 15:36
Did the Nordic system come with a cool horned helmet and war hammer?
o
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* Posted by davefr (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:08
I just replaced by 1979 Carrier Model 38BQ Heat Pump. It was still operating fine when I replaced it last month. It was mated with a 29 year old GE air handler and a 15 year old Am. Std. coil. I'm sure the efficiency was pretty low on the scale.
I also just about threw a 30 year birthday part for my electric hot water heater but it started leaking before the big event.
My main refrigerator is a 1949 GE and going strong. (mint cond.) I keep my beer in a 1930's GE Monitor Top and it's still going strong.
These old relics might not be all that efficient but they were built to last.
o
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* Posted by blacknumber1 (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 21, 07 at 19:24
Those old Moniter Tops are charged with sulpher dioxide, if you have a leak better call HAZMAT. But they do cool good and last virtually forever.
o
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 22:50
Does anyone have an idea what SEER my 1979 GE A/C might be?
It's about 3 ton I think, but we are going to have it replaced despite the fact it still works. Last month's $445 elec. bill was too much (with the therm. set at 79F). Our average monthly elec. bill before had to turn on the A/C was $145, so just cooling cost us $300 last month. We have all CFLs and a front-load washer, so it must be the water heater and A/C that are killing us.
o
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* Posted by vstech (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 23:32
ba, I think the 8 seer's came out in 86, yours is most likely a 5... how many compressors have been in there? I feel pretty confident that a new 13 even (the cheapest models currently offered) would drop your bill by over 150... if your house has not been updated since the 70's, you need good roof ventilation, proper attic insulation, and updated windows, and door seals. that ought to drop it another 50 or so/month...
John
o
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* Posted by bargainacious (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 1:19
As far as I know, this is the original compressor - as our about half the neighborhood's. GE made them to last!
We have R-11 fiberglass batt insulation in the walls, R-13 under living room floors, 4-6 inch loose fill fiberglass in the attic, but only single-pane windows. We are looking to improve insulation (closed-cell foam where poss.) and upgrade to triple-paned low-E windows. Ideally I'd like to look into a metal roof when that needs replacing.
I am interested in the possibility of a water-cooled A/C, but aside from Freus, there doesn't seem to be much out there in the residential market.
o
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 7:14
Wow, one of my old posts.
In June, I replaced the old heat pump, even though it was still running, with a new 14 SEER Goodman. I said that I would not replace it, but Maryland electric rates shot up 65% thanks to de-regulation and no competeition.
Looking at my previous 2 electric bills, I have reduced my electricity consumption by 40% compared to the same time last year.
I bought the unit myself and paid a pro to install it. I saved almost $2k over brand XYZ.
Best of luck to you, Bargainacious.
o
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* Posted by keithtx (My Page) on
Fri, Sep 21, 07 at 14:34
Just now changing out our Goodman heat pumps to these fancy Carrier Infinity 21 systems. The Goodmans are 1995 issue, so 12 yrs. old. A little noisy but they still ran fine. Tired of a leak no one could find. Very hard to find but it was a tiny leak in the evap. coil. Decided not to fix it and started pricing new systems.
Our house would get up to 85F upstairs even w/a $600 electric bill. So bye bye...old. Here comes 78F and lower electric bills ($0.12/kwh, $240 base bill w/o HVAC).
o
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* Posted by annabelle_gardener (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 4:35
I have a 1931 GE monitor top refrigerator. Just got it. When tested it worked. However, only worked for an hour for me and now has to be turned on manually and then it turns off shortly thereafter.
Does anyone have any info, ideas, suggestions, or know of someone who is knowledgeable or who repairs these?
Puzzled.
Thanks!
o
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* Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 16:45
Take it to your local trade school.
They can have the students work on it and your cost is only the parts.
Boy that thing must suck up the kw's!!
best of luck to you.
And happy birthday to Gary's Goodman.
How did your utility bills look this winter?
o
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* Posted by garyg (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 22:58
My old post is re-visited again.
The new heat pump is going great. Winter $$ savings are not as much as summer since I can use up to 2000 kw/month in the winter. Most of that is the heat pump and the aux electric strips (which don't seem to run as much with the new heat pump). First winter with the new Goodman went very well.
Take care.
o
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* Posted by ryanhughes (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 5, 08 at 23:36
Gary, out of sheer curiosity, what wholesale HVAC warehouses did you look into around our area (though I believe you bought it in PA, didn't you?)? Is there one for Trane/American Standard you checked out (do you think you could somehow get equipment from them?)? I think I recall you saying you priced an American Standard system for around $3k and was curious where this was.
Friday, April 4, 2008
Now they want to control your Temperature
Wanted: Residents to let utility control A/C
Thermostats to be remote-controlled
Metro area homeowners who use more electricity than the average customer and who have central air conditioning can expect an offer from Toledo Edison to regulate their thermostats.
The company will install a $250 thermostat for free and set programmable temperatures for the owner, with the condition that the utility can adjust the device remotely to raise indoor temperatures and save on air conditioning use.
The invitation is part of a wider program by Toledo Edison's parent FirstEnergy Corp. to control energy use. It will be offered to people who use an average of 1,000 kilowatt-hours a month and will enable the company to adjust the thermostat without warning for up to four hours and for up to four degrees.
The primary need is during hot summer months when businesses and homeowners have air conditioning cranked up, taxing the electric delivery system.
While critics argue the pro-gram has a "Big Brother" image, advocates say the program helps the environment and lowers utility bills.
"If it's for the greater good of saving energy I'm all for it," said Toledoan Brian Yourist. "Anything to lower my energy bill."
There is no cost to the customer. Toledo Edison will limit its own thermostat adjustments to 20 per year, the company said. It will allow the owner to change the thermostat at any time, even after a utility adjustment, and to make changes to it via the Internet.
It was unclear how many customers were being asked to participate.
FirstEnergy has had 2,500 customers join in Cleveland and Akron.
The Toledo program will begin in April as invitations have been sent out. Toledo Edison has 315,000 customers, who average 750 kilowatt-hours per month.
FirstEnergy spokesman Mark Durbin said the goal is to have 10,000 participate statewide. The system can help control home temperatures from the workplace, vacation destination, or in cases of emergency, leading to energy conservation.
The same controls are available through a programmable thermostat bought in a store and installed by the homeowner, although that one wouldn't be connect to the utility's system.
The electric company has had to impose brownouts and blackouts in the past, particularly to businesses that enjoy a lower electricity rate for the right to have power cut off during peak summer months.
The program comes in the last year in which FirstEnergy is to have regulated electric rates.
It has a pending request to raise its basic electricity distribution rate and the governor, state legislature, and others are trying to determine whether costs to generate power should continue to have any regulation after this year.
Duke Energy, a utility company in southwest Ohio, provides a similar service, and that has reduced energy use.
Ten percent of its eligible customers participate, a spokesman said.
The Ohio Consumers' Counsel, a watchdog agency, backs the system.
"This is a good program for consumers to be able to take control of how much energy they're using," said spokesman Anthony Dill.
"We've made sure there are guidelines [to protect customers]."
Thermostats to be remote-controlled
Metro area homeowners who use more electricity than the average customer and who have central air conditioning can expect an offer from Toledo Edison to regulate their thermostats.
The company will install a $250 thermostat for free and set programmable temperatures for the owner, with the condition that the utility can adjust the device remotely to raise indoor temperatures and save on air conditioning use.
The invitation is part of a wider program by Toledo Edison's parent FirstEnergy Corp. to control energy use. It will be offered to people who use an average of 1,000 kilowatt-hours a month and will enable the company to adjust the thermostat without warning for up to four hours and for up to four degrees.
The primary need is during hot summer months when businesses and homeowners have air conditioning cranked up, taxing the electric delivery system.
While critics argue the pro-gram has a "Big Brother" image, advocates say the program helps the environment and lowers utility bills.
"If it's for the greater good of saving energy I'm all for it," said Toledoan Brian Yourist. "Anything to lower my energy bill."
There is no cost to the customer. Toledo Edison will limit its own thermostat adjustments to 20 per year, the company said. It will allow the owner to change the thermostat at any time, even after a utility adjustment, and to make changes to it via the Internet.
It was unclear how many customers were being asked to participate.
FirstEnergy has had 2,500 customers join in Cleveland and Akron.
The Toledo program will begin in April as invitations have been sent out. Toledo Edison has 315,000 customers, who average 750 kilowatt-hours per month.
FirstEnergy spokesman Mark Durbin said the goal is to have 10,000 participate statewide. The system can help control home temperatures from the workplace, vacation destination, or in cases of emergency, leading to energy conservation.
The same controls are available through a programmable thermostat bought in a store and installed by the homeowner, although that one wouldn't be connect to the utility's system.
The electric company has had to impose brownouts and blackouts in the past, particularly to businesses that enjoy a lower electricity rate for the right to have power cut off during peak summer months.
The program comes in the last year in which FirstEnergy is to have regulated electric rates.
It has a pending request to raise its basic electricity distribution rate and the governor, state legislature, and others are trying to determine whether costs to generate power should continue to have any regulation after this year.
Duke Energy, a utility company in southwest Ohio, provides a similar service, and that has reduced energy use.
Ten percent of its eligible customers participate, a spokesman said.
The Ohio Consumers' Counsel, a watchdog agency, backs the system.
"This is a good program for consumers to be able to take control of how much energy they're using," said spokesman Anthony Dill.
"We've made sure there are guidelines [to protect customers]."
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Considering Green don't forget your AC
Keep Your Cool and Save Energy
ATLANTA, April 1 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ -- It's no secret that rising energy costs have caused consumers and businesses to conserve energy more than ever before, but what most don't know is that transportation is not the most energy-guzzling sector in the United States -- buildings are.
Accounting for 40 percent of energy use in the United States, buildings represent a significant potential for reducing energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, according to the Atlanta-based American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE).
"We actually have the technology right now to substantially reduce energy consumption through buildings, all the way down to net-zero-energy," says ASHRAE President Kent Peterson. "It's up to building owners to realize the power to help ensure our nation's energy independence is in their hands."
While most people can't directly impact commercial energy use, many can take steps at home to reduce their energy consumption as the summer months arrive.
-- Dial up. When the home is occupied during the day, set the temperature at 76 degrees or above, and move it a few degrees higher at night while sleeping. Programmable thermostats can do this automatically and easily.
-- Mind the ventilation. Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans wisely. In just one hour, these fans can pull out a houseful of cooled air. Install a timer switch instead of a manual switch to limit the time an exhaust fan is on.
-- Cover up. In warmer months, close the drapes or shades on the east, south, and west windows during the day to prevent the sun's energy from heating the room. The shade or drapery material should be reflective on the side facing the window.
-- Duct, duct, loose? Have air ducts checked for leaks and holes. If you use duct tape to repair and seal your ducts, use tape with the Underwriter's Lab logo so it doesn't degrade, crack or lose its bond with age.
-- Get some shade. Shading from overhangs, awnings, exterior shades, shade screens and foliage can reduce heat entering the house, especially on east and west windows. While you are outside, make sure that landscaping isn't too close to the outdoor air-conditioning unit, as it may block airflow that is necessary for efficiency.
-- Clean up. Clean or change furnace filters every one to two months and have the system maintained according to manufacturer's instructions. Dirty filters, coils and fans reduce airflow throughout the system, which decreases performance and can damage your system.
-- Insulate. Adding insulation to your attic is the easiest and least expensive way to increase insulation. Insulation can be blown into wall cavities, especially in older homes. If siding is to be replaced, take the opportunity to add a layer of exterior insulation.
-- Keep your cool. Caulk, install weather stripping or use spray-in foams around windows and doors, on exterior walls, or between cooled and unconditioned spaces such as garages, basements and crawl spaces to keep conditioned air in.
ATLANTA, April 1 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ -- It's no secret that rising energy costs have caused consumers and businesses to conserve energy more than ever before, but what most don't know is that transportation is not the most energy-guzzling sector in the United States -- buildings are.
Accounting for 40 percent of energy use in the United States, buildings represent a significant potential for reducing energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, according to the Atlanta-based American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE).
"We actually have the technology right now to substantially reduce energy consumption through buildings, all the way down to net-zero-energy," says ASHRAE President Kent Peterson. "It's up to building owners to realize the power to help ensure our nation's energy independence is in their hands."
While most people can't directly impact commercial energy use, many can take steps at home to reduce their energy consumption as the summer months arrive.
-- Dial up. When the home is occupied during the day, set the temperature at 76 degrees or above, and move it a few degrees higher at night while sleeping. Programmable thermostats can do this automatically and easily.
-- Mind the ventilation. Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans wisely. In just one hour, these fans can pull out a houseful of cooled air. Install a timer switch instead of a manual switch to limit the time an exhaust fan is on.
-- Cover up. In warmer months, close the drapes or shades on the east, south, and west windows during the day to prevent the sun's energy from heating the room. The shade or drapery material should be reflective on the side facing the window.
-- Duct, duct, loose? Have air ducts checked for leaks and holes. If you use duct tape to repair and seal your ducts, use tape with the Underwriter's Lab logo so it doesn't degrade, crack or lose its bond with age.
-- Get some shade. Shading from overhangs, awnings, exterior shades, shade screens and foliage can reduce heat entering the house, especially on east and west windows. While you are outside, make sure that landscaping isn't too close to the outdoor air-conditioning unit, as it may block airflow that is necessary for efficiency.
-- Clean up. Clean or change furnace filters every one to two months and have the system maintained according to manufacturer's instructions. Dirty filters, coils and fans reduce airflow throughout the system, which decreases performance and can damage your system.
-- Insulate. Adding insulation to your attic is the easiest and least expensive way to increase insulation. Insulation can be blown into wall cavities, especially in older homes. If siding is to be replaced, take the opportunity to add a layer of exterior insulation.
-- Keep your cool. Caulk, install weather stripping or use spray-in foams around windows and doors, on exterior walls, or between cooled and unconditioned spaces such as garages, basements and crawl spaces to keep conditioned air in.
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Easy inexpensive ways to save all summer
Eight steps to take now to save air-conditioning dollars this summer
Why wait until the middle of sweaty August to despair about the size of your electric bill? Take steps now to knock down the cost of chillin' in the crib.
1. Install ceiling fans. A good ceiling fan can help you delay the need to flip on the a/c, and allows you to stay comfortable at higher temperatures. The cost difference between maintaining my a/c at our usual 72 degrees and raising it to 76 degrees is around 3% per degree, so on our $237 bill from last August, I could have saved almost $30. Best of all, a good ceiling fan lasts for years and years.
2. Check your ceiling insulation. The cool spring is a great time to beef up your attic blanket. Wait until summer and you'll find out what a turkey experiences on Thanksgiving morning.
3. Plant deciduous trees to shade the western/southern side of your house.
4. Check your windows and doors for insulation leaks, using a stick of incense or a smoke stick. Turn off the furnace and all fans, close all windows and doors, then suss out those money-squandering leaks.
5. Clean your outside a/c condenser unit. The last time I had to call the HVAC guy to our house, I learned, to my embarrassment, that the new venting location for our dryer was blowing fuffa directly onto the a/c unit. Duh!
6. Replace your furnace filter. Buy a dozen so that you're set to replace them monthly during the summer. Otherwise, your a/c unit will be trying to breathe through a straw.
7. Consider installing a house exhaust fan. These units, usually installed in the top floor ceiling, are designed to exhaust the hot air from your house and pull cool night air in through open windows to cool the place down.
8. Make sure window treatments will block sunlight. The newer style of cellular blinds are reasonably priced and give a great deal of insulation.
Why wait until the middle of sweaty August to despair about the size of your electric bill? Take steps now to knock down the cost of chillin' in the crib.
1. Install ceiling fans. A good ceiling fan can help you delay the need to flip on the a/c, and allows you to stay comfortable at higher temperatures. The cost difference between maintaining my a/c at our usual 72 degrees and raising it to 76 degrees is around 3% per degree, so on our $237 bill from last August, I could have saved almost $30. Best of all, a good ceiling fan lasts for years and years.
2. Check your ceiling insulation. The cool spring is a great time to beef up your attic blanket. Wait until summer and you'll find out what a turkey experiences on Thanksgiving morning.
3. Plant deciduous trees to shade the western/southern side of your house.
4. Check your windows and doors for insulation leaks, using a stick of incense or a smoke stick. Turn off the furnace and all fans, close all windows and doors, then suss out those money-squandering leaks.
5. Clean your outside a/c condenser unit. The last time I had to call the HVAC guy to our house, I learned, to my embarrassment, that the new venting location for our dryer was blowing fuffa directly onto the a/c unit. Duh!
6. Replace your furnace filter. Buy a dozen so that you're set to replace them monthly during the summer. Otherwise, your a/c unit will be trying to breathe through a straw.
7. Consider installing a house exhaust fan. These units, usually installed in the top floor ceiling, are designed to exhaust the hot air from your house and pull cool night air in through open windows to cool the place down.
8. Make sure window treatments will block sunlight. The newer style of cellular blinds are reasonably priced and give a great deal of insulation.
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